Help with 1974 chrysler 1057hf

[Woods4542000]

My father in law gave me a bass boat with this motor on it, it was running great when he got it. He hooked up battery cables wrong I'm getting spark from cylinders 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3 my next test is checking stator , I've been trying to fund a replacement for this motor but can't find if anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it very much!

 

[racerone]

The stator under the flywheel charges the battery I believe.-----Why do you suspect the stator ?----Or did you mean stator in the belt driven distributor ?

 

[Woods4542000]

 

[Woods4542000]

The stator under the flywheel charges the battery I believe.-----Why do you suspect the stator ?----Or did you mean stator in the belt driven distributor ?

I was going off this guide , to be honest I need a little guidance lol

 

[jerryjerry05]

What ignition system?? Distributor? Magnapower?
The newer ignitions(your repair page) that uses power packs and you probably don't have that system.
The stator on the older systems charged the battery, the newer systems the stator gone bad could kill spark to the system.
The newer system, the stator can test good and still be bad
Pic or description of the system?

 

[Woods4542000]

What ignition system?? Distributor? Magnapower?
The newer ignitions(your repair page) that uses power packs and you probably don't have that system.
The stator on the older systems charged the battery, the newer systems the stator gone bad could kill spark to the system.
The newer system, the stator can test good and still be bad
Pic or description of the system?

 

[Woods4542000]

What ignition system?? Distributor? Magnapower?
The newer ignitions(your repair page) that uses power packs and you probably don't have that system.
The stator on the older systems charged the battery, the newer systems the stator gone bad could kill spark to the system.
The newer system, the stator can test good and still be bad
Pic or description of the system?

The repair thing I found said chrysler 4cyl engines? I thought since chrysler hasn't made boat motors since 80's it was the right guide. I can't find a whole lot on the motor

 

[racerone]

As per post # 2 you are using the wrong trouble shooting instructions.-----Inspect distributor cap , rotor.

 

[Woods4542000]

As per post # 2 you are using the wrong trouble shooting instructions.-----Inspect distributor cap , rotor.

Any testing I can do on it? Outboards are new to me .

 

[Woods4542000]

Here's some more pictures of it.

 

[Woods4542000]

 

[Woods4542000]

 

[jerryjerry05]

The following links are for some repair/tests.
They might work on your setup?? https://www.outboardignition.com/support/115-3301.pdf / Powerpack
https://www.outboardignition.com/support/155-1450.pdf / Rectifier
https://www.outboardignition.com/support/182-5475.pdf /Coil

Magnapower II Systems​

Disconnect the white and blue kill wires from the CD Module and retest. If the engine starts and inns, the key-switch or kill circuit is bad. Connect a DC voltmeter from the kill wires to engine ground and turn the ignition switch on and off several times. At no time should you see battery voltage on a kill circuit. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders and test with the spark plugs in and out. If the coils will not fire with the spark plugs in, check compression with the spark plugs removed from all cylinders. A blown head gasket on these engines can cause the coils not to fire with the spark plugs installed. This is caused by a hard to explain problem with the triggering circuit. Crank the engine with the starter and then stop. Check the DVA voltage on terminals Ti and T4. You should read between 170 and 270 volts Positive on terminal Ti and between 170 and 270 volts Negative on terminal T4. (Remember that some DVA adapters are not polarized and will read the same regardless of the polarity). If there is a low reading on one of the terminals, disconnect the white/blue and green/white trigger wires, then retest. If the readings are now correct, one of the trigger modules is bad. A continued low reading may be caused by a bad capacitor. To test, use a couple of jumper wires and swap the green and white capacitor wires going to terminals Ti and T4. If the low reading remains on the same terminal, the CD is bad. If it moves when you move the capacitor wires, the capacitor is shorted. Check to see if the ignition coils are wired correctly. The #1 coil on a two cylinder and the #1 & 2 cylinder on a four cylinder are wired as NEGATIVE GROUND. The #2 coil on a two cylinder and the #3 & 4 cylinder on a four cylinder are wired as POSITIVE GROUND.

 

[racerone]

Looks like there is only 1 coil on it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Nordin usually answers questions on these older motors?
I don't have that much experience on these older Chryslers.

 

[Woods4542000]

I did pull the cap apart.

 

[Woods4542000]

The following links are for some repair/tests.
They might work on your setup?? https://www.outboardignition.com/support/115-3301.pdf / Powerpack
https://www.outboardignition.com/support/155-1450.pdf / Rectifier
https://www.outboardignition.com/support/182-5475.pdf /Coil

​

Magnapower II Systems​

Disconnect the white and blue kill wires from the CD Module and retest. If the engine starts and inns, the key-switch or kill circuit is bad. Connect a DC voltmeter from the kill wires to engine ground and turn the ignition switch on and off several times. At no time should you see battery voltage on a kill circuit. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders and test with the spark plugs in and out. If the coils will not fire with the spark plugs in, check compression with the spark plugs removed from all cylinders. A blown head gasket on these engines can cause the coils not to fire with the spark plugs installed. This is caused by a hard to explain problem with the triggering circuit. Crank the engine with the starter and then stop. Check the DVA voltage on terminals Ti and T4. You should read between 170 and 270 volts Positive on terminal Ti and between 170 and 270 volts Negative on terminal T4. (Remember that some DVA adapters are not polarized and will read the same regardless of the polarity). If there is a low reading on one of the terminals, disconnect the white/blue and green/white trigger wires, then retest. If the readings are now correct, one of the trigger modules is bad. A continued low reading may be caused by a bad capacitor. To test, use a couple of jumper wires and swap the green and white capacitor wires going to terminals Ti and T4. If the low reading remains on the same terminal, the CD is bad. If it moves when you move the capacitor wires, the capacitor is shorted. Check to see if the ignition coils are wired correctly. The #1 coil on a two cylinder and the #1 & 2 cylinder on a four cylinder are wired as NEGATIVE GROUND. The #2 coil on a two cylinder and the #3 & 4 cylinder on a four cylinder are wired as POSITIVE GROUND.

Thank you! I'm gonna check these out.

 

[Woods4542000]

I think I found a replacement cap , and ordered it shouldbe here in a few days and was only 15$

 

[Nordin]

Your engine has Magna Power I system, not Magna Power II.
Magna Power II is completely different.
Your system must have power from battery to charge the capacitors in the CD box.
The dist. has either points or a preamp which trigger the CD box to fire.
As you have spark at #1 and #4 check the dist. cap, HT wires and HT spark plug boots.
This system needs 9,5VDC and up when cranking, if not it would not fire.
Outboardignitiondotcom has the troubleshooting chart for this system.

 

[Woods4542000]