Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

[Thompy_04]

Ok, the Johnyrude is runnin good lets get that down.... yet I'm running hotter plugs than I should. I don't idle much mostly WOT and some midrange. Is this gonna hurt my motor in the short or long term? Shop was out of JC4's so went a plug hotter. Also I'm finishing up my wiring on my ignition switch. What guage wire should I use coming from the battery and to the starter? Also what guage should I use all inbetween from the actual switch to solenoid? Also the two wires coming from the armature plate actually shut off the motor. Can I splice these two wires together and shut them both down? My ignition switch only has 5 terminals and I was just gonna put them both to that one terminal..... Sound ligit? Thanks a ton guys.

 

[petrolhead]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

Those two wires from the armature plate are the kill switch wires, they cut the motor by connecting the two coils together and they earth each other out. If you splice the wires together your motor will never run! You need to connect them to two terminals that are connected when you turn the switch to OFF.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

Champion J6C is an option on that engine instead of J4C. It's a little hotter and should be safe to use. What plug do you actually have in there?<br />The starter cables should be at least #6, but #4 would be better especially if they're long. For the solenoid start circuit, run #16 or #14, but if you're talking about the batt terminal, run #10 to it.<br />On your ignition switch, you should be able to just tie one of the kill wires to the kill switch terminal and the other to the ground terminal, and not ground the ground terminal. What keyswitch do you have, and what are the terminals labled?

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

I have the NGK equivilent to the J6C, marine mech ran out of J4C's, first of all. Secondly my marine mech didn't have any ignition switches so I bought one from Autozone, I know I know NEVER use auto parts for marine they're not made to handle the rigorous standards for marine use. But my mechanic said it would suffice. Its a 5 post ignition switch, and figured somehow I could make it work with a little help on here. I believe its labled Batt., Ignition, Ground, and Accessory. Any help? Or is this ignition switch a lost cause?

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

One more thing.... Obviously water pressure is going to lower engine rpm, and is noticable on this motor. I've read that if the waterpump isn't submerged that it won't run properly. Is this true? If I step out of my boat the rpms go up, and then when I get in they drop, dramaticly. I've done a carb tune and can't get it to its "sweet spot" on the idle side that is. Could my link and sink still be off? Pain in the neck to do a link and sink on this booger. Small places for not so small hands... Please tell me its not this!

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

^Bump^

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Johny 18 Spark Plugs and ignition wires.

I think the ignition switch is a lost cause. You need one that'll connect two of the terminals together when in the 'stop' position, and automotive ones don't work that way. Send that one back to Autozone.<br />Idle and link&sync should be unrelated on your engine, since at the lower throttle settings the carb is fully closed and you're just changing the spark advance at that point. So there really isn't any syncronization there. In the midrange is where it's important.<br />You may want to search around for crankcase airleaks and such if you're having trouble getting it to idle right and you're confident about the carburetor rebuild.<br />The water pump normally needs to be sumberged at idle to function right. Just make sure you've got water pumping out the back at all times (idle and WOT) and you're good to go. I take it you're not submerging the exhaust relief port on the back of the engine when you get in the boat?