High speed needle seized?

[merkdawg0084]

Hey guys 57 fd-11. Doing a carb cleaning and rebuild.
2 issues. High speed needle stuck and drain screw sheared off one side. Best method to fix both? Thx

 

[merkdawg0084]

I guess my question is how do I get the needle out? And can I get by without taking out the drain screw?

 

[Crosbyman]

dont play with the drain screw…!

drop some wd40 in the HS channel and wait try again wait try again warm up the carb body + wd 40 wait try again

patience brings joy

 

[merkdawg0084]

Thank you

 

[F_R]

Don't heat it. Brass expands more than the aluminum, making it tighter yet. You might try tossing it in the freezer instead.

 

[merkdawg0084]

Small pipe wrench or vise grips? Lol

 

[boobie]

Mix up some ATF and Acetone 50-50 and soak it in that.

 

[oldboat1]

Soak the carb top and bottom in lacquer thinner for a day, then take another look. Should do that before rebuild anyway, particularly in a carb with issues.

 

[merkdawg0084]

Yes I’m soaking carb now, but can’t get the needle out. Also the office tube is seized up too. Don’t want to break the brass

 

[Crosbyman]

for freezing… try a $4 can of keyboard cleaner (pressurized gas) turn it upside down and blast it for 10 seconds

Q: does a metallic circle expand outwards when heated or does it expand inwards when heated

presumably…. if the carb body is warmed up before the brass shaft starts to expands outward ….then the threaded aluminum portion of the carb body (hole) should start to expand outwards releasing its grip in the needle while the needle shaft itself can be frozen & shrunk with a blast of canned air …:smow:

web searched for an answer ….:ranger:

Real life example -- in the 'old days' of wagon wheels, they were wood with metal rims. The metal rims were heated, they expanded, the rims put on the wheels and then quickly cooled. The rims shrunk, fitting tightly.

So, the 'inside' of the metal rim expanded to fit over the wood, and thus the real life answer is that the 'hole' gets bigger when heated.

 

[merkdawg0084]

Now once I do that what do I turn the needle with? Clamp a set of vise grips or try to turn it with the black knob that screws on the end? Thanks

 

[racerone]

The metal hoop for a wagon wheel got " longer " when heated.-----And therefore both inside and outside diameters get bigger.

 

[Vic.S]

Don't heat it. Brass expands more than the aluminum, making it tighter yet. You might try tossing it in the freezer instead.

Thats not actually true

Obviously the actual coefficients of expansion depend on the alloys but aluminium alloys are in the range 21 - 23 and brasses approx 19 -20 x 10 ^-6 / °C

 

[merkdawg0084]

You guys are killing me. Lol. I’ll tell ya what. Guys I know have always used a little heat to remove nuts and bolts, but not brass ones. I’ll try a little heat today, not enough to make it distort the aluminum and I’ll let ya know the outcome. Stay tuned..

 

[F_R]

Thats not actually true

Obviously the actual coefficients of expansion depend on the alloys but aluminium alloys are in the range 21 - 23 and brasses approx 19 -20 x 10 ^-6 / °C

That Engineering-speak is way over my head. But what I do know is years of experience as a salt water mechanic. Heat works with steel or stainless steel fasteners in aluminum, but not with brass fasteners in aluminum. Case in point: Bail-A-Matic Scott-Atwaters used brass screws to hold their water pumps. Heat was totally useless in getting them out.

 

[merkdawg0084]

Ok guys, I soaked nozzle and high speed needle overnight with WD-40. Then I used a heat gun on high heat this morning. Heated just the aluminum on the carb. And I used a little brute force and they came out.
So not sure what all helped? Maybe a combination of it all!! Anyway take a look at these pics and let me know if these are useable. Thanks again. I’m sure I’ll have more questions.

 

[racerone]

Should not be hard to find a good used nozzle.----Needle should still be good.

 

[merkdawg0084]

Ok thx.

 

[Crosbyman]

try TIM's outboard for a replacement (used) at fairly low cost

but….if I was stuck I would at least tack on some soldering lead with a solder gun then file away what I did not need to bring back in shape then reinstall carefully to not damage my repairs

( that shaft is brass so it should take the solder real nice if you apply solder paste before soldering)

 

[merkdawg0084]

Thx. I did find a new one. New problem here? Or it might be ok? Look at pic please. Thx