Johnson 90 hp - lower unit oil change - do i need washer for either screws?

ib18

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Johnson 90 hp - lower unit oil change - do i need washer for either screws? Today, I decided to change the lower unit oil for my Johnson 90 hp V4 outboard. So, I removed both the bottom and top screws to drain the old oil but I didn't find any washer in either screws. Is this correct? Looks to me from the picture below, Top screw (#45) has a washer part #46, however bottom screw (part #53) does not seem to have washer. If there is, the part list is not showing the washer part # separately. SO, I plan to buy a washer for the top screw only. OEM # 0311598 - Washer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMdQAvq7eZU
 

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boobie

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BOTH screws need the 311598 washer !!. Dig around the screw area in the gear case and see if a washer is stuck there. Don't always believe parts break downs.
 

Bosunsmate

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pump the oil up from the bottom hole.
Dont touch the philips head screw, it will mess with the gears and you will need to take the gearbox apart to fix it
 

ib18

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Thanks for your response. Am I ok to use this SAE 80W90 oil? It says on the label for 75 HP and below. What would be the harm if I use this oil instead of SAE 90?
 

racerone

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The philips head screw ( some were socket head set screws ) has nothing to do with the gears at all.-------It is there to prevent the pinion bearing from moving up and out of place.----The screw does have an o-ring on it and it is very easy to replace.-------That philips head screw can be taken out and put back in all day long without any disaster occuring
 

Vic.S

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The first screw you removed in the video the Philips headed one is not the drain screw..It's the one that holds the pinion shaft bearing in position as Racerone says. It should have an O ring seal on it! Fit a new one

The drain screw is lower down, tucked in under the bulge in the gear case, and is a slotted screw like the top one..# 53 in your diagram

Both should have flat nylon washers. They can sometimes stay in the hole, sometimes come out with the screw. Be sure to remove the old ones and fit new ones.

Your pump should fit the lower hole to refill.

The "Premium" oil is for motors under 75 hp. The oil for larger motors is "High Performance" oil. You should not mix the two types
.

If the oil is free of water it will be "clear and bright" in appearance, not milky, It should only be slightly darker than when new!
 
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racerone

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I believe the orinigal post says that the fill and vent screws were removed and he was cautioned about the philips head screw.--It was said that removing the philips screw is an absolute no, no which of course we know it is not !
 

Vic.S

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I believe the orinigal post says that the fill and vent screws were removed and he was cautioned about the philips head screw.--It was said that removing the philips screw is an absolute no, no which of course we know it is not !
Your Are Right... I watched the video which shows him taking out the bearing retaining screw!
 

racerone

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Some of these videos are nothing short of amazing.---Less than 1/2 the oil was drained !!!-Love to see part # 2 on this one !----I have said it many times.---Such an easy job that it can be done the wrong way !!
 
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ib18

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Your Are Right... I watched the video which shows him taking out the bearing retaining screw!

Oh oh, looks like I didn't remove the correct bottom screw? Ok I will check again tomorrow
 

joetheis

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I do over kill when I do a lower unit oil dump.
New washers (or "O" rings), teflon, tape on the threads and then after all is done, I take brake clean spray the area and dab a dab of silcone sealer over the filler/ drain plugs.
I had a Yami 9.9 that was a real pain in the prop to seal tight, till I started doing that.
Joe
Remember to take any advice I give with a can of beer er 2!
 

ib18

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Oh, boy I found clear water draining out of my lower unit. I can still turn my prop, but not sure if any of the parts are bad. So, I will fill the oil when I get the washer (no washer in either screws) and take it to the water and run it a bit this weekend and drain the oil again to check whether I can find water again.
I am also changing the impeller, so I hope with new seal. The lower unit won't have any water in it.
 
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bobsquatch

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I have found lower units to be pretty resilliant. Fill/Flush with diesel. Refill with good oil. Run for a day and check for water now that you have the gaskets on. If no liquid water comes out after sitting over night just drain and refill each trip until your oil looks perfect then monitor it. You may be fine.
 

racerone

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Not surprised as " video " # 1 showed small drops of water coming out the bearing retaining screw hole !
 

Vic.S

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Use the correct washers on the drain and level screws and an O ring on the Philips headed screw

Don't use ptfe tape just the correct sealing washers,
 

ib18

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Screwing the pump adapter in will be the best part.

Yes, I found that out that's why I had to stop and break the video into 2 parts while I look for the right pump adapter for the silly bearing retaining screw (Phillip screw). Of course I couldn't find one but I kept coming back to your posts and then I realized what an idiot I was. Now, the pump adapter fit and ready to pump oil into it after I drained the lower half of the oil - mostly water and dirty oil! Water didn't mix with the oil as milky - I was wondering why?
 

Fed

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You're going well mate.
Maybe the old oil was the wrong type and didn't emulsify with the water.
Have a very careful look for the washers stuck in the holes, get a little pointy thing and have a gentle scratch around in there.
 

racerone

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Perhaps this gearcase needs a full tear down and inspection.--Running with that much water can not be good for gears and bearings.---Pressure test ????
 

ib18

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success - found the washer for both screws by hand tighten them and then unscrew them with my fingers, the washers just came back out with the screws. Amazing trick.
I was able to pump the oil in, but 32 oz (1 bottle) oil was not enough??
 
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