Re: Installing Brake Lines
Yes -- disc brake calipers move on their rigid mounts -- a small amount but enough to require connection to the system via the flexible hoses. The backing plates for drum brakes do not move -- they are mounted securely to their rigid mounts -- so are usually plumbed directly with the "hard" metal tubing. Use a hose from the hard line secured to the trailer to the axle tube. The hose terminates in a "T" fitting. The T fitting and the associated brake lines should be ABOVE the axle tube. Depending on how close the T fitting is installed to the caliper on one side, you might be able to run one of yout two shorter hoses from the T to the close caliper or you may need a length of hard tubing. The other caliper will be far enough away that you will need hard tubing from the T to close enough to the other caliper to make a connection with your third hose. Now -- do NOT cut the hard tubing -- even if you have a double flaring tool and know how to use it. Unlike a car (at least the earlier ones that I worked on) that use single wall brake tubing that can be field double-flared, marine brake lines are double wall and can not be reliably double-flared in the field. Use ONLY the factory flared tubing ends. Instead, check the cupboard for a jar with about the right diameter (I'd suggest nothing smaller than 2 inch) and use it as a form that you can SLOWLY wind the excess lengths of hard tubing around. Besides shorting the tubing, winding it allows the tubing to enter the area in one direction and neatly exit in the direction needed to mate with the other tubing/fittings, etc. The windings should be close together -- like a closed NOT stretched spring. Now, get yourself some stainless steel "tie-wraps" (just like the plastic ones used to hold wire bundles together). You can find these at any automobile speed shop since they are used to hold insulating materials on exhaust components. They are needed since the plastic ones will eventually break due to UV caused deterioration. The point is that you do not want to be drilling holes in axle tubes since it weakens the tubes and acts as a site for accelerated corrosion. Make sure that you use enough of the stainless steel tie-wraps to make sure that there is no chance that the tubing and fittings can vibrate or otherwise become detached from the axle tube. On yea, use on or more ss tie-wraps to secure the coils of your bent tubing together and at least one or either side of any coil to prevent it from vibrating (concentrated weight of the coil). If you do it this way, you won't compromise the strength of the axles, will have a nice neat installation that minimizes the possibility of road debris snagging the lines, and you won't have tubing connections that leak once made up tight (two wrenches, please). BTW -- I use only stainless steel brake lines on my trailers. Hope this helps.
