Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting up.

[bigred177]

Hi guys,

'74 inline 6 165 with 165 outdrive.

So I got the boat out to start getting it ready for the summer and had some funny issues come up. First, I think my ignition switch is bad. After I ran it on the muffs I went to kill it and when I pulled the key out the engine just kept running . I had to pull the coil plug to get it to stop. Also when I hook the battery up the coil get extremely hot even without the ignition on. The lights on my gauges also comes on.

Next, when I checked the shifting it went into forward fine but it doesn't go into reverse until I'm starting to get into the throttle. Is there some kind of adjustment on the shift cable?

I need a brass drain plug on the exhaust manifold. I picked up a 1/4" NPT brass plug but it's too big. Does anyone know off their head what size it is?

Finally, when my RPMs approach about 2800 my water temp. gauge will fall back to the bottom peg. Once I let it back down to 2500 or so the needle starts registering again. I didn't push the engine any higher to see if the needle would come back but I thought that was strange.

While I have you here, when I try to trim the O/D up the pump will just click. The drive is all the way down but when I push the down button nothing happens. I haven't checked the fluid yet so I'm sure that's the problem. I just wanted to throw it out there to see if something else might be up.

Every one of these issues was not present last year when I put it up. Maybe I should just keep using it year around.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

Hi guys,

'74 inline 6 165 with 165 outdrive.

So I got the boat out to start getting it ready for the summer and had some funny issues come up. First, I think my ignition switch is bad. After I ran it on the muffs I went to kill it and when I pulled the key out the engine just kept running . I had to pull the coil plug to get it to stop. Also when I hook the battery up the coil get extremely hot even without the ignition on. The lights on my gauges also comes on.

Next, when I checked the shifting it went into forward fine but it doesn't go into reverse until I'm starting to get into the throttle. Is there some kind of adjustment on the shift cable?

I need a brass drain plug on the exhaust manifold. I picked up a 1/4" NPT brass plug but it's too big. Does anyone know off their head what size it is?

Finally, when my RPMs approach about 2800 my water temp. gauge will fall back to the bottom peg. Once I let it back down to 2500 or so the needle starts registering again. I didn't push the engine any higher to see if the needle would come back but I thought that was strange.

While I have you here, when I try to trim the O/D up the pump will just click. The drive is all the way down but when I push the down button nothing happens. I haven't checked the fluid yet so I'm sure that's the problem. I just wanted to throw it out there to see if something else might be up.

Every one of these issues was not present last year when I put it up. Maybe I should just keep using it year around.

Ayuh,.... Yer lower shift cable might adjust, but more likely it's Worn Out,... too much slop, not enough travel,...

Yer manifold drain plug is probably 1/8" pipe thread,...

The electrical problems are probably corroded wirin' ends for the trim pump, donno 'bout the key switch,...

 

[bigred177]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

I filled up the trim pump and it was indeed low. Went to try it again and it still clicked. I started messing with the wires from the sending units and both of them disintegrated in my hands. Should the trim pump still operate with the trailer override button pressed without signals from the senders? Or will it not work until it gets the signal from the sender that matters? I checked all of the other connections and everything else looks good.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

I filled up the trim pump and it was indeed low. Went to try it again and it still clicked. I started messing with the wires from the sending units and both of them disintegrated in my hands. Should the trim pump still operate with the trailer override button pressed without signals from the senders? Or will it not work until it gets the signal from the sender that matters? I checked all of the other connections and everything else looks good.

Ayuh,... The pump should still operate with the trailer button,...

'n Lookin' at the wirin' don't count, ya gotta remove the wire ends, clean 'em to shiny metal, 'n reassemble 'em,...

With yer funky temp gauge, Recheck, 'n Clean the Ground connections, both at the battery, 'n at the motor,...

 

[bigred177]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

I took a 12 volt lead and hooked it to the green "down" wire; nothing happened. I hooked it to the blue "up" wire both on the solenoid (it clicked) and directly to the pump wire; nothing happened. I checked the ground on the pump and it checked good. Is my trim pump dead? Is there any way to check?


I also was able to get the shift cable to adjust enough to put it in gear. I did it like the manual said with the exception of putting the bolt into the engine interrupt cam. I'm hopeful it comes out of gear next time I'm in the water. Is there any way to test it out of the water?

 

[bigred177]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

I took the trim pump off to test it on the bench today. Hooked it up to 12v and it gave a little grunt and then no more. Checked continuity from ground to both up and down wires and don't have anything. I took the motor off to see if I could clean it up any but I wasn't able to get it going again. Does anyone know of a good rebuild shop in Austin, TX?

While I had the pump out I figured I'd give the reservoir a good cleaning. I'm sure glad I did. The entire thing was full of ANTS!!! Looks like a couple thousand came out with the fluid and I'll post a picture of the strainer and the body tomorrow. They're caked.

I pulled the outdrive off for inspection again and there is a big rubber ring that was around the out drive side of where the drive shaft goes in. It looks like it seals up against the bellhousing when everything is put together. Anyway, it was pretty chewed up. I didn't notice that last time I had it off. What could have caused that. I'll get a picture tomorrow.

Anyone know the secret to running wires under the deck? One of my nav lights came undone from its crimped connection somewhere under the deck. There aren't any access holes to try and find the other end.

 

[bigred177]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

Ants in my pump. It's hard to see inside the little cylinder, but they're packed down in there all the way to where the screen would be. I'm stumped on how they got in there.

 

[bigred177]

Re: Ignition switch bad(?), reverse issue, exhaust manifold plug, temp gauge acting u

So many vent holes. Where should I route all of my vent tubing? I know the tube on the stern goes to the blower and should go to the lowest point in the bilge. The black vents on either side have two holes to run tubes and the chrome vents also have holes. What would be the best way to run all of the tubing from these holes?