Ignition Problem

[jrcsped]

I have a 1989 Evinrude 88 Special, Model # E88MSLCER, Serial # 08263113.<br /><br />Recently purchased boat & motor. Wanted to know WOT so I purchased new tach and connection cable. Installed and plugged into the OMC control box. Put the boat in the water, started up ran great, showed WOT (wanting to make sure I have the right prop, very slow getting on plane). Noticed the light on tach not working, light on speedo was, so I very carefully attached a jumper from speedo to tach at the light post. Went to start the motor again and the key would not engage the starter. Pulled off the cover and with the key on, jumped the starter at the solenoid. Motor started and ran great, but the tach would not work. Turned motor off with key, turned key back on "no workie". I can turn the key on, jump start at the starter and it will run fine, but the tach will not work and the key will not engage the starter. Is there a fuse system inside of the OMC control box? I am about to take the control box apart and use my multi-meter to check for continunity etc. Dont know what else to do. I have ordered a Clymer Manual but until then, I had hope of fixing the problem. Two children in college and a teachers income will not allow me to "hire" the work to be done. Would appreciate it very much if anyone out here could give me some advice. Thank you in advance for you time, I know time is precious. Thanks<br /><br />jrcsped

 

[Goodoleboy]

Re: Ignition Problem

Welcome to the forum!<br /><br />Sounds to me that when you wired up the light to the tach. that you may have lossed a wire on the switch. <br /><br />Check all connections on the switch. If it was working before you instaled tach. should work again, Just by back tracking what you did.<br /><br /><br />Good luck!

 

[jrcsped]

Re: Ignition Problem

I tried to disconnect and back track on the connections but the problem did not go away. I really believe it must be something inside of the OMC Control Box. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Does anyone know if there is a fuse inside of the Control Box? I guess at this point the best thing to do would be to do a continuity test on the ignition switch.<br /><br />Thanks in advance for any additional help.<br /><br />jrcsped

 

[Seasport]

Re: Ignition Problem

Have you checked the main fuse in the motor? You may have blown this.

 

[Dmac58]

Re: Ignition Problem

Is the throttle pushed to far forward engaging the safety switch going to the post on the solenoid.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Ignition Problem

As Seasport states, check the main fuse. It's located close to the starter solenoid in one of the smaller RED wires leading from the solenoid.

 

[jrcsped]

Re: Ignition Problem

Gentlemen<br /><br />Thank you for the additional ideas. I would think that the motor would not run at all if the main fuse was blown. As far the throttle being pushed to far forward, I don't think that is the case because we can turn the key to the on position and jump start the motor at the starter solenoid.<br /><br />I pulled the control box open and pulled out the ignition switch. I wrote down all the color codes of the wires and where they were connected. I also pulled out the small square black cube with two male connectors. One had two purple wires attached to it and the other had a single brown wire that is attached to the other male stud and there is a black ground wire. <br /><br />There was considerable corrosion on the two male stud connectors on the small black cube and on the ignition wires. I cleaned all of them and have not had an opportunity to reconnect everything to see if it was a bad connection. I did a continuity check on the ignition switch and two connectors had continuity with the key turned OFF and a different two had continuity with the key turned ON. I have ordered a manual and I am waiting to see when it comes in if the switch is possibly good or bad. I am hoping to be able to determine which connectors on the ignition switch control the engagement of the starter when the key is turned on all the way - past the spring loaded position. I have to wait for the manual to come in unless someone can tell me which colored wires on the ignition switch control the actual engagement of the starter when the key is turned all the way. If I can find out which wires (by the color code) control the actual engagement of the starter (turned past the spring loaded position) I will know which terminals on the ignition switch to check for continuity. Also, if anyone knows what the little black cube is for and what it does, it might help me in my trouble shooting. Does the black cube control the starting of the motor in any way? Can the motor be jumped started at the starter solenoid if the main fuse is blown? I am not much on electrical issues, but it would seem to me that if the main fuse was blown, there is no way the motor would start or run. <br /><br />Let me clarify one more time: I can turn the ignition switch on one click, not to the spring loaded mode, and pull off the cover and jump start the motor at the starter and it will run just fine, but the tach will not work. <br /><br />I am sorry to be such a problem, but do not know who else to turn to other than you guys out there. Thank you in advance for your time and efforts. I truly do appreciate any help that can be provided through this chat site.<br /><br />jrcsped

