Got a free boat....oops. Please help!

[steury73]

Alright, so as many do, I was browsing craigstlist and happened upon a free boat. Wife's out of town, I'm bored at home, trouble ensues. Long story short he's moving and just wants to get rid of everything - 14 ft '73 Steury, trailer, and '80 35hp Evinrude motor. Right off the bat the floor is halfway ripped out already, middle stringer obviously needs replaced, trailer tires are dry-rotting but good enough to get home. It's been sitting uncovered outside so bit of water and debris so I cant see everything.

Last night I clean it out and drain the water to better assess the damage. Mind you, I've never owned or worked on a boat before but have done some fiber-glassing. Was hoping to replace the middle stringer and put a new floor on with just a topcoat and texturing. Once I cleaned it I'm wondering if it'll be worth my effort.

Here's a picture of the inside along the main middle stringer - obviously rotten and would replace. On the left the figerglass looks bubbled. Any ideas whats going on there? It's completely hard. I'm assuming whoever did this prior did too much epoxy and it just settled and pushed out the glass. Can someone tell me what's going on with the side stringers? Why are they flat (horizontal)? I've only seen stringers vertical. I thought the side stringers would be ok, but left also has more damage than I originally thought so I'm now assuming an entire floor replace is in the books (I'll be tearing out the rest of the old floor to get a better idea later this week).

I'm planning on using 3/4" pt plywood - not marine grade. I know, I know, a huge sin by many but I'm not looking for this to last forever - hoping for a few years. I mean, it was a free 45 year old boat.

Does the main hull still look in decent enough shape? Do the repair jobs on the hull look ok or need fixed? If fixed would fiberglass putty work? Guy said the motor was running (hand cranking) not too long ago and it just needs a wiring harness, which I just ordered. If I cant get the motor working I doubt I'll fix anything further.

Thanks for any input! Only wanting to put a few hundred dollars (granted I get the motor running) but wanted some advice from those more experienced.

 

[Buckischloo]

I don’t know how Stuery’s are made but it could be that water has gotten under the fiberglass mat into the balsa core causing the spots. Cored boats have an outer shell, then balsa core and then an inner shell. If that is true, it is expensive and a great deal of work to re-core. You might try drilling into one of the spots (core sample) to check for water. The inner shell is very thin and you have to be very careful not to drill a hole in your boat. Are any of the spots soft?

I am working on a old Baja that had spots that looked like that and the whole core was wet and rotted. If mine wasn’t such a cool boat, it would be in the landfill. Just a thought. Even with a bad boat, you scored with the motor and trailer.

 

[Scott Danforth]

free boats are the most expensive to own

 

[steury73]

Thanks Buckischloo. I'll have to get in and tear out a bit more of the remaining floor to see how solid/soft it is. Probably just gonna play it by ear and see how deep the rabbit hole goes. If it's too deep, I'll work on getting the motor going and try to make a few bucks off it.

Scott, you might be right. But as I said, I'm well aware it's a 45 year boat and I'm not looking to do a complete restore, just fix the floor and electrical to get it functional for a few years. Transom is strong, motor (with the exception of the harness), and flywheel look pretty good, spins freely.

 

[alldodge]

Do those core samples as mentioned by Buck and see what else maybe be needed before getting in to far with everything else. So afterwards you should know all that the boat needs and have almost no surprises.

 

[steury73]

Ok, so just tore into it bit. Left stringer is completely rotten. That bubble is hollow - which actually surprised me. How the heck did that form? I highly doubt water did that as the glass was super hard, which made me think it was full of resin.

Anyways, are those in fact stringers on the left and right that are laid horizontal? Just seems really odd as there is no real bracing towards the inside of the boat, or was that stringer used as a mold and the glass the structural part?

 

[classiccat]

That 35 Hp Evinrude will serve you well.

If you decide that being itchy isn't your thing... you can always slap that 'Rude on a tinny the next time the wife leaves town :lol: :thumb:

 

[CrazyFinn]

I'm planning on using 3/4" pt plywood - not marine grade. I know, I know, a huge sin by many but I'm not looking for this to last forever - hoping for a few years. I mean, it was a free 45 year old boat.

Don't use the PT plywood. It won't play well with the resin anyway. And no need for marine plywood. Just use exterior grade 3/4" plywood (exterior grade is important because of the glue they used in it).

