How would you describe good bunks?

[Florida]

I fish about 50 times a year. I need good bunks

I am thinking of the following,

Pressure treated 2x4's
SS carriage bolts (recessed in wood)
Silicone (to fill recessed hole)
SS hex nuts
SS lock washer
Outdoor carped with marine backing (Lowes)
SS staples (Arrow brand)
Marine carpet adhesive ( Where do I get that?)
A few strips of ripped cutting board with recessed SS screws (pending)

This project ought to be fun can anyone think of a problem with this.
Thanks

 

[foodfisher]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Do it. Silicone won't stick but it's a good cushion. Any carpet adhesive will work as long as it's exterior and cured. Curious as to the cutting board strips?

 

[bitterboater]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I don't see a problem either.
Just make sure the hangers that the treated two by's are bolted to are also hot dip galvanized so that they don't corrode next to the treated wood or begin to corrode after being dipped into the salt water.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

use stainless steel nylock nuts.

 

[spdracr39]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I have heard that pressure treated wood releases chemicals into the water and is not environmentally friendly. I'm just sayin' :redface:

 

[jeeperman]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I have heard that pressure treated wood releases chemicals into the water and is not environmentally friendly. I'm just sayin' :redface:

Perhaps over years in the water continuously.
But then dock pilings are a different type of treated wood.

To the OP, if your putting the cutting board strips on the entire length of the bunks, there is no point of installing the carpet too.

 

[Florida]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I could have been done by now but I read the pressure treated wood versus aluminum boat threads. Now I?m hesitant to use treated wood.

After an hour of searching forums I have gathered the following information

1) Never use treated wood because it will corrode the aluminum.

2) Never use untreated because it will rot

3) Cedar won?t last very long because it?s construction grade and not old growth heartwood full of resins.

I know for a fact that untreated will last less than a year in wet, hot Florida.
Painted wood and water sealed wood last only slightly longer.

Any ideas
thanks

 

[bitterboater]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Go ahead and use the treated wood for the bunks.
Treated wood will only cause a reaction with aluminum if it come in DIRECT contact. With either the carpet or the strips of hard poly (cutting board material), you won't have any problems.
Also, by the time the bunks are dunked into the water they will be close to dry. To further this along, look for the dryer boards at the Yard that you purchase this material at.
You can also place them in your garage or under a cover of some type to allow them to dry more as well before you begin construction of the bunks.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

The new stuff sold by Lowe's and Home Depot is bad for aluminum.

Around 2002, the old CCA treated wood was outlawed for residential use. So the big box stores generally only sell the new stuff.

The new stuff has a high copper content which reacts with aluminum.

You can use the old CCA treated lumber in contact with aluminum. It is generally sold as marine grade.

I would not be using the new stuff.

Carpet will not stop the leaching of the chemicals out of the lumber every time you dunk your boat. Unless your confident that the moisture barrier of rubber or plastic backing of the carpet will not develope a leak. I imagine the carpet trapped between the bunk and the hull will remain wet for days after dunking. Allowing chemicals to leach into the carpet and up to the aluminum boat.

 

[TerryMSU]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I agree with Jeeperman. If this is an aluminum boat then stay away from treated. In any case, if treated then get the special bolts for treated. Keep it away from the metal in the trailer, too.

On my small aluminum bass boat, I used untreated with the plastic skids and no carpet. That keeps the wood from staying soaked and deteriorating. (Or at least that is my theory.) I will let you know how that works out in a few years, but after about a year and a half I see no indication of any damage so far. In any case, it was a cheap and easy solution. If anything fails, I can reuse everything but the 2-by-4 bunks and the labor only took about an hour total.

TerryMSU

 

[mrdancer]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Instead of wood bunks, go with angled aluminum (aka aluminum "angle-iron"). Add PVC lumber (not composite) on top of the aluminum and you are good to go for an aluminum boat.

If the boat is fiberglass, then you can do carpet on PT wood.

 

[mfgniagara]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Doesn't all P/T have some copper in it? I thought the new P/T changes was to eliminate arsenic?

CCA = Chromated Copper Arsenate

ACQ = Alkaline Copper Quaternary

CA = Copper Azole

 

[Expidia]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Here is a similar thread where I had pondered the same question and had many responses.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=400883

I wound up taking the new bunks that were shipped to me apart and it was just plain untreated wood.

I gave them 3 coats of a glossy Polyethylene and put them back together with SS staples and SS screws.

I only got 3 seasons out of the ones that came with a new trailer, but I know the new ones I coated will probably last 10 years now

 

[JimS123]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Buy galvanized roller bunks. They will last almost forever because they will never even have to get wet, no harm to the environment or the boat, you won't need to get your feet wet and the big advantage is it will now be fun to launch and retrieve your boat, even if you are all by yourself.

http://www.iboats.com/Roller-Bunks/dm/*******.568526491--**********.069373553--view_id.40434

 

[fishrdan]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I used redwood 2x6 bunks on my last boat trailer and they lasted 10 years, then I got rid of it. Redwood is softer and bends easier than pine, but it won't rot out like pine.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Doesn't all P/T have some copper in it? I thought the new P/T changes was to eliminate arsenic?

CCA = Chromated Copper Arsenate

ACQ = Alkaline Copper Quaternary

CA = Copper Azole

Technically, yes they do.
But they all have different solutions, formulas, concentrations and types of copper.
Google treated wood and see.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

If you can get some cypress, that wood last just as long as the redwood.

 

[Silver Eagle]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

Next month I'm going to start getting ready for next season so, my first plan it to buy treat 2x4's and paint them with a good exterior paint maybe twice . then I'm going to cover them with that new plastic stuff that they sell at Easternmarine.com. then in the spring after the water warms up and it's in the middle of the week I'll unload the boat and replace the bunks. Also I'm getting rid of the surge brakes and gettin SS Disc brakes .With Raybestos pads. I was going to just buy a new trailer ,but this is a lot cheaper. After all I'm on SS.

 

[Benz Mondi]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I'm planning to order the synthetic bunk material for my Bayliner for $50 for the pair. How about those for you boat?

Al

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: How would you describe good bunks?

I fish about 50 times a year. I need good bunks

I am thinking of the following,

Pressure treated 2x4's
SS carriage bolts (recessed in wood)
[B]Silicone (to fill recessed hole)
SS hex nuts[/B]
SS lock washer
Outdoor carped with marine backing (Lowes)
SS staples (Arrow brand)
Marine carpet adhesive ( Where do I get that?)
A few strips of ripped cutting board with recessed SS screws (pending)

This project ought to be fun can anyone think of a problem with this.
Thanks

I would suggest not using SS hardware as it will still rust due to water being trapped in the holes causing a chemical reaction when in contact with the SS and no oxygen present. This is why screws always seen to rust inside their holes on your boat. Use galvanized, they are cheaper and designed for this application.

Don't fill the holes with silicons, it wont stick to PT, and then water will be trapped under it speeding oxidation of the metal.

Don't bother using carpet glue as it would be needless overkill. The carpet wont last any longer, be difficult to remove later and probably wont stick to the PT anyway.

The cutting board is a good idea but you might want to consider recessing it so that it is level with the surface if the intent is to act as wear strips. Otherwise, the boat will only be resting on those small pieces and not getting the full support on its hull - unless the strips are run nearly full length. And remember that the strips may act as "rollers" allowing your boat to self launch when backing down the ramp.

The cypress was a very good idea, and it will save weight on the trailer. Of course this may not be a necessary consideration.