Help with RPM gauge

sportcraft17

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2004
Messages
78
RPM gauge is always below 0, If turn the switch without cranking, RPM gauge goes to 0, when I crank the motor RPM goes back below 0, any idea what could be wrong? Is there any way that I can test the RPM cable with a digital meter? Just to see if the motor is sending the RPM. I don?t know if is the motor or the gauge is bad. I will appreciated any help

Thank you
 

jtexas

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
8,646
Re: Help with RPM gauge

been like that since you acquired it, or is it a recent development?

Make sure tach selector is set to "6p"

Tach sender (gray wire) to ground should be at least 3.5 volts AC at idle - otherwise suspect faulty rectifier.

Check operation of rectifier by measuring battery voltage with engine idling, should be higher than battery open circuit voltage.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Help with RPM gauge

It would help if you stated exactly what engine you're speaking of.

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 
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