Hard starting 25 hp

[Leastbay]

Just picked up a 1973 25hp. Model 25302a. To start it cold I need to squirt a little fuel into one of the cylinders. After that it starts with 1 pull and runs great for the rest of the day. The carb has just been rebuilt and it has done it before and after. Could it be the fuel line/bulb?

 

[F_R]

Well, it could be, if it isn't pumping fuel to the carburetor.

Also, make sure the choke is closing.

 

[tommarvin]

Did you completely tear apart the carb clean every opening with spray cleaner,blow air through everything? did you buy a rebuild kit from I Boats.com .

Free factory service manuals at www boatinfo.no/lib/library.html Did you have a factory service manual next to you to explain every step of the rebuild.

Why you ask, it's not that easy to rebuild a carb. Did you adjust the float. Sounds like gas delivery, do you squeeze the bulb hard before you start the cold motor.

Is the choke working ok,always choke a cold motor until it starts the first time.

 

[racerone]

Those carburetors are elegantly simple to inspect and repair.---Not much goes wrong with them----You should look for and inspect the choke detent and make sure that choke closes and stays closed.---Check that plastic detent.

 

[Leastbay]

I have the service manual, the carb and parts soaked 24 hours in carb cleaner, then sprayed, then air dusted. Used a whole new kits with gaskets and everything. It runs real nice once its warmed up and the choke does seem to be working properly. Its just the initial starting, A little fuel in the cylinder and its good to go. I do have an original service manual also. I know this motor has some sort of reed valve system which im not too familiar with either. The bulb never gets hard on the fuel hose. Just trying to save myself a little cash before I replace everything on this motor and its not needed.

 

[Leastbay]

Ill look at the choke again tomorrow.

 

[F_R]

First things first. You said the bulb never gets hard. That's sort of normal. But is it pumping? Pump it up as much as it will, then remove the hex drain plug from the bottom of the carburetor. Does gas pour out? If it does, then the bulb & hose did its job. Next, check that choke. Finally, check the throttle/Spark synchronization (carb throttle pickup point). Your manual shows how. If that all checks out, are you following the correct starting procedure? Ignore the words on the tiller twist grip. With the shift in neutral, turn the grip towards "Fast" as far as it will go. It will only go so far in neutral. That is the start position, no matter what the words say.

 

[Leastbay]

Its the choke not closing all the way, I might have to rig something up to get it to press it closed all the way when I pull out the choke handle. Cant seem to find any part broken or missing. I shoved a small piece of hose in there to keep it closed when starting and it fired right up

 

[oldboat1]

choke valve would be under some spring tension. If the spring isn't wound/loaded right, it could be a problem -- or if it's on the shop floor(!) Have a smaller model that I've had difficulty getting right. In the parts diagram, yours appears to have two springs at the choke linkage (if I read it right) -- might check to see if there are two springs in place.

 

[Leastbay]

there are 2 springs, when I pull the plastic choke knob out the 2 metal parts that contact each other just dont close it all the way. Its close though but maybe 1/2 inch gap. If I could add a little extension to one of the metal parts it would close all the way.

 

[oldboat1]

The choke plate has to completely close in the carb body (and fully open when disengaged -- lays flat). Think I would detach the springs and make sure the assembly works as it should (full travel), bell crank and washers properly assembled, then reattach springs. Hard to tinker at a distance -- would help to have a parts diagram in front of you, and maybe a picture of a fully assemble linkage.

 

[AlTn]

on the choke pull.. the side with the large triangular notch should be on the bottom pointing downward...the 2 springs have a hooked end and a straight end..can you describe how each end is retained, i.e....hooked end over lever, straight end retained in a hole on the carb body?

 

[Leastbay]

 

[Leastbay]

I do not think its anything with the plastic pull handle, that silver piece at the bottom of the first pic just isnt long enough to open the choke all the way. Am I missing something in between?

 

[Leastbay]

cant find anything missing

 

[racerone]

Is the pull knob upside down ?

 

[Leastbay]

no, and the metal piece it pulls comes out all the way until it hits metal in the front part. It would be impossible for it to pull farther

 

[racerone]

Should be an easy fix, bring it over.

 

[Leastbay]

I know its something easy, just cant figure out what. Something where the metal choke lever contacts the choke bellcrank. Kinda like there should be something in between

 

[AlTn]

welp...the 1972 25 hp. I'm looking at doesn't have the 0318536 nor is it listed for a 72, but I see that it is for the 73 model...on this 72 model, the outer spring straight leg is the only thing in contact with the choke plate shaft when the choke is on...the pressure it exerts on the choke butterly is not all that strong..if the engine fires the butterly will open slightly < would use flutter, but that's a bad pun > ...I tried once, unsuccessfully, to put another "wind" on that same spring, different motor, to give it more "umph"...check your set up closely for the chokle plate binding in the carb throat, shaft binding, etc...lubrication is critical on that choke plate shaft