Glue vs clip VP SX exhaust bellows

[Khris Kraft]

I seem to be getting different opinions on the replacement technique of exhaust bellows on 99 VP SX drive. This drive was serviced 2 years ago ( gimble bearing & bellows exhaust bellows & pressure tested) Buy a dealer. I change the fluid each year and today noticed a long tear in my exhaust bellows. I was in there sanding and cleaning for spring painting yesterday. So I undid the clamp on the engine side and pulled the bellows off the exhaust sleeve. I then pryed the drive side off knowing the clip was there and knowing a new clip was coming with the new bellows. My question is... is it possible to install that bellows with out pulling the drive yet still using the clip...or as some of the local marina "dock experts" claim they just goop up the drive side with adhesive and between the step on the bellows and the adhesive it works fine. I have never pulled a drive before and worried about getting in a situation upon reinstalling it. I did watch a few videos on the process but still wondering if option #2 (adhesive & no clip) will work. Spring is here and every service place is booked of course. Your opinions and answers are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[bruceb58]

You should be pulling your drive every year anyway! If all I had was a tear, I wouldn't even bother replacing it to be honest

 

[Khris Kraft]

Well the bellows is off now and I would like to get one back on. I know I should learn to take the drive off but I only can find 1 video on it and it's not the same drive. Also my manual I have on it is pretty vague.

 

[Scott Danforth]

factory manual is spot on. if you have a clymer or chilton manual, you have knee pads to use when you get a real manual and pull the drive.

 

[Lou C]

pulling a VP SX is very similar to pulling any other, you need to know if it should be in neutral or in gear and I recommend the use of a drive jack and an alignment tool. I would just install the exhaust bellows with the snap ring instead of what was suggested. If you're going to own this boat a while these tools will pay for themselves in about 2 years max.

 

[Khris Kraft]

pulling a VP SX is very similar to pulling any other, you need to know if it should be in neutral or in gear and I recommend the use of a drive jack and an alignment tool. I would just install the exhaust bellows with the snap ring instead of what was suggested. If you're going to own this boat a while these tools will pay for themselves in about 2 years max.

Thanks. I plan to do this myself now. Going to build my little rolling stand and I think my manual is Secor or something like that. I need a better manual. Mine is vague. I sprayed all the bolts this morning with PB blaster. Tomorrow I will travel to the largest VP dealer in my state to buy all the correct parts / gaskets etc.
I will buy the replacement nuts the gimbal bearing & bellows..the exhaust bellows and snap ring. The water gasket and the shaft o rings. Anything else I need?

 

[bruceb58]

pulling a VP SX is very similar to pulling any other, you need to know if it should be in neutral or in gear

It doesn't matter if its neutral or in gear. You just have to take the cable off of the linkage.

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks. I plan to do this myself now. Going to build my little rolling stand and I think my manual is Secor or something like that. I need a better manual. Mine is vague. I sprayed all the bolts this morning with PB blaster. Tomorrow I will travel to the largest VP dealer in my state to buy all the correct parts / gaskets etc.
I will buy the replacement nuts the gimbal bearing & bellows..the exhaust bellows and snap ring. The water gasket and the shaft o rings. Anything else I need?

Its easier to take off the nuts with a universal joint. I just use a socket that already has a universal built into it.

While you have the drive off, you should check the alignment with an alignment tool. You can buy them on eBay.

You should change the gear oil if you haven't already. There are 3 o-rings you need to buy for the plugs.

 

[Khris Kraft]

Thanks everyone. I loosened the 6 nuts today with a universal and a 7/8 socket. Did not remove them completely because it was getting dark and I had not made my cart yet. The drive moved immediately and wanted to fall off if I had removed the nuts ...which of course is a good thing! I loosened them to see if I was in for a fight getting this off and like I said it wanted to fly off on its own! I was / am very happy about that. I then built my rolling cart and the drive is sitting on it waiting for tomorrow so I can remove the shifter cable and the nuts then roll it out. I'm going to try to do everything. Gimbal bearing / seals / gaskets / 2 bellows / clean it sand it paint everything with interlux 33 spray can bottom paint. I paint it every year with that as the boat lives in a slip with light brackish water. More fresh than salt. About 80% fresh and 20% salt if even that. So I will try to upload a picture as I go and will keep looking here for all your suggestions / advice and hints. Thanks for holding my hand on this.

