Help Please - Rear end Collision

[BobsAground]

While trailering home I was rear ended with the motor in the up position . I thought the the motor was shot. As it turns out not only does it run, but it goes foward and reverse without any vibration (in the driveway, with no propeller). The steering was quite stiff (September 03) and now (September 04) it's frozen up all together. I disconected the steering arm from the steering cable and the motor turns freely both left and right. I now know that the steering cable is frozen. I have for the last 8 years been very carfull to keep all parts clean and greased, especially the steering components. I have tried to remove the steering cable but it will not come apart. I have backed off the nut on the end of the cable right where the cable goes through the the motor bracket (not sure what it's really called, it's what the motor tilts on when you raise it). When I turn the wheel the rod comes out of this tube, but not all the way (maybe 10 inches). Also, the other end (where it conects to the steering arm, again probably wrong name) just stays put. Will not budge. How do I get the old steering cable out? Heat, sledge hammer?<br /><br />Also, I now believe when I was hit some damadge was done to the pivot tube (the one the cable goes through. Is this expensive? I've taken both nuts off each end and tried to get it out as well.<br /><br />I'm not having much luck here. Also, I'd like to pull the teeth out of that lady who hit me! No novacane (you guys need spell check on this board).<br /><br />Thanks for you time,<br />Bob

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Welcome!!<br /><br />Be careful trying to take the steering tube out. Thats what supports the motor. You must have the motor hooked to a hoist or otherwise supported. If it falls on your foot it'll hurt.<br /><br />I'd just cut the steering cable and take the steering tube out after you support the motor. You can buy a ss tube to put back in. <br /><br />Its sometimes easier to r&r the tube by suspending the motor from a hoist (motor off the boat) and removing one or both of the stern brackets. <br /><br />Good luck!

 

[DJ]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

I don't think the colliosion has anything to do with your steering issue. Just the change after sitting is a clue. Eight years on a steering cable is pretty good, especially for a boat that is not used everyday. Time kills those cables, not wear.<br /><br />Anyway, you are going to have to cut the cable and drive the remainder out of the pivot tube. It's best to use a non marring type of punch/drift. I would prefer brass.

 

[DJ]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

If you wnat to replace the whole tube, follow Dhadleys advice.

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Sorry......<br />I meant to add the following:<br />1996 Johnson BJ40LEDS

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

WOW.....That was quick!<br />Dhadley & DJ.......Thanks for the replies.<br /><br />Could it be the steering tube was bent in the collision? Reason why I ask is that the motor seems to be a bit off center. I say this because when I look at it from behind there seems to be more space between the right side of the lower unit and the transome bracket then there's space between the left side and the bracket. Is the tube big money to replace? Is the tube threaded in or just slid in? Probablly would help if I knew the real names for these parts don't you think?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Youre doing fine. The tube just slides in once the motor is supported and the pressure is off. The tubes arent bad, usually about 100 bucks for the tube, nuts and bushings. You may not need the bushings. <br /><br />As for it being bent, its possible. Hard to tell without seeing it.

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Thanks again......<br />Any good deals on steering cables?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Why not take it to a certified mechanic and get an estimate. You should have talked to your insurance agent by now and given them the other parties policy number, etc. Hopefully a police officer was summoned to the sceen and an accident report taken. So now all you have to do it get it repaired and the liable party will pay, maybe minus your deductable.<br /><br />I would also be concerned about the transom, and have the dealer check it out for damage too.<br /><br />I am not suggesting that you pull an insurance scam here, but you didn't include much info about the actual impact, so getting it checked by a professional can't hurt.<br /><br />Why is the prop off? Was it bent in the accident?<br /><br />Mark.

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Mark42,<br />I did take it to the dealer I bought it from. They checked the hull with a square and said it was OK. The trailer lights and winch were wiped out as was the hitch on my van. I was told the engine needed major repairs. They wrote an estimate that netted me close to what a new motor goes for. The insurance company for the lady who hit me covered everything. Unfortunatly we needed a roof on the house so the boat went under the tarp in the back yard.<br /><br /> That was September '03. Believe me when I say that this boat meant the world to me, but after the accident and all the insurance BS, I parked it in the yard. The estimator never tried to get it running, and neither did I. Yesterday I was securing the tarps for the winter when I decided to see if I could get it running. To my supprise it started. Foward and reverse all worked. As I posted the PT&T works but the rod is bent, there's a steering issue (the steering was fine before the accident, but right after it was obvious that something was wrong, now it's frozen) and the prop was totaled. I came upon this message board and hopefully I gain enough knowledge to try and get it ready for next summer.<br /><br />Thanks for asking,<br />Bob

 

[MarkHPCA]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

If the prop was totaled then there is a good chance the propshaft is bent, not to mention bearings/seals & possibly gears in the lower unit. Did your dealer itemize what was needed in the repaire?

 

[MarkHPCA]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Also if the lower end was hit bad then the driveshaft may also be damaged, or even worse the impact could have gone into the crankshaft. I don't want to give the impression of bringer of bad news but there must have been a reason for the high repair estimate. Maybe the dealer inflated it as an insurance claim but there probably is hidden damage. Best to expect the worst and then it is all good news from then on

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

As I mentioned I had it running in the driveway, high rpm's both forward and reverse and not a hint of vibration. If by driveshaft you mean the shaft the prop mounts on, it was spinning as straight as an arrow. Although you sound like you know more then I and the real proof will be when and if I get a propeller on it and run it in the water underload.

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Also, by the prop being totaled I mean the fins were bent badly, the core of the prop was still perfectly round.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

One more thing to add to the list of items that need checking/replacing: The trailer coupler. You stated the hitch was damaged, so there may be damage to the coupler too. They are inexpensive (usually $10 - $20) and if it is in question, just replace it.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

If you feel the lower unit is OK and decide to run it without dis-assemblying first, I would check the lube regularly for water. It obviously took a lick and seals may not be what they once were.

 

[BobsAground]

Re: Help Please - Rear end Collision

Mark42....<br />Good point. The trailer hitch was replaced as were the coupler and winch.<br /><br />BoatBouy.....<br />Would it be safe to say that if grease hasn't leaked out that water will not leak in? I'll be checking it anyway.<br /><br />Thanks to all for the help.