Keel Roller Bracket Drags

[jayhanig]

I recently noted one of the keel roller brackets under my trailer was broken and replaced it with one like this: specifically the 12" one piece bracket. What I discovered at the boat ramp yesterday is that the bottom of the bracket drags horribly as I transition from the flat approach to the sloped portion of the ramp. Everybody looked at me like I was dragging my skeg or had just dropped the boat; certainly not the Capt. Cool launch and recovery I prefer.

It only dragged with the boat on the trailer so I suspect I don't need much more clearance to make the transition ninja style.

The depth of that plate is 7 inches. Does anybody know of another 12 keel roller bracket that might not hang so low below the frame?

 

[alldodge]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Looking at your pic I would say your bunks are to low and need to be raised. Your only (I'm guessing) about 2-inches off the cross member, which would be good for the roller, but the hull should be another 2-inch off that. What am I missing?

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Yep... just launch the boat and adjust everything up 1"

 

[jayhanig]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Yep... just launch the boat and adjust everything up 1"

Don't I feel like a dummy? That never even occurred to me. I may have to order a couple of bolster brackets since the present ones are already at their limits, but larger ones are easily located. What kind of nuts are used on those things? Can they be reused or do I need to plan on getting new ones?

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

nuts? on the roller and bunk brackets? just loosen n tighten em... unless stuff starts breaking

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

I'm not sure I understand why you guys think his bunks are too low. If the keel isn't hitting the crossmembers, and not digging into the keel rollers, why is the boat too low? My suggestion would have been just to cut the bottom of the bracket off even with the bottom of the crossmember.

 

[jayhanig]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

nuts? on the roller and bunk brackets? just loosen n tighten em... unless stuff starts breaking

I thought breakage was the law. I noted rust on the old nuts; I assume once I start to apply some torque to them I'm going to wish I had some new ones available. Stuff always happens to me.

Imagine me taking the boat to the local ramp, launching and then tying it off to sit and wait while I work on the trailer. Then, sure as Carter makes little pills, things start breaking on me. I assume I'll end up using a torch to encourage them to let go. What I don't want to do is leave my boat while I go in search of hardware.

So the question stands: what kind of nuts? Standard galvanized or nylon locking? Or should I be considering stainless? This is a salt water environment.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

you COULD simply jack the boat up n do it that way

if things are gonna break you will need new u bolts (I assume that's what holds it all together) galvanized with lock washers should be fine

AFAIK hardware coming loose is the one problem you salties don't have to worry much about

 

[jestor68]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Why don't you take your saws all and cut it off? The extra material down there serves no purpose except for vertical adjustment.

Use the KISS principle.

 

[alldodge]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

If you have a local trailer parts store in your area they will have all the pparts you need. The size of the u-bolts and nuts differ slightly from about 3/8 to 1/2 thread. As smokeonthe water mentioned, galvanized lock washers and nuts are good, stainless is an overkill. PB blast the nuts real good to start and let them soak, hope for the best and bring a breaker bar for a little help.

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Why don't you take your saws all and cut it off? The extra material down there serves no purpose except for vertical adjustment.

Use the KISS principle.

Agreed, although I'd substitute a cut-off wheel (pneumatic or roto-zip) instead of the sawzall. More scalpel than machete, lol.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Why don't you take your saws all and cut it off? The extra material down there serves no purpose except for vertical adjustment.

Use the KISS principle.

not true.... the material at the end of the slots is crucial to the strength of the bracket..... if it were cut the bracket would become flimsy

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

not true.... the material at the end of the slots is crucial to the strength of the bracket..... if it were cut the bracket would become flimsy

Well, if those brackets are the same as the ones I just bought, you won't be affecting them too much by removing the lower material. Mine are made of some thick steel, and since they aren't particularly load-bearing, it probably won't affect the bracket in any appreciable amount.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

if it wasn't load bearing it wouldn't be needed... Depending on ramp angle and boat design they can actually take a lot of weight when the boat is loading ... you could easily have half the weight of the boat on a single roller before she settles in on the rest of the trailer

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

hmm another option MIGHT be bigger tires... are you due anyhow?

Next, what shape are your springs in? are they flat and on their last leg? new ones might be an option.....

Maybe just a ball mount with just a little bit less drop?

Also MAYBE just a change in technique.... back over the hump at an angle and maybe you won't drag.

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Sorry, but I don't consider it to be a primary load-bearing part when it bears only the load that isn't supported by natural buoyancy and the bunks. Granted, it varies from boat to boat, ramp to ramp, but you aren't putting 1Klbs of force on a single roller. Also, it's the roller furthest from the stern, so it primarily serves as a keel-guide. All I'm saying is that cutting the bottom of the bracket won't likely affect the functional strength of the bracket for an 18' runabout. If it does flex too much after cutting it, simply weld a strip back on across the bolt-channels even with where it was cut-off. A lot quicker than having to adjust the bunks and brackets, and it doesn't affect the launch/load depth he already has on the trailer.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

back a boat a couple feet off of the winch post and lift the stern a foot off of the trailer and then tell me how much of the boat is supported by the bunks vs how much is on the front keel roller.

Add to that the time you come in just a little too hot in heavy waves or wind and hit the roller and yes it certainly could be 1000's of lbs of force


If he could weld then yes certainly cutting and welding a strip on would be an excellent option but He's have to farm that out if he doesn't have a welder plus it would be a location of accelerated corrosion unless he had the brackets re galvanized....

Could definitely work but wouldn't be as simple as just cutting unless he is satisfied with a mickey mouse solution...... From reading Jay's previous posts, I'm pretty sure he won't settle for anything less than absolutely right.

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

back a boat a couple feet off of the winch post and lift the stern a foot off of the trailer and then tell me how much of the boat is supported by the bunks vs how much is on the front keel roller.

Add to that the time you come in just a little too hot in heavy waves or wind and hit the roller and yes it certainly could be 1000's of lbs of force


If he could weld then yes certainly cutting and welding a strip on would be an excellent option but He's have to farm that out if he doesn't have a welder plus it would be a location of accelerated corrosion unless he had the brackets re galvanized....

Could definitely work but wouldn't be as simple as just cutting unless he is satisfied with a mickey mouse solution...... From reading Jay's previous posts, I'm pretty sure he won't settle for anything less than absolutely right.

It's a lot cheaper to pay a trailer shop or weld shop an hour of labor (~$50-$60 around these parts) to cut/weld the strip than it is to get new bolsters and mess with raising everything, etc. It's not a Mickey Mouse solution, it's closer to not making a mountain out of a molehill. You want to change everything that isn't the problem. If the bracket is the problem, modify the bracket.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

again, like I said it would work fine but it would need welded and ideally re galvanized.....

just cutting it off without welding it is what I consider mickey mouse

 

[hungupthespikes]

Re: Keel Roller Bracket Drags

Lots of options here.
If you cut it off and keep the U-bolts then it needs to be welded.

A piece of square stock steel with slots for the outside of the bracket. Then holes for the U-bolts, lock nuts on inside and outside of square stock. No need to weld if you can get all to fit right. Pain to do but does work. :grumpy:

If your happy were the bracket is, then just drill 4 holes thru the bracket and cross member and bolt it together. Then you can cut the bracket and eliminate the U-bolts.

huts