The bottom plug is to drain and fill. The top plug is to check the level. If you removed the bottom plug you can expect the oil to drain out because of gravity. If you drained it all out already, get another can of gear case lube and a pump to fill it back up. Check the magnet on the lower plug for metal shavings. Rub a small amount of oil from the case between your fingers to feel for shavings. oil gets dirty, but brownish greenish is normal. Dont run the engine until you fill up the case again. Fill it until it from the bottom until if flows out of the top. Put the top plug back in, remove the pump from the bottom hole and quickly replace the plug.
If there was no water coming out and the oil was not milky, you're probably ok. How long since the oil was last changed? If it was cold, the oil will be thick and drain slowly.
I'm not sure on how routinely the oil was changed I just bought the boat and the guy I bought it from said its sat for two years and it was about 45 degrees last night when I drained it I knew it was going to be needed to get changed I just seen the color of the oil and was worried about the gears and clutchdog being screwed up because I've never seen gear oil that color before I might fill it up and run it for a sec and drain it and then refill it again just to make sure all the crud is out, I didn't see any metal shavings in the oil or on the magnet on the drain bolt so I'm hoping everything's good
Replace the washers on the plugs. They're sacrificial and crush to function.
Greenish-brown probably means the fluid was blue to start with, not gold. So, the blue fluid is turning black from use. No problem.
As mentioned, if not milky in appearance, your seals are good and just the change is in order.
Change the washers.
J
In this situation, I'd suggest you get a couple of sets of crush washers ($1 each.)
Then change the lower unit oil and run it awhile in your boat.
Then take your lower unit to a qualified marine mechanic or dealership for a pressure test and a vacuum test. They'll have to drain it to do the test. Have them assess the condition of the lower unit. Only then can you be assured that your lower unit is not going to take in water.
Nothing worse than burning up a lower unit. The penalty for not changing the fluids is over $2K for a new l/u. Used lower units also pull a big price on the retail market if in good condition.
In this situation, I'd suggest you get a couple of sets of crush washers ($1 each.)
Then change the lower unit oil and run it awhile in your boat.
Then take your lower unit to a qualified marine mechanic or dealership for a pressure test and a vacuum test. They'll have to drain it to do the test. Have them assess the condition of the lower unit. Only then can you be assured that your lower unit is not going to take in water.
Nothing worse than burning up a lower unit. The penalty for not changing the fluids is over $2K for a new l/u. Used lower units also pull a big price on the retail market if in good condition.
Search the Internet, they are available at a variety of prices. Search for your specific motor and year and you'll probably be able to locate the universal part number. Google that number. They may even be available here at iboats.
These crush washers are not reusable and new ones must be installed after each lube change or removal of the drain or fill screw.
I got mine for $0.62 each and $1.75 shipping. I ordered 6.
Merc gearcase gaskets will also fit. I do not like the oring kind.
Some gear oil is green, so I think your gearcase is fine. If you see metal chunks you are in trouble. Water (milky gear oil) is not great, but as long as you catch it in time, it is no problem.
