Javelin 85 hp. No spark

[paxton33]

Hey guys. Hope I'm posting in right place. I have a 1975 air slot 165 with a javelin 85 hp outboard. Last weekend i had my boat in the river. Was running beautifully. To day i launched my boat in the river and it wouldn't start. I now have absolutely no spark. I've disconnected the black and yellow wire. No change. Any ideas??? Could my trigger or stator go bad that fast?? Thanks guys any help appreciated.

 

[emdsapmgr]

I assume you mean the engine cranks, but will not start.... Likely an ignition problem. On that 75 model, you've got a number of expensive ignition components, any of which can fail, esp considering the age of the engine. Fortunately, there is an excellent webstite for specific ignition problems for your year: cdielectronics. You may find this information helpful as you try to diagnose the "no spark" condition. First of all, that engine must crank at least 250 rpm's in order fire the ignition system. The troubleshooting guide section for your engine starts on page 29. This website shows you the cranking output voltages from a number of the critical components. Those are excellent to work with. You will need a special "peak reading" voltmeter in order to measure these cranking outputs, however. Considering the expense of these components, it is worth your time spent to do some troubleshooting first, then replace only the bad components.

 

[paxton33]

Thanks for the website info. As for the peak reading voltmeter. I have a power point tester. Maybe it will work?? And to add to my problems. I didn't know it in the beginning. My motor wasn't running so i never tried the shifter. I have single handle johnson command center. My shifter is hung. I guess someone was playing with it. But i got it to move. But it only moves throttle. I was trying to check neutral switch when I found this out. Is this something that would cause no spark? If not centered on start position? I'm going to take control apart to day to see what i need then start testing ignition system. I think it's got to be something simple since was running when I came home. Then not running when I put back in the river. Thanks again

 

[emdsapmgr]

You can do a test in order to determine if the problem is within the control box and it's wiring. Disconnect the control box at the red plug under the cowling. Jump start the starter with a set of automotive jumper cables and a known strong battery. The engine should crank normally. If you get fire at the plugs when you do that, then you know the problem is not on the engine or it's engine-mounted wiring harness. Look at the control box and it's cable, even the start switch. With this test, you aren't really trying to start it, just to see if it will fire. If it does start for some reason, you have no way to stop it, unless you block off the carbs or pull the 4 plugwires. If you still have no fire when you jump start it, then the problem is on the engine.

 

[F_R]

I'm not sure we are understand you completely. You say you cannot move the shifter. Well, by design, you cannot move the shifter while the fast idle lever is raised. Even then, with the fast idle lever all the way down, you may not be able to move the shifter if it is not running. Things have to be moving (running) in order to the gears to fit together as you shift. I doubt there is anything wrong with the control, so don't take it apart--at least not till you are sure it is broke. BTW, if not running, you should still be able to shift by twirling the prop--things have to be moving.

As for the spark, if it cranks (starter runs when you turn the key), it should have spark. And the safety switch does not affect the spark, only cranking.

 

[oldboat1]

How did you check for spark? Usually the assumption goes the the other way, but maybe there really is some spark contrary to what it seems, maybe intermittent spark. Maybe not spinning fast enough to generate sufficient spark (weak battery, connections, failing starter....)

Let's see, keyswitch -- maybe possible to crank (starter circuit), but no spark owing to key switch ground fault (ignition shorted).

 

[paxton33]

I disconnected the red plug on harness today. Still no spark. Put a new battery on. Still no spark. Disconnected yellow wires on rectifier. Still no spark. I still need to test trigger and stator. Was charging when came out river. As for shifter the t handle will move forward not backwards. Reverse. I pulled neutrel saftey switch wires are cut. I guess previous owner bypass. I did continuity test on all wires. All passed. So has to be in trigger or stator right. And I'm testing spark by holding plugs in hand and touching motor. Going to pick up a spark tester in next day or so.

 

[emdsapmgr]

If you have a timing light, you can use that as your spark tester, when cranking. The rectifier is not part of the ignition system-it's part of the charging system. Different systems that perform different functions. You should qualify both the stator and the timer base first. If both of these output correct voltages, then look at the power pack. If you go by the cranking outputs on the CDI website, you will see that the stator should output a minimum of something like 150 volts. The timer base will output something like 0.3 or 0.6 cranking volts, depending on which year you have-check their specs for the exact outputs.

 

[paxton33]

Update.... tested stator and trigger. Showed good. Found a guy just south of me had three of these motors for parts,got the switch box. And fired up in about three spins. Running like a new one again. As for shifter it was the high idle lever that had my shifter hung. Headed to the Mississippi river deer hunting in the am. Thanks for all the info and web address. Happy boating.....

 

[emdsapmgr]

Strictly on a percentage basis, the power pack is by far the most likely culprit when you have a no spark condition. Problem with that logic is that if you buy a new pack before you qualify the stator and timer base, it might be just a huge waste of $. Your analysis technique served you well.