Hows about an estimant on the cost?

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

I traded a 96 chevy blazer (i beleave the lowering kit was worth more than the truck itself) for a 15 1/2 foot 1976 arrowglass bass boat. She's a beut...lol. Has a 90 hp mercury 6cyl. Wires were corroded so i put a new harness in the motor. Man... the motor sounds good. I thought after i put the harness in I could just hop in the river and go. But after shopping around for parts for the boat and seeing some of the post here on iboats, I then realized, there is more to boating than I thought when u own a old @** boat. SOOO.....Did some research, and Thank You Frisco Jarrett (Ur vids and stuff are blessings for beginners). I would rather fix up an old boat than a car anyway. So I am going to replace the stringers and transom. Not sure what they look like but the boat is 150 years old so I'm sure it's a huge pile under the floor. I will remove the lid and cut up the floor pretty soon to check it out. Like I said, the boat is 15.5 footer, about 5 or 6 foot wide, and is a tri hull. The transom is about 3 or 4 foot tall. My question is, from the dimensions I gave, could someone give me a rough estimant on the cost of the materials? Also how long does a job usally take? Aslong as i get all the airbubbles out, I really don't care what it looks like. I will lay carpet on the floor. Thank you guys and iboats.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Hows about an estimant on the cost?

Is the floor soft? Have you tested the transom? If it isnt broke dont fix it. I know my father has run many many 70s bass boats with absolutely no problems. He has had a few 80 and newer rotted to crud, It is a dice toss. Drill into the transom from the inside as low as possible. Dry wood dont mess with it. If the floor is soft then check stringers. I spent about a grand to make my old baylinner ready for the water but I had most of what I needed and waited for deals on the rest. Good looking boat man.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Hows about an estimant on the cost?

Yes, it has a soft spot right in the center of the floor. Actually it was a hole ( bout a inch wide) and soft all around that. lol. The soft spot is about a square foot. I'm just preparing for the worst. I glassed over the spot and layed carpet. Then I started researching about this. oops! Also I heard some cracking wile i tightened the motor mount. I will work pretty steady on this project. How long did it take you to get your boat done proshadetree?

 

[tinkeringwackyone]

Re: Hows about an estimant on the cost?

Just an FYI, I am wrapping up a project on an 87 sea ray, 16 1/2 foot seville. new transom,stringers, deck, carpet. With fiberglass, resin, and other misc supplies I have about $2000 into mine. This does not include upholstery. I never thought it would take that much, but it does add up. Not to include 2 years of labor to do it, as life gets in the way of projects.

Good luck my friend

sail on.....tink

 

[proshadetree]

Re: Hows about an estimant on the cost?

I had about a year in mine. This boat was gutted long before I saw her so I had to make the inside work with no pattern or clue of how it looked.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

OK. Let me know if I'm missing something here. To build a new transom:
1: PL 2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood together. (actually it depends on the thickness of the previous transom) Let it set up.
2: Coat with fiberglass resin, edges and all.
3: Lay a layer of 1.5 oz. CSM
4: Tab transom to the hull, star, and port
5: Lay 2 layers of 1708
Should i leave a gap inbetween the transom and shell of the boat and fill it with PB? Thanks so much yall

 

[oops!]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Is the floor soft? Have you tested the transom? If it isnt broke dont fix it.

Should i leave a gap inbetween the transom and shell of the boat and fill it with PB? Thanks so much yall

first off......read pros statment again.....test that transom using a core sample.

as for the gap.....NO!!!!!

when you girnd out the old transom...ther are small voids left because of different grinding depths.
mix up some thin peanut butter, using powdered milled fibers...and 1/4 inch short strand.....take a bondo spreader or fat putty knife and smear that stuff on the inside shell of the boat. this will fill the low areas....dont get carried away....just fill the lows, with a quick swipe.
wait 5 mins till it tacks...then add your 1.5 csm.

on the hull side of the transom.....add another 1.5 csm......wait till both are slightly tacky....and install the transom.

i also suggest you dry fit the transom several times......get good at it....and when you can do it with your eyes closed go for it....

remember....if there is a gap between the transom shell and the new transom......you have failed, and the job is botched.

its not that hard.......dont over think it.....
you can do it.

cheers
oops

p.s. the link in my sig, has detailed instructions and pics. just use the index for transom installation.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Ok oops! Thanks for your reply. I will check out the sig. As for the transom check.....
See that bracket in my pic, I took one of the bolts out, beat on the transom, wood chips fall out. When I beat on the top half of the transom, sounds sort of hollow. Beat on the lower half, sounds solid as a rock. I bet anything it is nothing but mush at the lower part. By the way, I know I made the steps sound SUPER simple. Don't get me wrong OK.
Tink, it was probably worth it for you but I don't really want to spend THAT much on THIS boat. You could get your money back and then some if you sold it. This one of mine........well i could probably 2 grand out of it but, I'll just keep it till it rotts again. In the year 2025, I'll look like Bill Dance in the 80's.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Are those alum struts OEM ?? or did some PO Modify the transom to sister the well together because of transom failure ..