 

[steury73]

Thanks for the tip CrazyFinn! I had read elsewhere of using exterior grade but they didn't specify the reasoning, but that makes sense.

So wiring harness and motor manual will be here later this week. If I can get the motor running I think I'm going to fix up the boat. Going to use Douglas fir for the stringers, 3/4" exterior grade plywood, 10oz E Glass with poly resin. Thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

The fir will be ok but could also use the plywood for stringers.

 

[CrazyFinn]

I would use the 3/4 plywood for stringers as well. If you need more thickness, laminate it.

 

[steury73]

Whats the benefit of using plywood for the stringers? Wouldn't I need to double up or would a single 3/4" be sufficient?

Now a bigger issue I have no idea how I overlooked. In this picture you see a little compartment under the helm. I assumed there was a bulkhead there below the handle that went perpendicular to the middle stringer...wrong! That stringer goes a foot or two up past that compartment. Anyone think I'll be able to work around without removing the cap (or deck depending on your terminology)?? It's riveted all around and I really have no interest in trying to take it off, build support for the hull, etc.

 

[CrazyFinn]

Whats the benefit of using plywood for the stringers? Wouldn't I need to double up or would a single 3/4" be sufficient?

Plywood - because it's laminated - doesn't warp like fir lumber can. And the price is right.

 

[alldodge]

Agree no warp, but is also stronger then straight wood. The multi layers keep everything from flexing. I mentioned fir would be ok only because the boat is small, and runs won't be very long.

 

[steury73]

Appreciate the advice! Will be using ply then for the stringers.

 

[garbageguy]

...Now a bigger issue I have no idea how I overlooked. In this picture you see a little compartment under the helm. I assumed there was a bulkhead there below the handle that went perpendicular to the middle stringer...wrong! That stringer goes a foot or two up past that compartment. Anyone think I'll be able to work around without removing the cap (or deck depending on your terminology)?? It's riveted all around and I really have no interest in trying to take it off, build support for the hull, etc.

I am not family with Steury's design and construction either, and I don't know if you"ll be able to work around and still have a safe craft. It is a cool-lookin boat. How's the transom? You may want to check that by core-drilling too. That "middle stringer", is it the keel? From the last pic you posted, is it missing a port stringer? Hard to tell from pics, hopefully not.

 

[steury73]

I am not family with Steury's design and construction either, and I don't know if you"ll be able to work around and still have a safe craft. It is a cool-lookin boat. How's the transom? You may want to check that by core-drilling too. That "middle stringer", is it the keel? From the last pic you posted, is it missing a port stringer? Hard to tell from pics, hopefully not.

Regarding that middle stringer - I would assume it is the keel i'm just not sure how deep it goes down into the hull. Transom actually feels very strong, no movement. Although I know transom rot goes hand in hand with stringer rot so I will probably do a core sample. If there's no rot, do I just fill with putty ("peanut butter")?

As for the port and starboard stringers - I questioned that earlier as well hoping for some guidance. All I can see is boards on either side laid horizontally. In that last pic I posted, what I believe is the port stringer is where my oscillating tool is and where I cut through the glass to see it's condition. I've never seen 'stringers' laid like this, but then again I've only seen what I've researched. It is wooden so I can't imagine it's purpose other than a stringer-ish role.

 

[steury73]

Ok, been focusing on the motor in my free time up to this point. Took apart lower unit, verified water pump works, drained and refilled gear housing unit, installed new wiring harness, inspected fuel pump, replaced batter connections. Everything looked pretty good. Hooked fuel and a battery up and engine cranked strong..but wouldn't turn over. Smelled gas as I primped the motor but couldn't see it leaking anywhere. Figured it'd be a good idea to inspect/clean carb as well - during this I realized the fuel line feeding the carb is cracked. I don't have any marine specific stores around me but was wondering if this fuel line from AutoZone will work? I don't see any reason it wouldn't but wanted to see if any experts could weigh in.
Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

No, you need USCG Type A1 fuel line, should be able to find it on a search. You can use it to get things running if in a hurry, but just change it out later

Edit: I need to remember this is an OB, so it may be allowed, but on IB and IO it's not

 

[oldrem]

No, you need USCG Type A1 fuel line, should be able to find it on a search. You can use it to get things running if in a hurry, but just change it out later

Edit: I need to remember this is an OB, so it may be allowed, but on IB and IO it's not

Type B1 is acceptable for an outboard.