How much to bore and replace pistons?

ZmOz

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Aug 13, 2003
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As some of you know, there was a little oil incident with my Mercury 1500 last september. I've got another one coming, but I'm thinking of rebuilding the old to use as a spare. I'm thinking at the very least it will have to be bored out and pistons replaced. First, how much can I expect to pay to have this thing bored out? And where would I find new pistons?<br /><br />Thanks :)
 

Clams Canino

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

Where I go for boring it's $35 or $40 per hole for boring.<br /><br />If you got lucky the aluminum could be ON the walls and no gouges IN the walls. In that case you can clean the walls with muriatic acid and then use a flex-hone.<br /><br />There are good used pistons on Ebay all the time, though mostly stock size.<br /><br />Also, Pro-Marine has them new for about $75 per, thier part number for the .015 oversize with pin and rings included is 9015.<br /><br />If you're a first timer, and gonna try this yourself, you might need to visit the inline six community for some specialized tutoring. If your Outlook Express works right, this link will get you there if you cut and paste it into your web browser.<br /><br />news://news.kraits.org/bigweek.mercury-inlines<br /> <br /><br />Good Luck!<br /><br />-W
 

ZmOz

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

So in other words a hell of alot? :D Hmmm...maybe a hone will do it....
 

rodbolt

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

hello<br /> careful with the dingle berry hone. they are not designed for that, only to break glaze on 4 stroke walls and not real well at that. the problem is when the balls fall into the port then ride up the radius and oversize the radius thus causing the rings to try to ride in and out of the intake and exhaust ports. some engine port designs make this worse than others. that and it wont correct any taper or egg in the cyl and will actually make it worse in some cases.the muratic acid trick works ok for some but if your not really really careful it will eat through the top of the jug.just the drops ya didnt see that went on down :) :) . the piston to wall clearence is only about .004 max so be careful with any spring loaded hone. I use an old 2 stone sunnen that probably built the ark. it has 2 stones and 2 wipers but it has a micrometer expansion knob so I can set it for stock removal. I have seen many blocks trashed by the indesciminate use of the dingle berries. in my humble or maybe not so humble opinion, the only place dingle berrys belongs is on cow tails.<br /> good luck and keep posting
 

Clams Canino

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

OK - In part we'll agree to dissagee. I personally find that in the hands of an inexperienced user, a flex-hone is less likely to screw anything up than a rigid hone will. :D <br /><br />As for the rest of the stuff about the "bad things" those mean old dingleberries do to the ports. See this link:<br /><br /> web page <br /><br />That picture in the upper left corner is the machine they used at Mercury to hone the new inline six blocks. You will note that is uses 6 flex-hones at once to do all 6 holes. Yes, the dingleberries were used at the *factory* to make these blocks to begin with.<br /><br />For further info, check out this link which leads to a PDF file of more technical info as to why the dingleberries provide superior port radiusing.<br /><br /> Tech page <br /><br />Click on item #1 entitled "Mercury Marine improves quality control with new flexible honing tool." <br />Gotta love that picture of Mercury putting the old dingleberries right to it - huh?<br /><br />Of course "new" is relative as it's an older article, but I think it puts the "4 stroke only" myth to bed. No? :D <br /><br />keep posting<br /><br />-W
 

rodbolt

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

hello clams<br /> dude whats uh..the deal?<br /> most people with a 3/8ths drill in the garage cant match the precision of a gang drill machine in a solid fixture that the machine can be set from 3 to 20 or so strokes per minute with an almost infinate setting of speeds. in all the sleeves I have installed in crossflow engines and the sleeves I have installed in loopers. I have never seen one that we did not cut the port radius by hand. some engines have a very wide port and a dingle berry will eat up the port radius and shorten piston ring life. and yes an anchient inline merc is a crossflow I dont care if they did call it Direct charge. so I will stick to what I said cause I have seen some destroyed by improper use of the berries. so we can agree to disagree but dont show me pics from 20 years ago:) show me someone that can do this by hand with a dingle berry. its almost like people putting tin foil in the hubcaps to confuse police radar because planes dropped it as chaff during WWII. the only thing in common was it is still tinfoil. and after reading the web site it became apparent with the DRY SHAFT casting comment that the guy who wrote this at merc now sells opti-pops. the last dingle berry hone I bought from snap on says not to reverse the hone. I use them for certain applications I am not saying never, I just said be very careful or it will do more damage than good. the merc factory blocks also were new and had no core shift or taper or egg. the hones they used were also of a paticular size not a general purpose thing from napa that covers from 2 3/4" to 4". I am not trying to argue and if it works use it, you seem to be an experienced tech so I wont argue methods. I will caution others about what can happen if care is not used and why and what the damage can be.<br /> good luck and keep posting
 

