Keep it or Ditch it

[Polara Pat]

Hey folks,

I'm brand new here but I understand that this is the place to be for figuring out my issues and networking with fellow boaters. I purchased a 16' Aroliner this Spring with a '69 55 Evinrude on it. The old timer who I bought the boat from had no problems with the motor for over 15 years then on his last outing he lost the fuel pump (so he thought). The boat came to me with the new pump in the box. I'm pretty sure the problem was more that all of the fuel lines were sprinklers. I replaced them all and new plugs gapped to .028; checked the points and gave them a quick touch up and checked the gap which looked good (.010 I think). So onto my issue(s). The motor is fairly hard to start (electric) but I could blame that on my technique. Once running it is severely underpowered. The first time I had it out it ran strong for about 10 minutes then dropped power by 50%, I could barely limp it back to the boat launch. I discovered a few wires that were seriously corroded so I repaired them. I then took the boat out the other day again and just limped it around at a putt while the throttle was wide open. Brought it back in and the starter would just click even on my spare battery. At this point I also noticed that the flywheel was extremely hot to the touch. I haven't started it since. The plugs are very gassy with #1 being the worst.

Are there some easy multi meter test that I can perform to try and eliminate some of the issues? Or is this motor even worth wasting more time and money on? I've yet to get a manual since I'm not sure which direction I will go from here.

Sorry about the long first post, I just needed to get the details out there.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

There is a plate on the port transom bracket with the model & serial number. What is the model number?

Spark plugs should be Champion L77JC4 or QL77JC4 plugs, gaped at .030.

Carburetors foul when sitting and usually require cleaning and rebuilding somewhat. At the least, manually clean the high speed jets that are located in a horizontal position in the bottom center of the float chamber... way in back of the 7/16" drain plug bolt.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

-------------------

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Whether to keep of scrap it.... that will have to be your judgement call.

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

Wow, that should keep me busy for a while. Thanks.

Model # 55973C

Serial # C595834

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

Model # 55973C is indeed a 1969 55hp Evinrude. Just wanted to be sure.

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

I also forgot to mention that I did a cold compression test that turned up 73#,73#,75#. I know this should be done with a hot engine for better accuracy but it wasn't running. I'll start by trying out the plugs that have been suggested over the Autolites that I've been using.

Is there a source for carb gaskets or am I making my own? I always like to know before I have the carbs in pieces on the bench.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

Carburetor gaskets and kits are available on this site, your dealership, marine type stores, Sierra, etc.

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

Carburetor gaskets and kits are available on this site, your dealership, marine type stores, Sierra, etc.

Great, thanks.

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

Sooo, I pulled the carbs apart ever so gently on the bench and gave them a descent cleaning. They were in pretty good overall shape except the viton tips (?) on the float needle were all a bit tarnished grey/black. I cleaned them with a soft rag and carb solvent and they came up a bright red again. I went with the Champion plugs as prescribed as well. My barrel test in the yard was a bit hard starting but with some mixture adjustments I got it running pretty smooth and responsive to throttle. Brought it to the lake and it would barely start without me manually blipping the throttle. I attempted to re-adjust the low speed needles in vain. Load the boat and chalk it up as the fourth day ruined on the water. I still feel like I'm missing some key element. I haven't checked yet but I bet my plugs are very wet. I was also using a fresh load of mixed gas.

Anyone recognize these symptoms?

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

There is a plate on the port transom bracket with the model & serial number. What is the model number?

Spark plugs should be Champion L77JC4 or QL77JC4 plugs, gaped at .030.

Carburetors foul when sitting and usually require cleaning and rebuilding somewhat. At the least, manually clean the high speed jets that are located in a horizontal position in the bottom center of the float chamber... way in back of the 7/16" drain plug bolt.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

-------------------

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Whether to keep of scrap it.... that will have to be your judgement call.

Alright, after torching the fuel soaked plugs I made an attempt to follow these instructions a little closer. I set all of the s/s needles to 1 1/2 turns out from a gentle seat. I could start the motor but only in the full throttle start position. I started with the center carb and began to slowly turn the needle in as instructed and the rpm climbed dramatically and only began to stumble when fully seated or maybe an 1/8 turn from closed.

