Is this the correct carburetor for my engine? (95 3.0lx merc)

[Nextelbuddy]

So I bought a used boat (1995 regal valanti 182SE )....story my life and it started up with the water attachment running water to the engine with no issues on the day I went to purchase it... Finally get on the water the next day and had just put in about $15 of 89 octane gas ethanol not non-ethanol... Kick myself in the butt for that one.

engine idles fine but on the water with any kind of load the engine would die pretty instantly giving any type of throttle.

To the air cleaner off inspected the jets tried to bring some carb cleaner and still had the same problem afterwards....

Decided to pull the fuel filter It was the original stone filter and changed it out and the problem got a little bit better but still the engine was falling flat in it's face.

also change the distributor cap and the rotor new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Still no power up top.

I can't tell you what the RPMs are at wot because the RPM gauge and the speedometer gauge are not working unfortunately

There's no water trapped in the hull, we have let all the water drain out over night

Called the previous owner up because they told me the engine was running perfect... Now they tell me that prior to the boat sale They made the choice to rebuild the carburetor themselves and haven't had the boat back in the water since the carburetor rebuild... They were very short with me and I couldn't really ask any more questions.

So at this point I don't know if I really want to try to troubleshoot somebody else's possible rebuilding mistakes.

I know my engines serial number (OF604166) and did a Google search based on that serial number and found that the part number for my carburetor based on the engine serial number is 3310-8M0045397

I saw the carburetors were running like 800-1200 dollars for brand new ones so I found this website that show the carburetors were remanufactured units for $335

https://www.marinecarburetors.com/pr...3310-8m0045397

I've emailed the owner of that website asking a few questions but they're very short with me or they just don't answer the question So hopefully I don't get taken.

I noticed in the text of that carburetor listing it mentioned some type of electric choke but I never saw a choke anywhere and my boats set up. So now I'm worried that find me a possibly got the wrong carburetor so I'm hoping someone here can look at my setup engine serial number and the listing tell me if that carburetor will work or not.

Thank you for any help

 

[Scott06]

That little. It of ethanol gas won’t be an issue as long as you burn through it vs letting it sit for a year.

Most rebuilds that don’t work out means that either the car wasn’t truly cleaned out - all passages with carb cleaner and blown with compressed air and having a thin wire put through them- or something like the float level is not set right. Choke can also stick closed causing over rich condition. Your carb will have an electric choke.

personally I think you are better off going through a rebuild and properly setting it up. Otherwise if you are not co ride to I. The place you identified Have you looked through the carb selections here are I boats?

 

[achris]

So I bought a used boat (1995 regal valanti 182SE )....story my life and it started up with the water attachment running water to the engine with no issues on the day I went to purchase it... Finally get on the water the next day and had just put in about $15 of 89 octane gas ethanol not non-ethanol... Kick myself in the butt for that one.

engine idles fine but on the water with any kind of load the engine would die pretty instantly giving any type of throttle.

Most engines, even with serious problem will idle fine, it's under load they fail, and why you should ALWAYS test drive a boat. Would you buy a car without a road test?

To the air cleaner off inspected the jets tried to bring some carb cleaner and still had the same problem afterwards....

The only way carb cleaner works is to strip the carb down and spray it through the passages. Spraying it down the throttle barrels is useless.

Decided to pull the fuel filter It was the original stone filter and changed it out and the problem got a little bit better but still the engine was falling flat in it's face.

also change the distributor cap and the rotor new spark plugs and spark plug wires. Still no power up top.

Did you at least check the engine compressions before buying? If not, do it now. Also check the spark quality and timing.

I can't tell you what the RPMs are at wot because the RPM gauge and the speedometer gauge are not working unfortunately

That's one of the things we check on a water test, all instruments working correctly.

There's no water trapped in the hull, we have let all the water drain out over night

If the foam if water logged, it won't drain out overnight.

Called the previous owner up because they told me the engine was running perfect... Now they tell me that prior to the boat sale They made the choice to rebuild the carburetor themselves and haven't had the boat back in the water since the carburetor rebuild... They were very short with me and I couldn't really ask any more questions.

They have your money, they are no longer interested in talking to you.

So at this point I don't know if I really want to try to troubleshoot somebody else's possible rebuilding mistakes.

