Going from Aluminum to SS

RussTypeS

Recruit
Joined
Nov 21, 2012
Messages
2
Hey guys, I have a 12' Nautica RIB with a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke outboard. It's a pretty light boat, probably 600 lbs with me in it. Currently I have a Yamaha aluminum 3x10-3/8 13 pitch prop, and the outboard has a 1.85 gear ratio. The prop is old and a little dinged up, but not too bad. I'm sure it's not currently the same shape that it once was. With the current prop it will top out just below 5,500 RPM. Speedo reads ~38mph, but that seems a little high.

I'm actually happy with the current prop's performance, but want to pick up a second prop as a spare. I figure I'll get a nice SS prop as a primary and keep this aluminum one for the spare. If anything, I'd to get better economy at cruising speed.

What do I need to consider when changing to SS from aluminum? Do I need to change pitch to maintain a WOT RPM of 5,500? It seems most of the SS props for this outboard are in the 11" diameter range. Can I push the same pitch with a larger diameter stainless prop or would I have to drop it? Is there a particular brand that would work better than another?

Thanks!
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Going from Aluminum to SS

If you get the same brand and style in stainless, you can expect an increase in RPM. If your aluminum is not cupped and the stainless is cupped, RPM may stay the same.

However, different brand stainless props will not necessarily increase RPM. For example: On my larger engines, a Ballistic stainless prop with its larger blade area and aggressive cup will drop RPM considerably over the stock aluminum. Yet, top speed of the boat is the same.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,818
Re: Going from Aluminum to SS

I don't believe the OEM prop is cupped, it doesn't look like it.

Leaning toward this:
Solas New Saturn Stainless Steel Boat Propeller #3331-111-13 for Yamaha 40 HP Outboard 1984 & Newer Includes 40C - iboats

3x11-1/8 13 pitch

Thoughts? Almost an inch more diameter, I don't believe it is cupped either. Should I expect it to turn about the same RPMs?

On cupped or not, maybe the smaller diameter Solas aren't cupped. Most larger hp SS props are cupped and the reason is holding power in high trim positions to reduce ventilation in rough water conditions and tight turns at high engine rpms. Why don't you ask Solas.

For the record. I was fooling around one day and decided to buy one of the Turning Point Hustler alum props because they were advertised to be everything a SS was with the exception of the thin blades....which does matter. I wanted a 23P prop but could not get better than a 21 in my 4 1/4" lower unit size (90 hp), but one was available for the larger 4 3/4" LU diameter which is used with the big V6 engines.

I checked clearances and ordered the prop. I had to add a shim to get the prop to match up to my LU as the prop outer tube (thru prop exhaust) and the LU were the same diameter. Regardless, I rigged it and ran it and the data are posted below:

Original prop: SS Ballistic 13 1/2 x 24 XL
New prop: Hustler Alum 14 1/2 x 23
Both props cupped, high rake (bow lifting), and the Hustler was ported, Ballistic wasn't at the time.

I was alone in the boat and trying to drive, read my instruments and record data all at the same time so the following data are the best that I could do:

---------------------Ballistic------------------------Hustler
------------Calculated---RPM---MPH------CS----RPM--MPH
------------Slip %
On Plane-----------------3k-----18--------------2.8k---20
20 mph--------35--------3.1k--------------------2.8k -
25--------------26--------3.4k--------------11---3k -
30--------------21--------3.8k--------------09---3.5k -
35--------------17--------4.3k--------------08---4k -
40--------------12--------4.7k--------------07---4.5k -
45--------------11--------5.1k--------------06---------Hustler topped out at 5k rpm and 44 mph..engine ran out of whoopie with it.
48--------------------------------------------------------Ballistic topped out at 48.5 (Explorist 200 gps, 50 speedometer) at 5.6k rpms.

The larger diameter prop with less pitch but thicker blades gave me a very smooth hole shot (could not detect any assistance with ports in this prop), very smooth 2k to 3k rpm operating range like the rpm range where you would cruise around on a Sunday afternoon, and I really liked it. It just lugged the engine as 5k is the lower limit on my operating rpm range and I will not run my engines down there. Other thing was the alum held tight in tight turns and the SS ventilated somewhat, but these were high speed very tight turns. The added diameter probably did that.

So all things considered, I dropped 1" in pitch but lost some with the alum blade thickness, doubt the tube diameter had any impact on anything as it was the same diameter as my LU and was not a drag, but I increased a full 1" in diameter.

Numbers are 7.5% dia incr. 12% rpm decr. 10% mph decr.

If I were to choose an alum prop for this engine it would be the Hustler but I would drop down to the tube size for my engine which would reduce the OD to 13+ and I would drop the pitch to 21. This should put me up around 5400 at WOT which is fine with my 5500 suggested upper limit and should provide for a nice ride. But that's not going to happen because I have 4 props for this engine and that's enough.

HTH,
Mark
 

jestor68

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
2,308
Re: Going from Aluminum to SS

I don't believe the OEM prop is cupped, it doesn't look like it.

Leaning toward this:
Solas New Saturn Stainless Steel Boat Propeller #3331-111-13 for Yamaha 40 HP Outboard 1984 & Newer Includes 40C - iboats

3x11-1/8 13 pitch

Thoughts? Almost an inch more diameter, I don't believe it is cupped either. Should I expect it to turn about the same RPMs?

First off; all Solas props are cupped; the SS props just have more cup.

It is normally recommended to drop one inch of pitch when switching from al to SS in order to maintain rpm.

Since you are turning at the top of your rpm range, you could go with the same pitch and lose a little rpm(100-200); while still realizing an increase in performance. Going faster at a lower rpm equals better fuel efficiency. :)
 
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