***HELP*** New build, I need help!!

[Dgavin9]

I just took a 1988 Bayliner Capri in on a trade. I think it has an old Chevy 305 motor 5.0L. Not quite sure. The old registration says its OMC 230hp. Anyways, I heard the motor trying to start before I received the boat. The key switch is not right and won't allow it to start for some reason. We crossed the starter over but it will not stay running I have no idea what's wrong. The floor and all interior with leather needs redone. I have ripped up some old wood and working on the old foam now. I am not replacing stringers and I am not taking the wood up under the seats. I am leaving that there and placing new wood everywhere else. What is the best way to do this? My thought is treated plywood, caulk between the gas tank and plywood.resin to connect plywood to the walls of boat? Resin on top of the plywood and then fiberglass on top of it? Then glue and carpet?
Any help and advice is much appreciated!!!
Also, I am looking to buy marine vinyl online and redone leather myself. Is this the cheapest way? I'm looking for the cheapest way to do everything. Thanks in advance!

 

[jbcurt00]

Its likely a lot more work then you expect lies ahead

Not removing the deck under the seats nor core sampling the stringers may not be the wise choice.

Have you checked the transom? Core samples are the only reliable way to do that, a knock or hammer test are not.

 

[Dgavin9]

Thanks for the reply. It doesn't have a wooden transom so I assume it is all good back there. I did just some simple knock checks on the stringers and it all sounded and felt good. This is just an old boat I picked up on a trade and I'm not looking to spend much money on it but want it to look decent again. Is it a bad idea to just lay down treated plywood and carpet? Nothing else

 

[jbcurt00]

Yes it is a bad idea

The deck ties the hull, transom, stringers and sides if the boat together. ..it works as a system, all together, not individually

Spend some time and dig thru other resto topics, lots of good info in here.

I dont think you've seen the plywood transom. Its in there somewhere. Theres a 'horse collar' shaped plywood ring around where the outdrive goes thru the transom

Beyond that collar, there is a 1.5in thick plywood transom. May be across the whole stern, or some portion of it, but trust me, its in.there somewhere.

Same w the motor mounts. They may be attached to stringers or separate, but if the deck is soft, and the flotation foam is wet, it is far more likely that theres water intrusion in there, you just havent found it yet.

Again, look thru other resto topics, esp Bayliner restos. Not Bayliners finest years of production

 

[Scott Danforth]

If the floor is rotten, I guarantee the stingers and transom are rotten. boats rot from the keel upward. boats until the last decade are built on a wooden structure encapsulated in fiberglass. in the last decade, many higher end boats are building stringer tubs, and engineered stringers, however many manufacturers still use wood.

your 1988 bayliner was built in the low quality years of bayliner. not repairing it correctly is a good way to have the boat break apart and sink on you. The stringers, transom and floor are the boats structure. Think of it as the skeleton.

I highly suggest you read this http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ation?t=510077

out of this list of DIY goodness http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...at-information

 

[Dgavin9]

Thanks y'all. This is my first boat and I do not know much about them. I will check again and take pics if I'm still puzzled. I really don't want to spend all the money rebuilding the stringers and all of that. How can I get a good check on the stringers? I don't want it to break in half when I drop it in the water

 

[Scott Danforth]

you need to drill into the stringers, about a half inch deep, about 1" up from the hull. test holes are 6" apart. if the shavings come out light colored dry wood, then fill the holes with marine tex epoxy putty and go boating. if the shavings come out dark, and wet. time to gut the hull.

also, test drill the transom (from the inside) starting around the plug, about 2" up from the bottom of the hull. you only need to drill about 1/2 " deep. if the shavings come out light colored dry wood, then fill the holes with marine tex epoxy putty and go boating. Also run to a store and buy lottery tickets as you will be the only one ever with a rotten floor and good stringers and transom

 

[Dgavin9]

Haha so I see your point that it just didn't happen when it comes to wet floor and dry stringers and transom. Just in case they are dry though, where does the epoxy putty come from? Also where can I get resin and fiberglass for the floor? Thanks for the help

 

[Scott Danforth]

Haha so I see your point that it just didn't happen when it comes to wet floor and dry stringers and transom. Just in case they are dry though, where does the epoxy putty come from? Also where can I get resin and fiberglass for the floor? Thanks for the help

your local ace hardware probably carries marine tex. Iboats sells resin and cloth, so does us composites.

however I wouldnt even worry about materials yet. once you drill, 99.99999% probability you have to make a decision of strip and sell parts, or gut and restore. if you actually have good stringers and transom that (0.000001% posibility), I will eat my hat.

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's some more Rain for your Parade!!!! the OMC PowerPlant and Outdrive are the Least Desirable there is. OMC wen't bankrupt in 2000 and Parts and service are getting to be more and more problematic. Unless you find both the Motor and Outdrive to be in Outstanding condition, I'd be HardPressed to recommend this boat for restoration/rebuild!!!

 

[Dgavin9]

Stringers were damp. What is the process of getting new stringers in and how much $ am I looking at?

 

[Dgavin9]

Thanks for the info! If I get the key situation straightened out, and get it running right. I will probably take it on the water and see what happens. If it breaks in half, there goes my $400 haha if it seems okay I may just throw down some plywood and carpet as bad as this idea that sounds

 

[Woodonglass]

The fines and costs for retrieveing a boat from the bottom of the lake not to mention the possibility of loss of life should make you take this more seriously!!!!:mmph:

 

[NorthwestChap]

:clap2::frown-new: This. Not to mention that by posting here, and receiving sound advice from proven knowledgeable individuals, you make yourself even more liable. Disregarding this advice would be considered careless and reckless. You would lose everything if the worst were to happen.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Stringers were damp. What is the process of getting new stringers in and how much $ am I looking at?

first step of any process is acceptance. there is no damp. there is good and dry, and wet and rotting

just to replace stringers and floor (and the transom since your there) is about $1500 in wood and fiberglass materials and a good solid 100 hours worth of work

 

[jbcurt00]

Thanks for the info! If I get the key situation straightened out, and get it running right. I will probably take it on the water and see what happens. If it breaks in half, there goes my $400 haha if it seems okay I may just throw down some plywood and carpet as bad as this idea that sounds

Is that still the plan based on your new motor topic?
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi.../10113244-1988-bayliner-capri-omc-i-o-problem

 

[fishin98]

Bayliners of that era are notorious for rot issues. Although here on IBOATS you will get a vast amount of information concerning repairs, The Baylinerownersclub
BOC for short, will give you ALL the information you need to bring the boat back into shape, as many of the owners have had the same boat with the same issues.
GOOD LUCK on tying to do a EL CHEAPO repair.

 

[jbcurt00]

W 10% the topics, less then 10% the members and significantly fewer posts, I doubt there will be any advantage going elsewhere.

Bayliners werent built any different then most boats and dont require any particular understanding of their specific construction to repair.

Using it w out a through inspection to confirm its seaworthy isnt wise. If you get advice to the contrary, ask them to actively participate in the sea trial.

 

[Dgavin9]

Is that still the plan based on your new motor topic?

I'm currently trying to get the dash and motor to function properly. If all that checks out, I will continue ripping the floor up and go from there. I'm having some electrical issue with my ignition

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...mc-i-o-problem

 

[Dgavin9]

I'm also looking for a owners manual that would have all the parts and part #s I need. Can anyone point me to an electronic copy of one?