Johnson 9.5hp mq-13

[Timkenneyjr]

Ok so I have been following leeroy for specs as I’ve worked on this motor and checked posts on here quite often when in doubt and have successfully brought this motor back from the dead, details on that another time, right now I’ve found a little milk coming out the weep holes and under further inspection some milky oil around one of the 6 gearbox bolts. So I pulled the lower unit to inspect seals and such because shortly after I got her going I was involved in a bad wreck at work so I hadn’t had the ability to really tear down for awhile so I was procrastinating on the impeller( working fine just not being as proactive) I drained the oil which was basically snot and dropped the lower unit to disassemble the gear case. I had a plan to change the gearbox spaghetti seal, o-rings around the bearing case and such, and the impeller while I was in there. I also suspected driveshaft or shiftshaft bushing leaking as the milk came out the weep holes above the gear case. And under further inspection found caked water/oil at the shift shaft bushing.
That all being said I went to unbolt the skeg portion and the trouble started.. now, to prevent question, I did remove the pivot bolt first and I used a ratchet and socket drive flathead to start the bolts as I assumed (correctly) they would be sticky, 4 came out buuuuuuut one broke off flush with the skeg and another the top split like I’ve never seen before.. I’ll post pics.
As I’m not sure what I should do with this bolt as far as what is manageable. Can I drill flush to skeg and still remove the bottom cover to get a better “bite”? It doesn’t appear the bottom is threaded just inside the other cavity.
Also, is there another option for these bolts or are they a specialty hardware only? They are very expensive over $10 a piece and I’d rather replace all but I can’t afford 65-70 bucks for 6 little bolts.

 

[Crosbyman]

try a dremel tool to grind away the obstructing bolt heads if all else fails


you may have a chance to grab the remains studs after splitting the lower half but soak soak soak the threads to help
unscrewing the studs. you can also try to apply some heat to allow some infiltration of the release agent

work slow….patience brings joy

in the end..you may need to drill and retap for a tad bigger bolts (I like stainless with teflon tape...some don't )

reseal as per instructions

 

[Timkenneyjr]

I didn’t even think about using dremel, I’ll return with results this afternoon. Is the case material on these pot metal or aluminum cast?

 

[Timkenneyjr]

Ok so I got everything cleaned up, took some time as my wife is a nurse so I have the baby but I was able to get the remaining bolt sections out, they came out quite easy with vice clamp after drilling the remainder of the one head and removing the skeg! Phew! One thing I ran into though is the need for a special tool to remove the brass shift shaft bushing and replace. The marina next door suggested tapping the brass and using a bolt to extract and then same to install and just pack the new threads in the new bushing with grease seemed fishy no pun intended

 

[racerone]

There is a special tool.----Or run a 5/16-NC tap in there for about 3 full threads to pull it out.-------Some will argue,---- but I have replaced that o-ring without removing the bushing.----???----If you were replacing the bushing why would the marina suggest to tap the new bushing.---That makes no sense at all !!