Clams Canino

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

hello clams<br /> dude whats uh..the deal?<br /> most people with a 3/8ths drill in the garage cant match the precision of a gang drill machine in a solid fixture that the machine can be set from 3 to 20 or so strokes per minute with an almost infinate setting of speeds. <br /><br />Which is exactly *why* they can do more harm with anything rigid. If they run the drill at a "medium" speed and stroke the bore for about a 20 count in both directions (with well oiled dingleberries) they will break the glaze and have minimal chances to screw up the bore. Remember, we're talking engines that are usually a total loss (cost wise) if they can't be fixed at home. I'd much rather cut someone's losses with the berries than anything rigid.<br /><br /> in all the sleeves I have installed in crossflow engines and the sleeves I have installed in loopers. I have never seen one that we did not cut the port radius by hand.<br /><br />Some engines have a very wide port and a dingle berry will eat up the port radius and shorten piston ring life. <br /><br />OK, but on the old inlines the factory *used* the berries. They still might, that picture was early 80's.<br /><br />Agreed, but who am I to argue with the OEM? If the berries worked then, they'll work today. Care to explain port radiusing to a noob? Want him in there with a <gasp> file after a bore job? :D <br />I don't. But I can explain how to hold the drill perpendicular and give some quick lovin' to his six holes. :D <br /><br /> And yes an anchient inline merc is a crossflow I dont care if they did call it Direct charge. <br /><br />Totally agreed - "Directed Charge" was more like it. Chalk another one up for the Mercury marketing boys. :) <br /><br /> So I will stick to what I said cause I have seen some destroyed by improper use of the berries. <br /><br />So we can agree to disagree but dont show me pics from 20 years ago:) <br /><br />I believe you, but I still think the spring loaded hard hones are even MORE dangerous in the hands of a Noob with a drill - no? <br /><br />But they are the only pics I had, :D and remember that site is current, the pic is old - I bet Mercury *still* uses them on steel sleeves.<br /><br />show me someone that can do this by hand with a dingle berry. <br /><br />You really want a picture of me?? :D :D :D <br /><br />Its almost like people putting tin foil in the hubcaps to confuse police radar because planes dropped it as chaff during WWII. the only thing in common was it is still tinfoil. <br /><br />Hey! You mean my tinfoil hat *won't* stop them from seeing inside my brain. And here I thought it would stop the VOICES!!!! PLEASE STOP THE ALIEN VOICES!!! whew.... Ok I'm better now.<br /><br /> and after reading the web site it became apparent with the DRY SHAFT casting comment that the guy who wrote this at merc now sells opti-pops. <br /><br />Perhaps, but I got $100 says they *still* use the dingleberries. <br /><br /> the last dingle berry hone I bought from snap on says not to reverse the hone. <br /><br />And my cousin told me never to reverse Black Sabbath Paranoid while on acid. Oh well. PLEASE STOP THOSE VOICES!!! :D <br /><br />I use them for certain applications I am not saying never, I just said be very careful or it will do more damage than good. <br /><br />We agree there. All I was saying is of the methods available to the home mechanic, the berries are the lesser of all evils.<br /><br />The merc factory blocks also were new and had no core shift or taper or egg. the hones they used were also of a paticular size not a general purpose thing from napa that covers from 2 3/4" to 4". <br /><br />Yes, you need an (off the shelf) 3 inch flex-hone - the bores are about 2.9 inches. Kinda hard to overtension 1/10 of an inch if you try to keep it in the middle. If anything the dang eyebrow cutouts in the head area tend to damage the hone by snagging the poor berries at the end. next time I buy a new hone, I'm having stainless steel disks made to drop in there to protect my poor dingleberries.<br /><br />I am not trying to argue and if it works use it, you seem to be an experienced tech so I wont argue methods. I will caution others about what can happen if care is not used and why and what the damage can be. <br /><br />I'm *very* experienced *only* in the 99ci direct charge motors and the smaller variants. All I'm saying is that compared to rigid devices and files and stuff - I can at least *explain* how to safely use dingleberries in a paragraph or less. Anytime you put a strange power tool in a bore - there's risk. But if the factory used it, and all the 99ci racers I know use it, Who am I to argue?<br /><br />Peace...<br /><br />-W
 