You need to R&R the transom with wood and glass. And no .. the one layer tab and 2 layers of 1708 will not cut the Mustard.

There are soo many posts and threads on How to re-trans or re-string here in Iboats .. vids,pics,step by step. Use the Search button and you will read for weeks on end. Pros and cons of just about everything.

I am thinking your not getting responses from us because your making it sound like you do not ( or cant afford ) to do it the Right way. ..

Start your tear out and we Will guide you .. Pics .

YD.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Well Yacht, I have read on this quite a bit I beleave. I have read about different ways to do this stuff, cut the top, pure what ever that is in the transom after you dig out the wood. Some people swear by epoxy because they say glass does not bond to glass as good or at all. Acually if this project ends up costing over a grand, then so be it. I'm just thinking if I spend money on this type of "hobby", is this a boat that I should work on. Maybe I should find a runabout or something like that. There is a mark twain up the road here but nevermind that because I've decided to do this ol' basser I have. I know it isn't a yacht, DR but its fine for me. I love to fish anyway. I might even shine up the flasher.

When I traded for the boat, I thought it just had bad cables and harness. Bought control cables, steering cable, and harness inside the motor. After all of this I thought I would be ready for the water. I realize its not and it needs ALOT of work. I'm going to try to pop the lid off by the weekend but between work and family, I might have to do it this weekend. The rub rail has rivets and screws in it so I will replace the, I guess u would call it cleats maybe.

I plan to use poly resin instead of epoxy. I beleave it will be fine if rough the hull up good. I will use mdo plywood for the transom. Cut it to size, dry fit, sand, dry fit, sand. Cake that with resin after I pl two peices together. I will wrap the whole transom with 1.5 oz csm. Use 1.5 inch strips for the edges. Just a little bigger than 1.5 I need to say. Fit the transom in the boat, pb (resin and chopped chopped strand matt) the gaps and fillet it out. Tab that in with 1708. I will lay down 1708 then do it again but the next sheet will be about maybe two inches bigger. This is what I have my mind set to do.

yacht, do you not think that is enough matt or what? From the looks of the original transom, seems to be fine my way.

Started to remove the o/b today but it started raining on me. I got the stand built and everything unhooked from the o/b done today anyway. I cann't hardly wait to get the lid off. I want to check this thing out.

OH yacht, I beleave the alum strut you were refering to is call a Jack plate. Not for sure though.

Well anyway, maybe I can get this thing on the water by next fall. Rather hit the spawn time but o'well. Peace, bug

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

No he's talking about those braces that are bolted from the transom to the splashwell. No way those are OEM and were surely installed because the transom failed.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

kinda looks like Modded well struts .. not a "jack Plate". Your motor is securely mounted to the transom ( for some reason off center as well .. did they move the mounts to help not squish the trans ? ).

I dont know what I stated in my last post that seemed like I was hammering ya .. only observations from across the web.

I could be wrong and I have been wrong before when looking at pics posted up. That is why there are Many helpful members here to cross exam the situation.

More pics are always appreciated .

YD.

EDIT: EZ Beat me to it lol

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Asfar as i know, the bracket is like a bolt on transom. I pretty good idea actually and built well, but I would rather do without it. And it does raise the motor up About 2 inches or more. As for as it being off center, i guess so if you guys say so. PO had the motor not to long ago. I do not know anyone in a 100 mile radius, that knows a single thing about this type of stuff. So I'm pretty much the first person to attempt this sort of thing around here. Local boat shop doen't even carry cables .

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

Ok..Im game on the looked off on the offset motor thing ( my bad on quick response/postings ) ..

Still looks like a modded trans ( what is that "oil plug" thingy on the back ?? ). I have never seen that before.

Not to say its not safe.. or not to say this guy ( welder ) came with a plan that "Modded" the trans.

But "why" is the question you should be asking.. not is this safe .. but why ..

Modded things come in 2 cats .. one is to Mod for a higher HP .. or save for now .

We dont know until the Mod is taken off and inspected.

It looks like a mod ..sounds like a mod.. bad or good we dont know for sure at the moment.

I dont understand Why they strutted the well/trans together. Mebbe they wanted a larger HP on there in concept ?

Every boat is different for the most part .. please keep us updated.

YD.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: Check my steps please

Re: Check my steps please

YD, I don't know, perhaps both. (You know we are a bunch of hill billies around here). I'm not for sure but I beleave the boat is rated for 95hp max, Has a 90 on it now. 76 model boat, 79 model mercury. boat is 15.5 feet long. I beleave the motor is large for the boat. Thats why I want to replace the transom.