Igniton switch

noah4009

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 6, 2008
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283
I have a 1971 55hp Chrysler. The parts manual shows a switch with 6 terminals code letters M I M S C B. The ignition switch on my boat has 6 terminal with the letters M I M S A B. The only difference in the letters is the C on one and A on another. C being for choke. So is A on my ignition for choke then. Can I use the igniton thats on it now? Also with the 2 terminal with 1 on top n 1 in the middle, which 1 is letter A and which is M Because the A and M are between the 2 terminals
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Igniton switch

If you have a voltmeter (VOM) then it becomes simple. With the battery (RED) attached to "B", push in on the switch with it in start or run position. The terminal that has 12 volts will be "A" This will most likely be the Choke terminal and I suspect it would be the center terminal if the switch is "push to choke"

The two "M" terminals are isolated in run or start position and have continuity in stop position. This is the stop circuit for magneto engines and all electronic ignition engines EXCEPT Chrysler black box Motorola.

So, with the switch off, if you know one of the "M" terminals, the two terminals that have continuity (0 ohms) are "M".

"I" is ignition and supplies power from the battery only when the switch is in start or run position. It is used to power points and battery ignition or Chrysler Motorola electronic, overheat indicator, and gauges.
 

noah4009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
283
Re: Igniton switch

HI
Its 5am, Have to go to work. But on the switch on the boat, (sure u remember me and the boats pass mechanic LOL) Had the red to b, yellow to s, and blue to ignition, which were right. Just had these other wires hanging. Will check out you advice this evening and get back to you, big big help. Thank You
 

noah4009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
283
Re: Igniton switch

If you have a voltmeter (VOM) then it becomes simple. With the battery (RED) attached to "B", push in on the switch with it in start or run position. The terminal that has 12 volts will be "A" This will most likely be the Choke terminal and I suspect it would be the center terminal if the switch is "push to choke"

Hi I did connect the choke wire to it and when I push the igniton in. You can hear a clicking sound and the first plate in the carberator go down, but very very little. It does not close all the way. It is horizontal at first then you push in the ignition and it goes down maybe 1/8th of an inch. I see no way this can choke the engine.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Igniton switch

Let's see---The choke solenoid is usually either good or bad, no in between. So, if it is working at all, then you need to look elsewhere. The choke plate should snap shut fully. Push on the plunger with your finger to see if it is binding and if when you depress it the choke closes fully. The only resistance you should feel is the return spring. Spray the shaft with WD40--it may have gummed up with old oil. If that doesn't loosen it, unscrew the choke plate and pull out the shaft. Then clean everything. Note the position of the choke plate. The edges are beveled and it only goes in one way.

If you push down on the plunger, it should go all the way into the solenoid. If it does not, clean out the hole. If the plunger is not almost all the way out (about 2 inches) with the choke open, then look for mis-adjusted or bent linkage or even an incorrect choke rod that is too long.

If all is well, then jump 12 volts to the positive terminal on the choke. If the choke now closes fully, then look for a partially broken wire or a high resistance connection somewhere not allowing the solenoid to get full power.
 

noah4009

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
283
Re: Igniton switch

you push down on the plunger, it should go all the way into the solenoid. If it does not, clean out the hole. If the plunger is not almost all the way out (about 2 inches) with the choke open, then look for mis-adjusted or bent linkage or even an incorrect choke rod that is too long.

Everything else checked out. Then I noticed the plunger sticking out about 1/2 inch. Loosened screw, adjust to about 2inches (as you suggested) Presto. Works great. Something so simple. Just hate to try something with no knowledge. Thats where you come in. ;) But man this motor has not ran for years and thanks to you and the forum It is running. Now I need to change the impeller this weekend.:eek:
 
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