I know my engines serial number (OF604166) and did a Google search based on that serial number and found that the part number for my carburetor based on the engine serial number is 3310-8M0045397

That's the right number for the right carb, and yes, it has an 'automatic' electric choke.

I saw the carburetors were running like 800-1200 dollars for brand new ones so I found this website that show the carburetors were remanufactured units for $335

https://www.marinecarburetors.com/pr...3310-8m0045397

I've emailed the owner of that website asking a few questions but they're very short with me or they just don't answer the question So hopefully I don't get taken.

I noticed in the text of that carburetor listing it mentioned some type of electric choke but I never saw a choke anywhere and my boats set up.

If you're looking for a button on the dash or control marked 'Choke', you won't find one. The electric choke is on the carb, and it's run by the ignition circuit. Soon as you turn the key ON, the choke element is heating up...

So now I'm worried that find me a possibly got the wrong carburetor so I'm hoping someone here can look at my setup engine serial number and the listing tell me if that carburetor will work or not.

Yep, done that, it looks like the right carb for your engine.

Chris............

And :welcome: to iboats...

 

[BigWeakSauce]

marine engine dot com is an excellent resource for part numbers if you want to make sure you have the right one.

 

[Nextelbuddy]

That little. It of ethanol gas won’t be an issue as long as you burn through it vs letting it sit for a year.

Most rebuilds that don’t work out means that either the car wasn’t truly cleaned out - all passages with carb cleaner and blown with compressed air and having a thin wire put through them- or something like the float level is not set right. Choke can also stick closed causing over rich condition. Your carb will have an electric choke.

personally I think you are better off going through a rebuild and properly setting it up. Otherwise if you are not co ride to I. The place you identified Have you looked through the carb selections here are I boats?

thank you very much for the reply. though i would love to get my hands dirty with a carb rebuild (it would be my first time) I just dont have time to dive into that with 2 other car projects house projects and work unfortunately. i always love how to do thing DIY when possible though.

thanks for the confirmation of the electric choke

Most engines, even with serious problem will idle fine, it's under load they fail, and why you should ALWAYS test drive a boat. Would you buy a car without a road test?

it just seemed like a giant PITA to ask a seller to take me to a lake to test drive it but lesson learned on my first boat purchase i wont be so naive in the future.



The only way carb cleaner works is to strip the carb down and spray it through the passages. Spraying it down the throttle barrels is useless.

Understood and that makes a lot of sense


Did you at least check the engine compression before buying? If not, do it now. Also check the spark quality and timing.

Compression test will be coming up soon but no we did not check compression prior to purchasing the boat.



That's one of the things we check on a water test, all instruments working correctly.

again first time boat newbie mistakes



If the foam if water logged, it won't drain out overnight.

good point and i will leave it for a week or 2 tilted up with drain plug out to let it air out as much as possible



They have your money, they are no longer interested in talking to you.

yup very true, every seller is different. I just know when I sell my used car projects i always let the buyers know they can always ask me anything in the future. they will never know my cars like I did after building them and i am happy to answer their questions but again not everyone is the same and like that i suppose. I just expected if someone said a boat was running perfect that it would at least run and then not be told later "oh yea i did rebuild the carb but never tested it back in the water" and in my head im like... why rebuild the carb if it was running perfectly ad why didnt you mention it that before, what else are you hiding.



That's the right number for the right carb, and yes, it has an 'automatic' electric choke.

its possible i may have my engine serial number incorrect, the one i was given by the owner appears to pull up a different variant of the 3.0lx because it keep showing the engine to have a closed loop cooling system which is weird so now i dont know if i can trust the part# for the car but ill cross my fingers.



If you're looking for a button on the dash or control marked 'Choke', you won't find one. The electric choke is on the carb, and it's run by the ignition circuit. Soon as you turn the key ON, the choke element is heating up...

awesome thank you for confirming that



Yep, done that, it looks like the right carb for your engine.

Chris............

And :welcome: to iboats...

marine engine dot com is an excellent resource for part numbers if you want to make sure you have the right one.

thank you for the reference page!

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have only encountered one carb that I could not rebuild.

spend the $35 on a kit, the $30 on a bucket of berrymans and spend the 2 hours to R&R&R the carb (Remove, rebuild and replace)