Gamefisher 7.5 HP

artesian

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Jul 19, 2013
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Fighting with my gamefisher and now at a loss. Cleaned out the carb thoroughly and got it back on the motor. The engine will fire some but now there is gas coming out of one the holes in the top of the carb. I'm thinking this has something to do with the needle not sitting right on the seat but I for the life of me can't figure it out. One thing I'm not sure about is if the clip on the needle rests on the float or does it thread in what looks to be a clip spot on it. I am open to any ideas and can post some pics of the place where the gas is coming out and or the needle clip if that helps. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I just want to get on the water this year to get some crabbing in. :joyous:
 

artesian

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Jul 19, 2013
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Forgot to mention that I did find a small tear in the duckbill insert but I'm not sure if that happened in the 72 times i took it apart.:facepalm: I am waiting on that part in the mail. Saw someone else mention on another thread that the needle clip opening should face towards the choke side
 

artesian

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Jul 19, 2013
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Looks like I have cobbled just enough info from the other threads. The 2 and 8 position of the duckbill and the needle clip did it perfect. Now for the water test Sunday to see if it holds up
 

Wakko

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Jul 16, 2013
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Cool. I'm watching your thread for educationional purposes...just picked one up yesterday that needs a going through.
 

artesian

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Jul 19, 2013
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

So much for that. Back to gas coming out of the top of the card. Guess I will try a new needle and seat
 

MahtyMaht

Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 7, 2010
Messages
605
Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Sure sounds like the needle isn't stopping fuel flow when the carb is full. You don't post a model number, so who knows which config you got, but if you have a viton seat and aluminum needle, the seat goes in grooved face first, and the float should be set for an 11/64" space between float and carb casting. Besure you have all the old seat out, too.
 

artesian

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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

thanks Maht. Does 217-5886 sound like a valid model? I'm looking at the tag that had the serial # on it
 

artesian

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Jul 19, 2013
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

will need to look closer to see if some of the #'s wore off

Nope the one i posted is what's on the tag
 
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Wakko

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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Head unit is, leg is water cooled due to the exhaust going through it.
 

artesian

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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

IMG_20130801_170743_546.jpgIMG_20130801_170806_493.jpg

Im a bit confused. My shaft looks like one piece right to the lower. Where would the impeller be? The diagrams I looked at online don't look the same to me.

Back on carb.
Replaced needle and seat and gasket to motor. Fired up with no signs of leaks. Will run on and off for next couple days but i hope this is it
 
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MahtyMaht

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Messages
605
Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Some had impellers, some had water tubes in the exhaust port behind the prop. Top end is air cooled, bottom end of the engine,(crank and crank seals are water cooled. You need to identify the model, and if not the motor model, the at least the Tecumseh engine model.
 

artesian

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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Some had impellers, some had water tubes in the exhaust port behind the prop. Top end is air cooled, bottom end of the engine,(crank and crank seals are water cooled. You need to identify the model, and if not the motor model, the at least the Tecumseh engine model.

this is this all i have 217-586751

Where else can i find the info?
I am having a hell of a time dropping the lower. Looks like my shift lever is stuck in forward and will not do anything.
I'm watching Wakkos other thread to determine how to change the oil also.
 

MahtyMaht

Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 7, 2010
Messages
605
Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

The 217-586751 number can beplugged in here;

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

You can see 'sploded views there, and get part numbers. Get parts from here;

Results for Eska - Sears / Ted Wms

or call these guys with part numbers;

VinParts

You have to separate the shift linkage before the lower will drop, and there's a two screw oval plate on the side of the leg that covers the joint in the linkage. Pull the plate, yank the bolt, and the lower will drop.The splined drive shaft will come out with the lower. Don't forget the inpeller drive pin when you order the impeller, they tend to go away over time. When you re-assemble, put the engine on the floor upside down with the lower in neutral, and get the water tube started into the engine. Then start the splined end of the drive shaft into th end of the crank. The trick now is to get the water tube into the lower unit. I have used a piece of copper 12 ga wire formed into a 'j' shape, slipped in thru the exhaust port, and hooked the water tube to jig it around. Then when the tube is started, I can pull the wire straught to get it out.Next, you'll re-connect the linkage with the shift lever in neutral. That joint under the two screw plate is also an adjustment, so you can tweak it to get it right. Some like to plug the lower into the engine in forward, because it enables them to use the prop to turn the driveshaft to start it into the crank. If you do, just put the shift lever in forward when you reconnect the linkage. Make sure the water tube is clear while you're at all this, dirt dobbers love them.
 

Wakko

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 16, 2013
Messages
48
Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Good tips, thanks MahtyMaht. I emailed Diane from Vinparts today..my tension bolt and one of my clamps is bent, and I'm sure my carb needs a rebuild. Still hoping to get in the water this weekend.
 

artesian

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Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
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Re: Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Think I'm mailing it on on this motor. Every time I get it going something else goes on my. I'm back to where the carb is spitting out gas from the top weep hole. Putting it up on craigslist and will start looking for another. Really bummed but fixing this one might be beyond my skill set
 
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