Help with 2000 Volvo Gi

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
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16
Hey everyone! New to the boating world but not necessarily to mechanical things. Just bought (what I thought was a clean, low hour) 2000 Caravelle with a Volvo 5.0 Gi. Took it out for the weekend. The engine starts and runs so smooth. Above 3000 rpms though it will eventually start to lose power, miss, run rough then die. If I turn the ignition off and back on and immediately restart the engine it will be ok for a while then start doing the same thing. Below 3000 it will basically run all day without hiccup. But above it will run roughly 30-60 seconds, maybe a little more, before it does it. If I try to let it idle it’s way out it won’t. In other words once it starts to run rough there is no recovery. But off and on again (even very quickly) makes it run perfect again. Odd enough if I let it stall but don’t turn the ignition off and just restart that does not fix it. It seems to want an ignition recycle.
some things I checked. Obviously oil pressure and temps are ok. Battery is good. Fluids good. Fuel new. Cap and rotor look new not so much the plug wires though. I pulled the anti siphon valve out and somebody replaced it with just a plain elbow. Draw straw does not seem to be restricted. We tried venting the fuel cap by loosening that didn’t seem to help. Did a general inspection for looks wires or anything odd and didn’t seem much. I checked the ignition switch and General area of wires for loose connections. Nothing.
I’m confused on why a quick reset makes it run better. Again keep it under 3000 and it runs perfect all day. Drop the hammer and take it up (with a couple of people in the boat it would spoil up to 4500ish) above 3000 and you can take a check to the bank that you’ve got 30-60 seconds of fun before you start hearing some missing and loss of power.
Oh and during power cycle you can hear the pump momentarily. I know that doesn’t mean it’s working perfectly. But again I’m not sure why a power cycle would help the pump out and not just a restart without power cycle (or even letting the engine idle for a while to recover low fuel pressure).
sorry for being windy I am just a little perplexed! Thanks! And sorry for typos I’m using my phone.
 

alldodge

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Its a Gi what?
Check fuel pressure and leave gauge on it when running
 

QBhoy

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Mar 10, 2016
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There is a great chance that you have a blockage at your pick up pipe in the tank. These symptoms make sense for that. The more you open the throttle, the more fuel she tries to suck and if something is getting over or around the pipe inlet it will be really drawn to it at full throttle. Then you slow down or shut it off...the suction stops and drops whatever it is that’s blocking it. Runs fine until you suck it up again. Seen this loads over the years. Have a look or run it from a small fuel can that will bypass the tank suction line to prove it.
 

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
Messages
16
So quick question I tried to remove the fuel tube and when I get to the end it would pull completely out it gets caught on something. I’m afraid to pull harder and have whatever is on the end of the tube fall into the gas tank!! I’m not sure why I can’t pull it all the way out?
 

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
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Ok got tube out just had to give her a tug. Screen filter is perfectly clean and from what I can see the tank doesn’t look bad inside either. Not sure that’s the issue. Could the coil be breaking down since it’s over 3000 rpms for a period of time? I have noticed that maybe even under 3000 (like pulling a tube for a while) it starts to get a little sluggish. Again if I shut it off and turn it back on she runs like a top! At least till I run it over 3000rpms for 30 or so seconds. Ugh
 

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
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Sorry new to the boat world. Not sure right now other than a 5.0 Gi? Should I pull serial numbers or something?
 

alldodge

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Serial numbers are best
The Gi should be a dash letter A thru J or so
 

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
Messages
16
Ok PEFS
3869057
4012006958
checked fuel pump connectors no corrosion
personally what baffles me is that once the engine starts to run rough and then die (again only after running above 3k for a while otherwise it runs perfect) is that without an off/on key cycle it will never run good again. When it does I let it sit for 10 mins and eat some food. Restarted it without turning key off and it won’t run right. Cycle off and back on and it runs like a new engine. Based on what I can research once the engine stops the pumps stop. So I would think that dirt would be released and simply starting back up would be no different that cycling the key. But by cycling the key something is being reset and allowing it to run good.
I just got a call from the service manager that worked on the boat over the winter. Said it threw a code for low oil pressure or level (can’t remember) so he replaced the switch. He checked high and low pressure on pump and they were within spec but he is also unable to test under load easily. Said did full tune up cap wires plugs etc. thought he had it licked.
he suggested that the fuel line might be collapsing under higher vacuum. Also said even though draw straw looks ok might be best to replace. Also said if problem persists to measure pressure under load primarily on high side and if that drops down it could
be either low or high. Also mentioned paint chip issue. But how “serviceable” is this pump? I can remove but how much can I take apart to check for paint chips? Thanks!!
 

Dhassan76

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May 2, 2020
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Still seems like if line was collapsing that once the engine quit it would open back up without cycling the key. The only thing that seems to happen when the key is cycled is one of the pumps run for a moment or two?
 

alldodge

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Sounds like your service manager is a parts changer. He is replacing all kinds of things and hasn't fixed anything. You said it only happens under load, so running on a hose is useless.

I agree and don't see the pickup tube as the issue or a collapsing fuel line.

Find a local auto parts store which will loan you a fuel pressure gauge. Connect to HP pump side and take it for a run. If its fuel pressure need to find out if pump is loosing power or could be even sucking air. The PO replacing the anti-siphon valve with straight fitting is anothers change trying to fix current issue
 

QBhoy

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Did you try running it with the pick up pipe raised a little off the bottom of the tank ?
worth knowing that there is also sometimes a non return valve arrangement in the fuel supply line too. That can sometimes get blocked the same way.
Id be trying to run it with pick up pipe raised a little off the bottom of tank....then if still the same, running the engine off a small fuel can to rule out the whole idea of it being the maim fuel tank or supply line.
 
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