walleyehed

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Jun 29, 2003
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6,767
Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

I use a Sunnen Hone as well, and for what it's worth, I too, would recommend staying away from ball stone type hones. They WERE designed to be used in a solid cylinder with no ports, and THEY DO round the crap out of the trailing side of the ports in 2-strokes....seen it too many times.<br />Solid cutter-bar hones, and solid bar stones for de-glazing and finishing is the "intended" method for port-type cylinders....Merc has always been a little funny about their methods anyway...maybe that's why that vintage of Merc is out numbered 4 to 1 by OMC.... :D
 

Clams Canino

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

OK, we'll agree happily to dissagree. :) <br /><br />It's been my experience that the 3" (180-220 grit)ball hone run in both directions, at a reasonably slow speed, for the *proper* length of time gives a nice cross hatch without harming the ports, in this *particular* bore. I won't presume to speak to any other outboard. <br /><br />Going back to the beginning of this threads premise, the problem with these motors is that it's cost prohibitive for many people to "fix them right" by buying six new pistons and having six holes rebored .015 over.<br /><br />So now you're dealing with 25 year old bores with a bit of taper, and out of round, etc etc. In bores like that, the home mechanic *carefully* using a 3" flex-hone has a reasonable chance of getting a good cross-hatch without screwing anything up further. And I've done over 300 of these holes that way in the last year and 1/2.<br /><br />Most of these things were running well till "something" broke. For the guy that doesn't have $800 to take the block to the shop and buy six new pistons, the best outcome is to try to make it as "good as it was" before the failure. I maintain that *judicious* and carefull use of the_same_exact_hone they used at the Merc factory, achieves that best, given the bores condition and the novice user status.<br /><br />Now as for more OMC motors of that vintage running around out there: That *may* be true, but they still don't go anywhere. :p <br /><br />When I see that picture of the Merc plant, my thought was "another star is born". Show me a similar picture of the OMC plant and I'll show you "a clam is born". :D <br /><br />-W
 

walleyehed

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

180-220 grit hone is in no way a "finish" hone...that's too course, and I can see where this is going, so I'll just say I gave my opinion, and be off.... :)
 

Clams Canino

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Re: How much to bore and replace pistons?

I'll agree that 180 seems a bit rough, I use a 220 myself. Believe it or not they used 180 at the factory. Since that seemed a little coarse to me, and in light of this discussion, I emailed Flex-hone and asked what they reccomended without me "leading the question". - the reply:<br /><br />_________________________________<br /><br />Dear Wayne,<br /><br />Thank you for your inquiry and for your interest in our products. Actually,<br />we recommend our BC 2-7/8" tool for your bore of 2.875. All of our<br />Flex-Hones are produced oversized and listed in the diameters in which they<br />are intended to be used. We require a $50.00 net minimum to process an<br />order directly and can ship via UPS COD until an open account is<br />established. Please find the following information:<br /><br />Part No. Part Desc.<br />Price/ea.<br /><br />BC27818 BC 2-7/8" (73mm) 180SC Flex-Hone $28.62<br /><br />______________________________<br /><br />Don't shoot the messenger :) I'll leave it at this: Mercury used it, flex hone reccomends it. Who am *I* to argue with OEM specs? <shrug><br /><br />-W
 
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