Interior Restore with Finished Wood

smiles16

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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So you guys answered my questions with the soft floor on my Sea Sprite (bow rider), now I am curious about interior options. BTW this is a freshwater boat.

The bow's interior is original and in good shape, so I plan to keep it that way. However, console on back to the stern is trashed. My thoughts were to redo all of the padded vinyl paneling with stained and sealed wood like a classic Cadillac. Only the seats will be vinyl.

Is there any reason this is a bad idea? If not, any suggestions on materials?

I want to keep it cheap, simple, and durable.

-thanks!
 

DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
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Aug 19, 2010
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1,305
It depends on what type of wood you select, how you prep it and finish it. Is it doable? Of course it is
 

smiles16

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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Are there any faux wood products out there that won't break the bank? Maybe cut up some of that "wood" paneling they sell in the big hardware stores?
 

DeepBlue2010

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Aug 19, 2010
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If you are comfortable working with wood, head to your local wood working supply store. Most of the carry scrap mahogany. It will not make a nice piece of furniture or bathroom vanity but if you cut it carefully, it would be enough to get you one hell of a console
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Wood can add that extra look if cut, molded and finished in a professional layout. Post some pictures of your present setup and your ideas and let us see what you are talkng about. Then we can offer ideas and suggestion. JMHO
 

smiles16

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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Out of town for the next couple days so Ill try to load pics when I get back home. Not working from my phone
 

Ned L

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Sep 17, 2008
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Sure it can be done, and there are a number of ways. Remember, "durable" is a relative term. Generally speaking it will require more maintenance, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Varnished wood ceiling will require a sanding and a coat of varnish every year to two, but can last decades and decades if maintained. (ceiling is the correct name of the finishing material on the inside of the hull, ... in many cases vinyl covered plywood panels). Vinyl covered plywood panels need nothing annually, but you probably have a sense that after a decade or two you have rotted mush that needs complete replacement. So which is the better deal?
 

harleyman1975

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Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
959
if you were to encapsulate the wood in epoxy and then lightly sand it with 320 grit and have an auto body shop spray 3 coats of automotive clear it would be much more maint. free. the clear coat is a uv protectant for the epoxy which would yellow if left unprotected..
 
G

Guest

Guest
I have a 1974 Hiliner 222 that I restored, I used varnished mohagany (Oakum) panels to replace the interior vinyl, and she looks great. I went crazy with it and did the dash panel and cockpit combing as well. The 4 x 8 Oakum panels are not cheap, but if you sand and coat them with clear epoxy resin, then varnish them with a good marine polyurethane, they can last years.

20150712_130539.jpeg
 

harleyman1975

Ensign
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May 12, 2003
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You mean Okume? Oakum is the stuff they use to caulk old wood boats. Think it is made out of flax and cotton...Ned L?
 

smiles16

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Jul 25, 2016
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Hmm I figured there would be more maintenance involved, but it sounds like the price point may still be with vinyl.
 

Ned L

Commander
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Yep, Okume is the plywood, and oakum is the caulking, lol.
Okume can be finished bright and look quite good. It is relatively pricey.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Yes Harley and Ned, I stand corrected , it is Okume.. I won't say that its not labor intensive, but its not as bad as a lot of folks think.

The very first time you install it is the probably the most labor intensive, after that, its just sanding once with 220 and re-coating. That varinished interior you see in the pic of my boat has been there since 1996, when I installed it.
 

smiles16

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Jul 25, 2016
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Well guys I can't get these pics to upload, so I guess I have all the info here I need. Will definitely look into that okume. Thanks!
 

Grandad

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Jun 7, 2011
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I want to keep it cheap, simple, and durable.

Those are often conflicting requirements. I have used vinyl, varnished mahogany, plastic decking and Formica laminate. Be cautious about where you use real wood. Painstaking effort to create the Cadillac wood trim can be trashed in seconds by someone wielding something sharp or maybe heavy such as an anchor. I found Formica laminate is a good compromise if you value durability. An anchor might scratch it too, but the scratch will be much smaller and the waterproof surface won't be pierced like varnish or other clear coats. Here's a pic of some areas I've used it. Lots of color and grain choices. - Grandad

 

smiles16

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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186
I REALLY like that Grandad! And my runabout has that same back curvature. I am definitely going to look into this. Where did you find your materials? Are there any special steps in regards to installation in a marine environment?
 

Grandad

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Jun 7, 2011
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I REALLY like that Grandad! And my runabout has that same back curvature. I am definitely going to look into this. Where did you find your materials? Are there any special steps in regards to installation in a marine environment?

Any big box lumber store will have the materials. I got some of mine at a surplus building materials store. This stuff is used in wet locations, so no special marine considerations. Doesn't seem affected by sunlight. I wouldn't leave edges and corners submerged in standing water, but few materials would tolerate that. By nature, laminate will only bend in uniform directions, so it's not the best choice for compound curves. It comes in two thicknesses. The thin stuff can be scored with a knife and will snap along the scoreline, but it's more fragile to work with, especially in large sheets. The thicker gauge is easier to handle, but you'll need to cut it with a table saw. It attaches to clean surfaces using a coating of contact cement.

Plan your installation and work carefully. Do small edges first before big surfaces to keep the 1/32" thick edges from showing. After applying, a trim router makes quick work of overhanging edges, then a light rub on the corners with fine sandpaper and you're done. It's been traditionally used for countertops that get daily wet use for many years. I actually used it to coat all sides and edges of my replacement plywood transom to make it impervious to water intrusion. Some more details in the rebuild thread link in my signature below. And no, I'm not connected to Formica or Arborite, just think they're good products for this. - Grandad
 
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