ignition switch issue

[McL0V3N1121]

I have a 1966 sterncraft mercruiser 120 4 cylinder and I recently re-wired all the wires. it wouldn't even turn over before but now I have it to where with the key in the ignition switch it wont even try to crank but if I arc it at the starter it will crank. how can I test the ignition switch and what else should I test if it ends up not being the ignition switch.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

There is a "sticky" at the beginning of this forum called Adults ONLY......

------------ADULTs ONLY -------------------------No Exceptions-----
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...es-outdrives/295720-adults-only-no-exceptions

check out #6 in that link to the sticky.

 

[Bt Doctur]

you start by having 12 volts at the "B" terminal of the ign switch
then turning the key to on ,you should have 12 volts at the "I" terminal,
power from the "S" terminal powers up the slave solenoid that powers up the starter solenoid

 

[McL0V3N1121]

Ok that's what I needed to know, thanks for the help guys.

 

[McL0V3N1121]

I checked the "B" terminal and it has power but when I turn the key to the "on" position it loses power to all the ports on the ignition switch. It re gains power to the "B" terminal after about 30 seconds. What could cause this ?

 

[McL0V3N1121]

I know the neautral safety switch has 2 wires coming out of the shift control box, but they're not hooked up to anything and the wires are so dry rotted I can bend and break them, could this cause anything like this ?

 

[alldodge]

I checked the "B" terminal and it has power but when I turn the key to the "on" position it loses power to all the ports on the ignition switch. It re gains power to the "B" terminal after about 30 seconds. What could cause this ?

I know the neautral safety switch has 2 wires coming out of the shift control box, but they're not hooked up to anything and the wires are so dry rotted I can bend and break them, could this cause anything like this ?

Sounds like you have some corrosion and rust going on. Just replace the key switch and start cleaning up the connections. With a 1966 model there is no neutral safety switch used, the throttle control has been replaced

 

[McL0V3N1121]

Well I could be wrong on the "neutral safety switch" I just read a bunch of ignition problems and in every one of them I keep seeing it pop up. On the throttle shifter control I see 2 cables and in the back it has 2 wires so I assume it is the NSS, but could be wrong. My first step is to replace the ignition switch now though. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Bondo]

My first step is to replace the ignition switch now though.

Ayuh,..... Yer 1st step should be cleanin' away the corrosion that's screwin' up yer switch,....

The switch can't switch if there ain't no power goin' to it,....

Start at the battery terminals, 'n clean to shiny metal Clean, All the wirin' connections,....
Then the other end of those wires, Same thing,... Clean 'em of corrosion,.... discoloration is corrosion,....

 

[McL0V3N1121]

I replaced all the wires and got new wire ends on it and cleaned all the contacts with a wire brush. I believe the gage is actually out

 

[McL0V3N1121]

I tested the gage according to a post I found on here. Tested the ignition switch, terminal "B" has power with key off. Terminal "I" is supposed to have power when turn the key to the on position, but when I turn the key off, it loses power to all the terminals. Which from what i understand my ignition switch is out.

 

[Bondo]

but when I turn the key off, it loses power to all the terminals

Ayuh,..... My point, exactly,.... Take a hammer to the key switch, 'n smash it to bits, 'n the wire that attaches to the B terminal, should Still show battery voltage,....

The switch can't switch power, that ain't there,....

Ya musta screwed up yer rewirin' job, Somewhere,....

How 'bout all yer Grounds,..?? Are they shiny metal Clean,..??