 

[bruceb58]

I have links to the LK manuals if you would like them. One model earlier than yours likely

In order to do the bellows, at least the u-joint bellows, you will need a 1/2Hex drive to remove the pivot joints for the pivot housing.

 

[Khris Kraft]

I have links to the LK manuals if you would like them. One model earlier than yours likely

In order to do the bellows, at least the u-joint bellows, you will need a 1/2Hex drive to remove the pivot joints for the pivot housing.

I would love the links thank you. And yes I read somewhere that I needed a 1/2 inch hex so I bought one today. Also finally had time to just pull the outdrive off and get it in the garage b4 dark. Tomorrow I hope to buy every part I need after taking a road trip to a large dealer. On another note and sadly I found about 2 teaspoons of water on the bottom of the drive bellows. Nothing was rusted but still can't ignore the water. I think I will attempt to change the gimbal bearing and the bellows even though I really only went in for the exhaust bellows replacement. I need an engine alignment tool and a complete list of every part and gasket I need along with all the correct reassembly lube. Thankfully my universals have fittings on them to lube. My gimbal bearing and seal were replaced 2 seasons ago.. guess I will change it again. Below are some pics today. Thanks and will be looking forward to your links and if anyone has a parts list that's good also. I'm getting there!

 

[bruceb58]

I would love the links thank you.

sent

You are lucky you only had so little water. You may have dodged a bullet.

 

[Khris Kraft]

sent

You are lucky you only had so little water. You may have dodged a bullet.

Ok ... but was it possible for it to have been full of water? The water I had was just enough to sit level with the ribs on the bottom of the bellows. Honestly 2 days ago when I loosened the 6 nuts I'm not sure I noticed any significant water coming out. But again at that time I was not looking for it. Next time I will be seeing what comes out after loosening those nuts. Thankfully my u joints & shaft are not even surfaced rusted and the gimbal bearing and surrounding areas still have grease in tact and it looks and feels pure. Of course it will be cleaned and replaced. Is it any significance that the water was clear and not cloudy as it would be if mixed with oil?

 

[Lou C]

sometimes grease can separate and liquify and look like water, dip a napkin or a paper towel in it and see what it looks like. If it eventually evaporates it was water but if not it could have been liquefied separated grease

 

[bruceb58]

Ok ... but was it possible for it to have been full of water? The water I had was just enough to sit level with the ribs on the bottom of the bellows. Honestly 2 days ago when I loosened the 6 nuts I'm not sure I noticed any significant water coming out. But again at that time I was not looking for it. Next time I will be seeing what comes out after loosening those nuts. Thankfully my u joints & shaft are not even surfaced rusted and the gimbal bearing and surrounding areas still have grease in tact and it looks and feels pure. Of course it will be cleaned and replaced. Is it any significance that the water was clear and not cloudy as it would be if mixed with oil?

Are you replacing your gear oil too? Often, if enough water gets into the bellows, it will travel through the driveshaft seal.

 

[Khris Kraft]

sometimes grease can separate and liquify and look like water, dip a napkin or a paper towel in it and see what it looks like. If it eventually evaporates it was water but if not it could have been liquefied separated grease

I dipped a paper towel in it to soak it all up. But did not save it to watch what would eventually happen to it. I just read your reply. Thanks

 

[Khris Kraft]

Are you replacing your gear oil too? Often, if enough water gets into the bellows, it will travel through the driveshaft seal.

Yes every fall I replace it b4 winter freeze incase it did get contaminated with water. And I will check now and throughout the summer to make sure it's not contaminated or low. Thanks for reply.

 

[Lou C]

Are you replacing your gear oil too? Often, if enough water gets into the bellows, it will travel through the driveshaft seal.

and if you get water in the gear oil if enough gets in you will have the drive pressurized and some can leak past the input shaft seal and then you can get gear oil in the bellows!

 

[Khris Kraft]

and if you get water in the gear oil if enough gets in you will have the drive pressurized and some can leak past the input shaft seal and then you can get gear oil in the bellows!

Uggg