Normal?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

I started with the center carb and began to slowly turn the needle in as instructed and the rpm climbed dramatically and only began to stumble when fully seated or maybe an 1/8 turn from closed.Normal?

No, that's not normal. Sounds like you did not lower the rpms as per my instructions as the rpms increased? The following copy/paste from my above reply.

"Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running."

That's a touchy engine to adjust even when new from day one, hence my reply with precise instructions.

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

No, that's not normal. Sounds like you did not lower the rpms as per my instructions as the rpms increased? The following copy/paste from my above reply.

"Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running."

That's a touchy engine to adjust even when new from day one, hence my reply with precise instructions.

Alright, thanks Joe. I appreciate your patience.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

As soon as you get this motor running right, SELL IT!! The electronics on these are an outboard mechanic's worst nightmare. Then I would get an 70 a couple years newer. The electronics are much improved and are less likely to drive you and the mechanics nuts. The 55's are good motors, mechanically, but electronically, they are a nightmare. When this motor was built, a lot of revolutionary changes were being born, in the outboard world. A newer sleeker look and sophisticated electronics. The old conventional type of ignition sytems started fading out in larger outboards, during this time and the newer types became more costly to replace. If you do have to replace anything electronically, shop very carefully, or one single piece can easily surpass the value of the whole outboard.

 

[82rude]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

what you have is a good motor with elect nightmare .zeph is right .that being said it is also a loop charged 55 hp that punches way over its weight class.evinrude claimed that they droped the 65 because the 55 looper could fill its hp class also.see the " old omc site" on line for lots of cool info about omc engines from days gone by.i had the Johnson version of that motor and it was one of the best motors I ever ran.my brother had yours and it was horrible electronically wise.hope you got the good one made on wed instead of 5 to 5 on Friday,lol.

 

[Vintin]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

what you have is a good motor with elect nightmare .zeph is right .that being said it is also a loop charged 55 hp that punches way over its weight class.evinrude claimed that they droped the 65 because the 55 looper could fill its hp class also. see the " old omc site" on line for lots of cool info about omc engines from days gone by.i had the Johnson version of that motor and it was one of the best motors I ever ran.my brother had yours and it was horrible electronically wise.hope you got the good one made on wed instead of 5 to 5 on Friday,lol.

Where is the "old omc site" to be found? I checked the 'Top secret files' but didn't see it. Thanks,

 

[Polara Pat]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

what you have is a good motor with elect nightmare .zeph is right .that being said it is also a loop charged 55 hp that punches way over its weight class.evinrude claimed that they droped the 65 because the 55 looper could fill its hp class also.see the " old omc site" on line for lots of cool info about omc engines from days gone by.i had the Johnson version of that motor and it was one of the best motors I ever ran.my brother had yours and it was horrible electronically wise.hope you got the good one made on wed instead of 5 to 5 on Friday,lol.

Hah, that's funny you would mention which shift it was built on at the plant. We make that reference all the time with our old cars and it's usually true.
I was actually feeling like it was a fueling issue more than electrical but I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to outboards so please feel free to boss me around. This particular motor was built as a hybrid of the best parts some hot shot outboard guy built back in the day so it's all Johnson/Evinrude intermingled. If there were some simple tests I could perform to determine if it was my electrical system or fuel system or both giving me problems then I would have somewhere to start but I'm a bit stumped right now.

 

[dazk14]

Re: Keep it or Ditch it

I also forgot to mention that I did a cold compression test that turned up 73#,73#,75#. I know this should be done with a hot engine for better accuracy but it wasn't running. I'll start by trying out the plugs that have been suggested over the Autolites that I've been using.

Is there a source for carb gaskets or am I making my own? I always like to know before I have the carbs in pieces on the bench.

Do you have a known "good" compression tester. Those motors new would put out 160+psi. Given that the #'s are so close, it may simply be gauge/testing technique.
Does the motor turn over fairly quickly? This is important for testing and for starting.
Check it with an inductive tach if you have one.
For compression, remove all plugs and test one at a time. You must ground the spark plug leads. Good time to check spark in each cylinder.
Did the motor overheat? did you feel the head temp? What do the new plugs look like?
That motor may appear to be running ok at idle, when in fact it may be only running on 2 cylinders. A cylinder drop test would determine which are firing.