Issues since VRO died....are they related?

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
I have several questions that I’m hoping you all would be generous enough to help me with. We picked up another boat last year and I’m still trying to work out quite a few things yet. Here we go and thanks in advance!



1) Earlier this summer our VRO pump went out and a shop converted it so now we have to mix our own gas. The mechanic told me the boat would actually run better with it converted as well. And they also replaced the fuel pump as well as he said that was bad too. The boat does seem to top out faster and run better at higher speeds but since they converted it we’ve noticed a few things. 1) It still doesn’t seem to want to start very well, and seems like it could be worse since the conversion. Could any jets, etc need adjustment after the conversion? 2) Now it’s like we have to push the throttle forward a couple inches before the motor seems to engage, this DEFINITELY was not the case prior. 3) Not sure if it’s related but our fuel primer bulb doesn’t ever seem to get hard.

Thanks so much and I would appreciate any advice and please let me know if I need to give more information on anything?
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,954
Well, the engine usually doesn't run any different when the VRO is removed, unless there was a vacuum hose leaking or a ruptured diaphragm, which in your case may be the reason for the new fuel pump. The VRO system was actually very well engineered and made, and is blamed for a lot of things, few of which are it's fault. But hey, an incompetence parts changer(some call themselves Mechanics), if he makes wholesale parts replacements, may actually fix a problem. There are many reasons for hard starting; poor technique, inoperative enrichment system, leaky crankcase and/or crankshaft seals, low compression, fouled plugs.
The first few inches of Throttle lever movement are going to be gearshift, after that it becomes a throttle control. Perhaps the cables are out of adjustment, or they may have been before and are now set correctly.
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
ugh I've spent so much money on this boat. A different shop replaced some seals as we were leaking oil/gas into the water, not sure if those would be crankshaft related or not though. It's a 1993 70 horse Johnson. Compression was just tested and they said good, I'll have to check the numbers as I believe they are on a receipt. Could a bad primer bulb be an inoperative enrichment system?

Thanks
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
My cold start procedure would be...pump the primer bulb until it gets hard if it gets hard then crank it....I'm feeling really dumb for not knowing if there's more I should be doing lol
 

schematic

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,102
engage fast idle on the control, then crank a cold engine with key pushed in to enrich.
Try that.
Its more common to have a CDI pack fail on that model than the VRO. Check for spark when cold....The timer can also cause cold start issues.
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Sorry for my ignorance but how do I engage the fast idle? I also wanted to mention that the last time out it would also struggle to start after we were out on the lake and had stopped to fish for a bit, often times not even for that long only 15 mins or so...and some times we will be going along at a decent rate and it will sputter out and die...is that leaning towards the CDI pack that you mentioned?

Thanks All!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,888
There are a number of issues that play out for that " hard to start " cold blooded motor complaint.------There is a lever on the common control box that raises engine speed by opening throttle.-----Bad starter /. battery cables / battery will mean marginal cranking speed.----Motor may have a " quick start " feature that electronically advances timing for cold start.----See if it has that and see if it is indeed working properly.----Some controls have a button that needs to be pushed to get " throttle only " on the lever.-----Post pictures of your control.----Inspection and testing needs to be done.----Installing parts as a guess is expensive.
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Sorry its been a few days, work has been crazy with school starting! Here's a pic of our controller if that helps and yes as you say I have to pull on a button to get throttle only and normally I'll indeed us that when starting it on launch but just didn't think that it would be needed every time I start the boat as it seems to struggle to start or stay running even after having it off for 20 mins or so.
 

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