Johnson 33 hp 1967 sea horse

[Gwrose]

I have a 1967 Johnson 33 hp I’m restoring and had some odd wiring done to it and really would appreciate some advice.... I’ll have a photo .... someone used an electrical cord and spliced it into the cut off ...... I just am wondering if the cut off needs 12 v to run properly????

 

[F_R]

To answer your direct question, no the vacuum cut-out switch does not need 12V. In fact, 12V would destroy an ignition coil.

That cut-out switch has to be one of the most mis-understood critters out there. It's ONLY purpose is to slow down a motor that has gone into a run-away mode. Other than that, it never does a darn thing. You could actually remove it and throw it away, except someday you might find yourself with a motor that is revving and you can't slow it down---not a comfortable situation, to say the least.

 

[Gwrose]

Well thank you so much the previous owner had this thing all wired odd how can I wire the motor to the kill switch without that vacuum disconnect .??? And do I Capp that vacuum line ??? Please and thank you ..... I have to get new coils because those ones were bad ...... new points and just start with new parts ... I have a feeling when I did the resistance test that he cooked them by plugging that into a boat battery.....

 

[F_R]

Let's back up, is it an electric start motor?

 

[Gwrose]

No it is just a pull start

 

[F_R]

Sorry, I won't tell you how to remove a safety device. But I will tell you how it is supposed to be. Same as this 28hp. It ain't exactly rocket science.

 

[Gwrose]

Awesome thank you very much ..... I think I have it back to normal now that’s awesome!!!! Safety first !!! .....

 

[Gwrose]

I can’t seem to get spark on the top plug after new coils and points can you help please

 

[Gwrose]

Wires are good I have continuity and just seems like something isn’t working properly..... I tried a new kill switch and I tried switching the wires from the switch around I haven’t had any luck getting the other plug to fire .....

 

[Gwrose]

I tested the run away vacuum switch by providing vacuum and with a volt meter seeing that it functions what would prevent the top plug to not spark ??

 

[F_R]

Did you clean those new points? They often have an invisible non-conductive coating on the contacts. Other thoughts, include a spark plug wire arcing through where it is clamped under the armature plate and/or points gap---are they opening and closing as they should?

The vacuum switch cuts out the lower cylinder, so it isn't that.

My bet is on the points.

 

[Gwrose]

What position do you set the points ??? Like where do you have the magneto ??? Like on start ??? Or wide open ???

 

[racerone]

Trust me / us----It simply does not matter.-------You are setting the points to open at the correct time for maximum spark.------Timing relative to piston travel looks after itself.----Some will argue but these are the facts.----It does not matter full throttle or slow idle !!

 

[Gwrose]

Thanks got it running had to scrap that stuff off hahaha and watch the love closer !!! But how do I know if it’s circulating water is there a pee hole ????

 

[Gwrose]

Watch the lobe closer and really do a good job there .... it was a big help to clean those points .... thank you very much .... I figured they should work well .. but I was wrong

 

[Gwrose]

Thanks your the best !!!

 

[oldboat1]

http://ww2.iboats.com/Gearcase-Group/dm/cart_id.103693387--session_id.211761969--view_id.1549600

 

[Gwrose]

I got the impeller and water pump working properly and now when I rev it up in forward it will want to go then just kinda sputter and rev up a bit then down and do that then die is it something to do with the carb setting ??

 

[Gwrose]

[No message]

 

[oldboat1]

Can't tell if the carb assemblies are complete -- should be a low speed adjustment needle on top, and a h.s. needle on the bottom. The initial setting for the l.s. needle is 1 1/2 open from lightly closed. About 3/4 open for the h.s. needle. Adjustment is made from those settings.