Ignition Switch Troubleshooting Help Needed..........

[mrcj001]

1976 Evinrude 70 hp

Turn the key and just barely hear the solenoid click.

As per the service manual everything passes until step 3 & 4

With key is start position and test the "S" terminal , I`m getting 5.7 volts (step 3) it says if no reading go to step 4. Should that be 0 volts or the 5.7 volts?

With key in start position and test the (B) battery terminal I get 12 volts...if it does this it says the switch it bad

Tying to figure out if its the ignition switch or neutral safety switch.........just need someone to check my work before throwing money at it.

 

[Joe Reeves]

To test the ignition switch in your case........ simply run a small jumper wire from the "B" (Battery 12v) terminal to the "S" (Solenoid) terminal. If that causes the starter solenoid and electric starter to engage, replace the switch.

If the solenoid stil simp[ly clicks... and you are absolutely sure that the battery is good and fully charged... start cleaning "all" of the cable and wire end terminals of the starter system and the componentes they attach to, then retighten them securely... including the actual battery terminals.

 

[mrcj001]

Thanks Joe,

I jumped the terminals like you said and it DID engage the solenoid. Me thinks bad switch. (low voltage coming out of switch.) My battery reads 12.6 volts on my volt meter and on the boats gauge.

I notice that replacement safety start switches are NOT available.....should I go ahead and bypass the switch now while I have the remote apart?......tired off getting caught out on the lake with no start conditions.

Also, is there another safety start switch on this motor?

Just so you know, I had the starter brushes replaced and a new solenoid replace a few weeks ago.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Thanks Joe,
1 - I jumped the terminals like you said and it DID engage the solenoid. Me thinks bad switch. (low voltage coming out of switch.) My battery reads 12.6 volts on my volt meter and on the boats gauge.
2 - I notice that replacement safety start switches are NOT available.....should I go ahead and bypass the switch now while I have the remote apart?......tired off getting caught out on the lake with no start conditions.
3 - Also, is there another safety start switch on this motor?
4 - Just so you know, I had the starter brushes replaced and a new solenoid replace a few weeks ago.

1 - I assume you mean that the starter engaged and cranking the engine. If so, replace the ignition switch.

A suggestion... remove the positive cable from the battery before working on the switch replacement to avoid shorts, possible damage to your charging system, etc.

2 - I find that you are correct that the safety switch #385659 is NLA... found it hard to believe though. However, no worries as I have a couple left and dealers will still have a slew of them left over too. However, yours is still okay no doubt. They just get ever so slightly out of adjustment over the years and one finds that they need to jiggle the throttle handle to get them to make contact. THe cure is to slightly loosen the screws that attach that switch... shove the switch up closer to the cam that actuates it, then tighten the screws... good for another hundred years!

3 - There is NO other safety switch on that engine.

4 - Good for you... Preventative maintenance.

 

[mrcj001]

The starter didn't engage.....just a faint solenoid click. Even when I activate the choke there is barely enough voltage to activate it.

 

[Joe Reeves]

The starter didn't engage.....just a faint solenoid click. Even when I activate the choke there is barely enough voltage to activate it.

As per my reply post #2.................

If the solenoid still simply clicks... and you are absolutely sure that the battery is good and fully charged... start cleaning "all" of the cable and wire end terminals of the starter system and the components they attach to, then re-tighten them securely... including the actual battery terminals.

To test the electric starter... Run good known jumper cables directly from a good known fully charged battery to the electric starter. If this cranks the engine over properly, the starter is okay. If not, replace the starter... BUT... make very sure that battery and jumper cables are top notch items!

Your mention about the electric choke cause me to question the battery and/or the cable terminal ends condition.

 

[mrcj001]

I had to re-power the boat about 5 years ago with this 70HP...I gutted all of the old battery cables and unused wiring and replaced everything with new. Had the battery cables special made at my local battery sales shop. Had them seal the ends with shrink tubing and made them out of 8 gauge. Then I made sure that everything was FUSED.
I noticed with the switch in the on position,I`m only getting 5.7 volts out to the accessories. Last time out,before heading back to the dock, I`m hit the key and nothing.....I kept messing with the key in the switch and it finally started. Then at home on muffs, it did the same thing but now wont start at all.
something else, the key never would stay in the switch. I actually had to tie the damn thing on a cable so I wouldn't loose it. I have a new switch coming so we`ll see.

 

[mrcj001]

Oh yes....I jumped the starter with cables from the boat battery and spun like a top.........

 

[mrcj001]

Put the new switch is last night and fixed the problem...a shorted out switch. Gave up after 41 years.

I appreciate the help Joe.....thanks!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Put the new switch is last night and fixed the problem...a shorted out switch. Gave up after 41 years. I appreciate the help Joe.....thanks!

And the warranty ran out just last Friday huh?