Hard Starting 225

[fission]

Wondering if anyone can help me, last year I chased a mid-range rpm / breaking up problem on my 1986 225 VRO,that ended up to be cracked venturi tubes in 5 of 6 carbs, I rebuilt them, replaced all gaskets and o-rings, gas line and clamps, basically went thru everything to make sure there were no air leaks in system, motor runs great.But am having a real hard time starting it, one time it flooded bad,plugs were dripping wet. next time I was very careful not to flood it, but still wouldn't fire off, so I kept giving a little more gas (pushig key to give a squirt of gas as motor is turning over) it finally lit up, but after alot of cranking, ever since I had boat it started hard but since I have fixed the venturi problem its alot worse, maybe I have to learn all over? normally I open throttle just a hair ( just that I can feel the cable start to take over in the hand throttle) start turning over and give 3 pushes of the key button .Does that seem right ?? Also it seems to start alot easier out of water with ear muffs on, but I don't like to run it like that because theres no back pressure and it tends to backfire. Is there a easy way to check if I have good spark ? I have a digital meter but manual isn't very user friendly when it comes to some of those tests.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Hard Starting 225

A engine can be run on a flushette for hours if need be. Just make sure thet the hose is turned on full force and that the flushette does not viberate off of the water intake area.<br /><br />If by backfiring, you're refering to having the engine spit back through the carburetors (sounds like a mild backfire), that's caused by either lean running carburetors (fouled or wrong size jets), or by having the carbureors opening before they're supposed to, or the carburetors are not synchronized properly (all opening and closing at the same time).<br /><br />On the other hand, if by backfiring you're saying that the combustion is actually blasting out the exhaust area, then you have a ever so slightly sheared flywheel key, a coil wired wrong, something of that nature. Which problem do you have?<br /><br />Starting procedure = Pump primer bulb until hard, Apply enough throttle to open carb butterflies slightly, crank engine and hold key in to engage fuel primer function. The engine should then start.<br /><br />Primer function is to looked upon as a choke. If you had a engine with an electric choke solenoid setup, you would not simply have the choke butterflies slam shut 2 or 3 times while cranking. You would hold them shut until the engine fires up.<br /><br />The "wet" plugs would indicate that fuel is reaching the s/plugs but not igniting. This indicates poor or no ignition.<br /><br />Compression should be 100+ psi and even on all cylinders. Is it? What do you have?<br /><br />Remove the spark plugs. Rig up a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap. Crank the engine and observe the spark which should be a strong blue lightning like spark on all cylinders... a real SNAP! What do you have?

 

[fission]

Re: Hard Starting 225

The backfiring I get with the ear muffs on is thru the exhaust, (and its a pretty good bang)was told on this forum its because theres not enough backpressure with earmuffs ? I did the carb and linkage syncro, also had the flywheel off and key was good,comp is 100-105, as for the the starting procedure, that sounds pretty much like I've been doing, so it should be starting, I have to agree with you- I think I have weak spark, I have checked for spark at all cyl's, and in my opinion- it didn't look real strong, but I was checking with one of those spark plug types that clip on to a ground, I will try the 7/16 gap test, will have to get it out of storage sometime and do that ( live in wisconsin)do you normally keep an eye on this forum or can I e-mail you direct, it may be a while before I can do the test and would like your opinion on the results I get. Thanks Mark

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Hard Starting 225

If I'm still breathing, I'll be here. My email address is below, included for other various conversations to avoid taking up bandwidth. Best to carry on from this topic in case others are interested in the results and possible cure.<br /><br />I'd suggest that you jot down your topic "Hard Starting 225" to enable a easy search later on for this original post.<br /><br />If the spark is very weak or non existent on that 7/16" gap, the usual cause is a melting down stator under the flywheel (black coils at the rear of stator), or a intermitent shorted ignition switch.<br /><br />The ignition switch can be tested for that by simply removing the black/yellow wire (kill circuit) from the switch. If the spark is now as it should be, replace the switch. Note that with that wire disconnected, it is impossible to kill the engine by shutting the switch off.<br /><br />NOTE that the flywheel nut torque is 145 foot pounds on that model. Any less will result in a sheared key. If, after you had the flywheel off, you did not torque the nut properly when installing the flywheel, I'd strongly suggest you re-check that key.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Hard Starting 225

I hope you guys post back here for the follow-up. We need this kind of info.

 

[fission]

Re: Hard Starting 225

Is there a certain tool or something you use to check spark and the gap it is jumping, something I can make ??

 

[round2it]

Re: Hard Starting 225

Originally posted by fission:<br /> Is there a certain tool or something you use to check spark and the gap it is jumping, something I can make ??

I have a neighbor shade tree mechanic at the beach. He set up an adapter using spark plug wires going to a small piece of lumber and nails. He can check the spark on six cylinders from idle to wot. It works. Looks cool at night.

 

[Walker]

Re: Hard Starting 225

Try cleaning all the spark plugs and then run it on the muffs for about 5 to 10 minutes. Pull the plugs and lets us know what they look like. I'm betting your "backfiring" if from a specific cylinder and this test might help spot it.

 

[DJ]

Re: Hard Starting 225

A spark tester is a real cheap item at an auto parts store.<br /><br />This starting procedure always worked well for me.<br /><br />1. Pump up primer bulb.<br /><br />2. Just crack open throttle or warm up lever, whichever you have.<br /><br />3. Turn the key to the "ON" position NOT START.<br /><br />4. Push the key in and hold for a count to eight.<br /><br />5. Release key.<br /><br />6. Turn key to start WITHOUT pushing in. Once it starts, you may have to "bump" the key in a few times to keep it running.

 

[murf1]

Re: Hard Starting 225

Joe Reeves I hope your out there, In regards to my first post, I did some trouble shooting today, no spark at 7/16 gap, but did have intermediate and weak spark at 1/4, except on #6 cyl (which just so happened to have a new coil on from last year when I was starting to trouble shoot) that cyl has a nice blue spark that easily jumps the 7/16 gap. I ran that coil on all other cyl's, GOOD spark, my question is... is it possible to have had all the coils bad or is the stator or something else causing that ??? or could something have "burned " them out ??

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Hard Starting 225

To quote my previous post "If the spark is very weak or non existent on that 7/16" gap, the usual cause is a melting down stator under the flywheel (black coils at the rear of stator), or a intermitent shorted ignition switch."<br /><br />Look under the flywheel at the black coils that exist on the back of the stator. If they're oozing a sticky substance down on the timer base and block, replace the stator.