L-Drive 120hp no spark at any cylinders

[BaylinerBluez]

I have a Force L-drive 120 hp I recently purchased and was able to get out on water for about 3 hours until it started giving issues. Originally the issue was when giving it throttle the engine would bog down then die, but now I'm not getting any spark at any of the cylinders. I tested the stator and it was bad so I replaced that, thinking it was the only issue but that is not the case. I have checked the trigger, regulator/rectifier, and stator and all check out ok except when cranking over the stator is only putting out about 85 volts. Thanks in advance for any ideas or solutions.

 

[pnwboat]

Have you checked the ignition Kill Switch? If you can supply a picture of your ignition system or at least what year. There are several ignition systems that were used on those motors. Need to determine which one you have before I can offer any specific advice.

 

[BaylinerBluez]

It's a Model # 120LD92B. SN 1101. I haven't checked the ignition kill switch, is that the thing with the lanyard attached to it under the steering wheel?
Originally when this started,when the boat would die it would fire back up but now like I said I'm not getting any spark at any of the cylinders.

 

[pnwboat]

Yes the Kill Switch is the thing with the lanyard attached. To by-pass it, simply disconnect one of the wires on the Kill Switch. This will disable it. See if spark returns.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Stator output with a DVA / Peak Reading Voltmeter
​Should be 180v

The aftermarket stators might read differently than OEM.
OEM3500 ohm CDI 500-700ohm

 

[BaylinerBluez]

I checked to see if it was the kill switch and that wasn't it. it is an aftermarket CDI stator and was showing 620 ohms.

 

[pnwboat]

Still not 100% clear on which ignition system you have. Normally that year would have what they call a Switch Box ignition system. That type of ignition system normally has a stator with two ignition system windings. Low speed winding Blue to Blue/White 500-700 OHMs and a high speed winding Red to Red/White 28-32 OHMs. Is this the type of ignition system that you have?

 

[jerryjerry05]

The stator can OHM out good and still be bad.
​That's when you need to do the voltage test with a DVA.
92n used the Mercury ignition.
I think early 91 was when they stopped the Prestolite.'

Maybe post some pics ??

 

[BaylinerBluez]

It is a switchboard ignition and it ohmed out fine on both low and high speed windings.
One thing I forgot to mention is when I took flywheel off some magnets came off. I reattached them assuming it goes in a north-south pattern around the flywheel. Could that possibly be the issue or is it typically north-south all the way around?

 

[pnwboat]

I don't know if the orientation of the magnets will have an affect. I'm not an expert in that area. I do know this....never assume anything.

You might be able to test the magnet orientation of the magnets with another one. See if the test magnet reacts the same way with the flywheel magnets that you did not touch and then see how it reacts with the ones you glued back in. There are several ways that the magnets can be polarized. Either from end to end or from side to side. I don't know which way the flywheel magnets are polarized.

If the magnet test is inconclusive, then you may just have a bad Switch Box. When you checked the stator voltage while cranking, was the stator connected to the Switch Box? If so, try testing the voltage with the stator disconnected from the Switch Box.

 

[jerryjerry05]

It can run without some of the magnets.
​Makes no difference on orientation of the magnets.
Re-gluing usually doesn't work.
I'd start looking for a new flywheel.
The re-glued magnets WILL come off again.
This time maybe doing a lot of damage???
Last year I replaced my neighbors flywheel, stator and trigger when the magnets let loose.
I told him I'd re-glue but didn't want to because they wouldn't stay.
They didn't.

Like I said before, the stator can ohm good!!
But still be BAD!!
Do the DVA voltage test.