Re: Gasket seal ???
Shooter26.... The older type head gaskets that obviously have no coating, and are somewhat porous, you would coat with oil but nothing else. Also do not ever use any kind of sealer on intake manifold gaskets or anything pertaining to carburetion. Use (if needed) oil only.<br /><br />If any of those gaskets have a shinny like appearance such as they have been factory coated with some substance, use nothing. That substance is used on many gaskets and seals by itself with the engine temperature. <br /><br />If, on the other hand, (other than head gaskets & carburetion as mention above), the gaskets appear to be normal looking gaskets, use what is called "Gasket Sealer" which is available at any reliable auto parts type store (and many other sources). Use the type that comes in a can and has a small brush attached to its screw off cap. <br /><br />On "O" Rings, spagetti seal, surface to surface contacts (water pump hsg to plate,bare plate to lower unit, etc), I have found it best to use either "OMC Adhesive M" (available at any OMC dealership) or its equivalent which is "Marprox Sealer 1000" which should be available at any automotive parts store. The Sealer 1000 may be available under other mfgs such as Boat Armor, but it will always be listed as "Sealer 1000".<br /><br />The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. Nothing else will do!<br /><br />I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
