Re: Leaf springs broke
First thing that got me started was visiting the champion trailers website, I think its (
www.championtrailers.com) but if not do a google or yahoo for champion trailers. Browsing through their online catalog and looking at the pictures and comparing to my trailer, I could tell what type of springs I have (there's different types based on how they mount, number of leafs, weight capacity). You also have to measure the springs length to get the right size. To re-hash, they come in different mounting type, length, and weight capacity (the Champion trailers website tells you how to measure the springs and what the mounting types are called; mine are "slipper springs"). Get springs with enough weight capacity to safely handle your boat fully loaded out and include weight of trailer also (A 1500 pound rig would need a 1000 pound rated spring on each side for a total of 2000 pound capacity; theoretically you could use a 750 pound on each side but that's too close to capacity for me). Don't go way too over-sized on the springs or the ride will be too stiff. Better to be a little on the over-stiff side than under, though, as under-sized springs will bottom out on bumps and may break due to being overloaded. I also purchased new wheel bearings, bearing races, and the inner seals while I was at it. Since you're going to have it all apart, the extra 30 bucks or so for new bearings is IMO the way to go. You'll also need some marine grade trailer wheel bearing grease (don't recommend automotive as it is not as resistant to the water from constantly being submerged) and replacement "U" bolts/nuts/washers. Replace all bolts/nuts and washers. Take a good look under your trailer and you'll see all the parts. I purchased the parts at a local trailer supply store because I wanted to take the boat out the coming weekend and also I removed all the parts from one side of the trailer (left the trailer on jack stands) and took the old parts with me to the store to compare. You're going to need to jack up the trailer by the frame,not the axle, as this will remove all tension from the springs so you can safely remove them. But first, you need to loosen the lug nuts on the wheel, jack up the trailer by the AXLE until wheel just comes off the ground, remove the wheel, then jack up the trailer by FRAME until the axle just starts lifting off of the jack under it. One thing I started to do was jack up on the frame just behind the wheel but noticed that I might risk bending the frame (I did this with the boat on the trailer), so I used a combination of my floor jack, a car jack, and two jack stands to ease up the trailer from both in front of the wheel and behind it to distribute the stress and minimize any bending moment. Depending on the height of your trailer, you may need some good blocks to put under the jack to get enough height. Once you've done this, your trailer is now supported by the jack stands on the frame and all tension is off of the spring. Other than that, its just a matter of turning wrenches. Be careful and use chocks/jack stands. This was kind of long and I'm sure I missed something, hopefully others will chime in and ask if you have more questions.
