However, when going over my sterndrive, SELOC was incomplete on a lot of info concerning my unit.<br />They also lack info on torquing sequence for my engine on the heads and intake. Had to consult Mitchell for that info. I'm glad I got the manual, but it's not all it's cracked up to be. <br /><br />I had to repeat the torque in the last step another 2 rounds to get it seated. <br /><br />After reaching the 65ft-lb in the third step and the last bolt, I went over the first bolt again and it could turn further before reaching the setting. Went through it again and the third round showed all to be at the set torque.
I would have to ship the engine back, so for now I am happy to do this. The engine shop gave me a list of things to check, I went over that list and then some. He is helpful. And I don't want to have to pull the engine if I don't have to.<br /><br />My son helped me with the intake the first time around and he did not put enough sealant on the front and back surface and I discovered it was leaking oil near the distributor and oil sender. So, It had to come off anyway. I just decided to go a step further and remove the head to eliminate a possibility of a bad gasket.
Usually, the torque value of a bolt, or stud & nut, depends on it's material, size, and thread.<br />I'm not too familiar with your v-6, but I'm guessing the recommendation of 65 lb-ft, as in the case of gearhead racing's #'s, is for a 7/16" diameter head bolt. I guess all SBC's have 7/16" head bolts? If you have 1/2" bolts, then it would be 95 lb-ft. And that would be for lubed threads, typically by 30 weight oil. A good source for more info would be ARP fasteners www.arp-bolts.com Another, if you are using them, is fel-pro's website.
