Interrupt switch.

[danhenke]

2010 Bayliner 185BR Flight
3.0 Mercruiser, Alpha one


Hey fellas, I was chasing a short today, which I found, but instead of engaging the shift interrupt switch, I pulled it off the cable plate to test it. I see it has slotted holes for a reason. I put it back on and did a continuity in both forward and reverse, shows it closing in both directions. How bad did I screw myself.

it never gave me any issues shifting in an out of gear, and I’m aware it can’t be adjusted without it being in the water with a load on the prop. Is there a preliminary setup that it needs, or should I just mess with it in the water when I get it out next?

Dan

 

[lister]

I dont get that switch, mine doesnt seem to work at all either. Cant see how the slight movement of the cables are supposed to move that huge switch

 

[danhenke]

I dont get that switch, mine doesnt seem to work at all either. Cant see how the slight movement of the cables are supposed to move that huge switch

Mom sure it’s not rocket science, I’m sure I’m fine, but I keep trading one problem for another. In all honesty I’m sure it’s ok, I haven’t even put it in the water yet, just trying to quell some anxiety.

 

[nola mike]

It shouldn't close in either direction without a load on the prop. It SHOULD close in both directions on the water. It works because even though you only have slight movement of the cables, when coming out of gear on the water there's a lot of resistance to movement of the cables. Start by positioning the switch so the roller lies in the valley of the shift arm at rest. When you move the arm up or down it should close the switch. Assuming you have the pushbutton version on your year boat, should be similar.

 

[danhenke]

It shouldn't close in either direction without a load on the prop. It SHOULD close in both directions on the water. It works because even though you only have slight movement of the cables, when coming out of gear on the water there's a lot of resistance to movement of the cables. Start by positioning the switch so the roller lies in the valley of the shift arm at rest. When you move the arm up or down it should close the switch. Assuming you have the pushbutton version on your year boat, should be similar.

wait, while on the trailer, it shouldn’t trip the switch when moved forward and reverse? only with the engine running and on the water it should trip momentarily until the y bar snaps back?

it IS the push button type switch by the way,

 

[nola mike]

wait, while on the trailer, it shouldn’t trip the switch when moved forward and reverse? only with the engine running and on the water it should trip momentarily until the y bar snaps back?

Correct.

 

[danhenke]

Correct.

ok so....... just a background, the way I “set” it back, was pulled the wiring, and used my DVM in continuity mode, and ensured it closed forward and reverse.

From what hat you’re telling me, I’m cool until I get wet again, once I try to shift in revers on the water, it’ll die, but I can make the adjustment then, is that the gist?

it doesn’t seem that hard, but seems it’s a very minute adjustment. I completely understand the interrupt theory of operation, just trying to get it in the best position prior to hitting the ramp again.

thanks

 

[nola mike]

ok so....... just a background, the way I “set” it back, was pulled the wiring, and used my DVM in continuity mode, and ensured it closed forward and reverse.

From what hat you’re telling me, I’m cool until I get wet again, once I try to shift in revers on the water, it’ll die, but I can make the adjustment then, is that the gist?

it doesn’t seem that hard, but seems it’s a very minute adjustment. I completely understand the interrupt theory of operation, just trying to get it in the best position prior to hitting the ramp again.

thanks

No, if it's tripping the switch on the trailer you've got other issues. Did it trip before you started messing with it? That Y plate shouldn't move at all when you're shifting on the trailer.

 

[lister]

well damn, this is good information and makes me feel better, I'll have to watch it next time im in the water.
I always thought I heard the engine cut for a second when shifting but wasnt sure as it does basically nothing on earmuffs
THANKS!

 

[danhenke]

No, if it's tripping the switch on the trailer you've got other issues. Did it trip before you started messing with it? That Y plate shouldn't move at all when you're shifting on the trailer.

no, nothing else going on. It moves, end of story regardless. Boat ran great yesterday all day my bus the small electric issue when the interrupt switch was engaged when shifting to neutral that was caused by a short at the coil. That is now fixed. As I said, I erroneously removed the interrupt switch to test it, instead of leaving it mounted to the plate.

 

[danhenke]

If you’re meaning the actual plate, then no, it’s not moving. The Y mechanism that trips the interrupt switch IS moving with the throttle and shift cable as it is supposed to do.

 

[Bt Doctur]

The Y mechanism that trips the interrupt switch IS moving with the throttle and shift cable as it is supposed to do.
ONLY IN THE WATER, COMING OUT OF GEAR

 

[Bt Doctur]

I always thought I heard the engine cut for a second when shifting(NORMAL) but wasnt sure as it does basically nothing on earmuffs (NORMAL)

 

[danhenke]

I always thought I heard the engine cut for a second when shifting(NORMAL) but wasnt sure as it does basically nothing on earmuffs (NORMAL)

yeah man, it BARELY moves while it’s on the trailer. I’ll gwt it figured out. If I backnit in the water tomorrow, and it won’t go in gear, or dies, I’ll just back the screws out for the interrupt switch, and start adjusting it while the engine is running. This isn’t real hard, it’s just a fine adjustment.

 

[Bondo]

it BARELY moves while it’s on the trailer.

Ayuh,..... Yer lower shift cable is Failin',......

It won't get better, but will continue to get Worse,....

That linkage shouldn't move at All, while on the wagon,.....

 

[danhenke]

Ayuh,..... Yer lower shift cable is Failin',......

It won't get better, but will continue to get Worse,....

That linkage shouldn't move at All, while on the wagon,.....

Thos whole thread is WAY out of proportion now, I’m not sure I could back it up now if I tried. I respect all of your opinions, but at this point I can say they’re wildly misplaced.

all I did was remove the interrupt switch to engage it because I didn’t know to leave it in place and engage it with a screw driver.

I was chasing a short circuit that would blow an ignition fuse when I went to neutral. The short was at the coil. I found the short at the plug where the pins were mashed together. I straightened the pins, installed the plug and a new fuse, engages the interrupt switch and the short was cured.

all I was trying to find out, is if there is a starting point to install that push button interrupt switch that would get me in the ballpark of it functioning properly before placing it in the water.

in the big picture, sure, I’m sure the lower shift cable is failing. I’m sure the entire thing will fail over time.

point is, the boat ran properly yesterday, it would just short that fuse when pulled to neutral. Shifted in and out of reverse just fine, it didn’t die because of the interrupt switch, it died because the interrupt would close and pop that fuse. There’s no arguing that.

sorrybif I wasted any of y’alls time. I’ll look closer at the Y bar,

 

[danhenke]

Ayuh,..... Yer lower shift cable is Failin',......

It won't get better, but will continue to get Worse,....

That linkage shouldn't move at All, while on the wagon,.....

https://youtu.be/346JS1EvkQQ

hardly moves, if any at all....... I went back and looked at it again. You got my senses tingling.