Re: How to test shift cut out switch?
I had similar problems which was finally fixed after I analysed and understood how the damn contraption works. They shold have gotten rid of the undercut gears. Hope this helps.<br /><br />The shift cutout switch "can" work in both going into gear and out. Let me explain.<br /><br />If you study the intermediate shift plate and the linkage. The function it performs is for the upper shift cable to move the lower (both directions) and allow one to move independently of the other. When independent movements occur, the shift cutout swich will sense this and cause the ignition to be cutoff, ignition is restored when the cables synchronise.<br /><br />So how does this work? The gear design allows shifting into gear quite easily, hence engaging gears is usually not a problem and the 2 cable movements stay synchronised during the engagement cycle, the switch is never actuated. If you have a sticky lower cable, the upper cable movement will result in an out of sync situation if the lower cable does not move. The switch will be actuated and kills the engine.<br /><br />Shifting out is slightly different, due to the gear undercut, the gears do not disengage easily. This will always result in non movement of the lower cable and actuating the switch. When the engine 'dies' the torque on the gears which holds them together is removed, allowing the gears to disengage. In disengaging, the lower cable moves and synchronises with the upper cable, resets the switch, restores ignition.<br /><br />Bad cable adjustments which misaligns the upper and lower cable neutral position will cause engine dying during engaging shifts. The misalignment gives an upper cable 'overtravel' which the lower cable cannot synchronise due to its limited travel. Symptoms would be engine dying going into gear in one direction but the other is ok.<br /><br />Hope I've analysed this correctly.<br /><br />Good luck.
