I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

[wickware]

I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP this afternoon for it?s 2010 pre seasonal check-up. I have some concerns that I would appreciate some help with.

1. Changed the impeller that pumped since 1985, I?m not seeing a noticeable difference in the output (just above idle) but peace of mine?

2. Bubbles came from the bottom linkage side of my engine that d/n appear as exhaust from snout idling?

3. If I ground the wire connected to my thermostat, should my over-heating horn sound as a thermo test?

4. A fiber looking carburetor linkage/adjustment (last toward carb) appears split or does it come split?

Thanks In Advance,
JOW

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

"4. A fiber looking carburetor linkage/adjustment (last toward carb) appears split or does it come split?"

Here's what that looks like on my 90 HP Chrysler.

 

[wickware]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

Cracked part description: 1970 Chrysler 35 HP carburetor throttle linkage part (fiber looking) with internal threads for adjustment and locks with jam nut on one end and internal ball socket on the opposite end.

1. Thanks for the reply and good picture. Do you know the name/number and sources for the part? I have searched iBoat and sent them an e-mail describing the part. It is very common in the clymer Manuel but no name/number (that I could find).

2. Any thoughts on my other 3 issues, with all being ?peace of mind? issues vs real matters, I Hope!

3. The bubbles (center attachment) got my attention because they were not in the snout area or exhaust looking with engine running. A closer look today (with the water at that level vs above) shows they are coming from the top right bolt area on the leg?s joint up above the lower unit?s joint. I?ll check the bolt for tightness and possibly add RTV but this is not a real concern, Correct?

4. With the switch on and the thermostat acts as a ground (if working), I thought the horn would sound grounded. If this is true, I feel I need to check my horn directly to see if it's working, Correct?

5. Last, can the timing and advancing be checked on this engine with a timing light or static timing is best?

Thanks,
JOW

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

Cracked part description: 1970 Chrysler 35 HP carburetor throttle linkage part (fiber looking) with internal threads for adjustment and locks with jam nut on one end and internal ball socket on the opposite end.

1. Thanks for the reply and good picture. Do you know the name/number and sources for the part? I have searched iBoat and sent them an e-mail describing the part. It is very common in the clymer Manuel but no name/number (that I could find).

2. Any thoughts on my other 3 issues, with all being ?peace of mind? issues vs real matters, I Hope!

3. The bubbles (center attachment) got my attention because they were not in the snout area or exhaust looking with engine running. A closer look today (with the water at that level vs above) shows they are coming from the top right bolt area on the leg?s joint up above the lower unit?s joint. I?ll check the bolt for tightness and possibly add RTV but this is not a real concern, Correct?

4. With the switch on and the thermostat acts as a ground (if working), I thought the horn would sound grounded. If this is true, I feel I need to check my horn directly to see if it's working, Correct?

5. Last, can the timing and advancing be checked on this engine with a timing light or static timing is best?

Thanks,
JOW

Try this source:

franzmarine@aol.com

(I recently bought some gaskets and got them right away at a reasonable price.)

Check your yellow pages for some boat junkyards. You might be able to buy that linkage end for a few bucks. I found two boat junk yards by asking a local marine mechanic.

I am just getting back into boating after 35 years and am having to learn this stuff almost from scratch. I do not have answers for you on the other issues.

I have read the section in Clymer's on setting the timing. It's much more involved than on an automobile. Make sure your ignition points are in very good condition and set properly before anything.

I'm not sure you mean "thermostat" or "thermoswitch"? In my Clymer's manual the nomenclature calls the "Thermoswitch" a "thermostat". (Clymer's should hire people with some technical background, and then pay them more than minimum wage.)

Actually, it depends on whether you have a temperature sensor/sender connected to a gauge on the helm, or a temperature switch that sounds a horn. It is my understanding either one could have been equipped with the old Chryslers, depending on how it was ordered. Yes, if the temp switch senses over heating, it should ground and sound the horn or buzzer.

 

[wickware]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

I had a good follow-up today on my concerns:

1. Does anyone have a part # or name on the cracked fiber carb linkage I need (attached)? I had no luck locally.

2. The bubbles are at leg?s bolt at LU vs next joint up but goes away with higher RPM to the Snout?s exhaust.

3. Grounding the thermostat?s lead or pressing the horn button gave the meter a good 12 v sweep. Bad Horn!

4. The strobe timing light worked after I located TDC and marked flywheel and case. Looked good as indicated.

5. It?s time to find a horn and power test on the water while I chase some fish on local lakes and short outings. Plus, I'll cleanup the eng and re-grease.

Thanks in advance for any help.
JOW

 

[wickware]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

Today?s Follow-up:

1970 Chrysler 35 HP. Is it common for the horn to serve as the horn and over-heating alarm? Today, I discovered a bad/fried 6v horn in a 12v system. With the new 12v horn, the horn works and grounding the thermostat?s connection sounds the horn. When overheating the thermostat circuit works as a ground to the horn. I ran the engine 5 minutes (in the barrel) and the horn d/n sound. Plus I could hold my hand on the engine?s cylinder area or head but I w/n want to leave it constantly over a minute or so. Does that sound about right for the combustion area surface temp?

I found a name and number locally for the cracked carb linkage. Listed as a Mercury part, Ball Socket Kit, # 828514A1 (11.50), which would save shipping. It showed that the fiber connector snaps onto the brass stud/ball. Which means I hope to find the fiber section only or a used kit at half price. I have compressed the crack with a hose clamp and I d/n see any danger if it breaks (idle home or accelerate manually). Is that cheap, economics or what (when who knows if I?ll make a fishing trip or 100 trips)?

JOW

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

"I have compressed the crack with a hose clamp......"

How did it get cracked in the first place?

 

[wickware]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

I have no idea because I have never touched the linkage adjustment. I feel age, torque and heat here in TX might be involved. I?ll hope to clean my lazy grease jobs and the motor and who knows what else I?ll find. I hate the thought of power cleaning the motor with water before adding grease to all moving fittings. What is the best method to clean the motor and not add too much grease as I did? I have not cleaned the motor since I purchased it in 1985.

JOW

 

[DavidW2009]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

I have a grand total of about 2-3 months experience with Chrysler O/B's. I'm on a steep learning curve.

I do not know the best way to clean one up without damaging it. Right now, as I take parts off for repair, they get cleaned in solvent and dried with compressed air, if possible.

I'm thinking of removing all the electrical parts and pressure washing it. Mine is covered with resin soot from an external fire. It's pretty stubborn in places.

As for the cracked linkage, Check the tower shaft for binding. Clean and lube as needed. Check the throttle cam nylock nut for being too tight. I had to back off on this nut a tweak or two because it was causing the linkage to be hard to actuate. But you don't want it to be so loose the throttle cam has side play, either.

Check all the linkages for binding and fix as needed. I found the distributor housing bearing was causing way too much resistance to the linkage. After a proper greasing, I worked it back and forth until it freed up. Now the throttle linkage works smoothly and freely. Your linkage may have cracked due to excessive resistance in one or more places in the throttle/timing advance mechanism.

Imho, you need to find out where the linkage is binding and fix that before installing your new/used good part.

 

[wickware]

Re: I fired-up my 1970 Chrysler 35HP for 2010 check-up with concerns.

Thanks!

1. Power cleaning with a degreaser/solvent and soap and water is my automotive method but I hate to expose the boat?s wires to water. I feel I?ll get out the naphtha, a 1? paint brush, compressed air and get after the motor.

2. From all indications (operating and observations) I have never seen any indications of any binding vs age. I?m suspicious of the lock nut that I have never touched.

JOW