 

[jrcsped]

Re: Ignition Problem

Gentlemen, today is Saturday 20 Aug 05. I installed a new ignition switch and that DID NOT fix the problem. I ordered and received a manual for my motor and have determined that the BLACK BOX OR CUBE is the warning horn. After I reinstalled the new ignition switch the motor would not start when the key was turned to the spring loaded position of START. Yet when we tune the key on only one click, we can still jump the motor at the starter solenoid and it will run but the tach will still not work. I rotated the throttle until the neutral switch was not engaged and checked for continuity and it seems to be fine, and I still cannot determint why the key will not start the motor without jumping it at the starter solenoid. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT SWITCHES ARE IN BETWEEN THE IGITION SWITCH AND THE STARTER THAT MIGHT BE BAD? I have the electrical schematic but I am having difficulty reading and understanding the pictures (electrical is NOT my strength). I just do not know what could have gone bad in the blink of an eye between the ignition key switch and the starter. Usually when you turn on the key the tach will drop to zero and then once the boat is started function in its appropriate manner. Not only will the motor not start, but the tach does not work. Any advice and or recommendations would be deeply appreciated. <br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />jrc

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Ignition Problem

jrc,<br />Now that you have the manual you can locate the fuse we have been telling you about.It is near the starter solenoid,usually.<br />Main Fuse may have thrown you off,but the replies were right.You can't crank without it.It supplies 12 v + to the ignition switch.Yes you can bypass it,and you are when you 'jump' the circuit as you state.<br /><br />DHP

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Ignition Problem

RUN! Do not walk to your near'st dealer

 

[KYHunter]

Re: Ignition Problem

I had same problem after finding a bare wire in the control box. I found it when I touched it and it grounded out and sparked.The motor wouldn't turn over . It was the fuse they told you about . Mine was a little glass fuse. I removed the fuse holder and installed one that has a cover and takes the small ATM fuses,they are much easier to find and it works great.<br /> KYHunter

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Ignition Problem

I'd suggest that you listen to what we're saying about the fuse. We do know what we're speaking of.<br /><br />The ignition on the engine is self contained and is refered to as Magneto Capacitance Discharge ignition..... meaning it develops its own power and is not dependent on battery voltage in order to function.<br /><br />The fuse we speak of simply provides power to the ignition switch. With the fuse blown or non existent, there is no voltage being applied to the switch and therefore no voltage will be applied to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the "start" position.<br /><br />With the key in the "on" position, the two (2) "M" terminals of the ignition switch ARE NOT shorted out (the kill circuit), and this fact enables the ignition circuit to function. Jumping the starter solenoid as you did cranks the engine and since the ignition circuit is enabled, the engine fires, starts, and continues to run until you turn the key to the off position.<br /><br />Now.... If you haven't replaced that fuse we speak of by now, I suggest you do so. You appear to have your mind made up as to what is not the problem and are blanking out what you're being told which is acurate advice.<br /><br />Now, if the fuse continues to blow, you have someting wrong that is drawing more than 20 amps which the fuse covers..... dead short, loose or faulty wiring, bad starter, something of that nature.

 

[G. Patton]

Re: Ignition Problem

If no voltage is at the switch because of a bad fuse, the tachometer would not have voltage going to it even with the key on so it couldnt work.

 

[Seasport]

Re: Ignition Problem

All symptoms (still) point to a blown fuse. Checking the fuse only takes a few seconds! The moral here is that you should check the simple things first (& listen to good advice from experienced people). I guess once you get your head around the fact that the motor will run without battery voltage, it all makes a bit more sense.