how many hours of running to burn off milky oil?

[alamantia]

I bought a boat that was sitting for 4 years with no intake or heads on the motor. When I pull the dipstick the oil looks clean and new, but when I changed it, it looked milky. I would expect it to after sitting for so long, but even after I changed it, it still looks milky. How long does it take of engine running to burn this off?

 

[gm280]

Is picture number three the initial oil you drained out or the second oil you were talking about? If that is after you changed the oil, you really need to flush that engine to clean out all that crap. If this is the initial oil, then run the new oil for a little time and change it again including the filter. And was this engine sitting outside in the weather or under some type cover? If this was sitting in the weather, you will probably have to make a few changes to rid it from such milky junk... JMHO!

 

[Alumarine]

I don't think you'll burn that off!
You'll need to change it a few times. Use the cheapest oil and filters you can find.

 

[Fastatv]

That's very milky looking oil for the second change. I would do what you have done, change it twice. Then fire it up on the hose, let it run for a half hour....no revving, just idle, get the engine up to temp....shut engine off and change the oil and filter again. Then run it on the water ( lake ) for a couple hours, check it, then leave it if the oil looks good, or change it one more time if its still a little milky. If only slightly milky, a couple hours or running will probably get rid of the condensation. But I would not run it hard until all milkiness is gone.

 

[flipbro]

I personally think you should preasure test the cooling system. 2 oil changes and you should have clean oil with the exception of mabe a little white on the tip of the dipstick. With that much in pic you would destroy the engine before it burnt of

 

[alamantia]

Sorry, that picture was the initial oil dump. I put all new oil and filter in and primed it with my cordless drill. It looked significantly less milky after I did that but still showed evidence of moisture. I guess I can do one more prime and change before firing her up.

 

[H20Rat]

+1 on the pressure test... I'd be surprised if that is just left over condensation. I think you might have some new water being introduced.

 

[UncleWillie]

Boiling off the water in a boat is not going to happen like it would in an auto.
In the automotive world, the radiator is sealed and pressurized. This allows heating the block and oil to over 212F.
The water in the pressurized radiator does not boil but any water in the slightly hotter and un-pressurized oil will.

In a boat, the oil should not get past 180F on a bad day.
It will evaporate at an accelerated rate but it will be like watching warm water boil. Not!

By running the engine, you cause the water to emulsify with the oil.
If you drain the oil Immediately after running, you can get most of the water out before it settles out of the oil again.
Time is of the essence! Drain quickly. Refill, and repeat with inexpensive 40w oil and Filter as needed.

 

[java230]

Run it on muffs for a few mins and take a look at what the new oil is like. If that is the original i'm not so worried, I thought that was after the first change.

 

[alamantia]

Cool deal. After I finally start it I want to inspect the water pooling in my driveway from the exhaust and look for any evidence or oil in it to indicate a cracked water jacket. I also took note of what the oil level is now vs. after I run it. If I see the oil level any higher I would also suspect a crack in the block.

I was given the boat practically from the previous owner. He states that he changed the oil and winterized it before he put it away, didn't get a chance to use it the following season and the season after that when he went to start it he bent a pushrod from a valve being stuck in the guide. I have no reason to believe the block is bad, he just gave me the boat to get it off his property so I cant see him making up the story. My engine builder said it is not uncommon in engines that sit for prolonged time to get a stuck guide.

I really wanted to pull the motor and but a long block in it, but the thought of pulling the motor only to find out it was good would be my luck. I just slapped heads on it to see if it fires and runs and hope for the best before I yank the whole thing out. Its a PITA for me too because I don't have a crane. Id have to two it up to work and use the forklift.

This boat has a sun deck, my old boat has a sun deck. I remember after a heavy rain I would open the hatch on my old boat and see drips of water on the manifold. It stands to reason that an engine sitting for 4 years with no heads or manifold would get some water in it. I also noticed on my old boat that if there was any white on the dipstick I would idle it in the water or on the muffs and I would see a bit of steam come out of the breather tubes and it would eventually stop once it got warmed up.

Supposedly the engine has not been ran in 6 years and it was fresh oil 7 years ago. Again, I got the boat for almost nothing so I have no reason to think he knowingly gave it to me with a cracked block. But who knows I guess.

 

[Bondo]

After I finally start it I want to inspect the water pooling in my driveway from the exhaust and look for any evidence or oil in it to indicate a cracked water jacket. I also took note of what the oil level is now vs. after I run it. If I see the oil level any higher I would also suspect a crack in the block.

Ayuh,..... Yer not gonna steam off that moisture, without a Load on it,....

A couple hours at 'bout 3/4 throttle crusin' outa do it though,.....