Leak somewhere

[Bayou Dave]

I am getting about a gallon an hour leaking into my boat. I filled the bilge with water and didn?t see any water coming out anywhere. I checked the live well inlet and outlet and zero water leaking there. The only place I can think it may be leaking is around the lower motor mount bolts. I can?t fill the bilge high enough to get those bolts submerged. I can take it to the ramp and see if any water is entering around those bolts. If it is one or both of those bolts that are leaking can I just loosen the bolts, one at a time, add some 4200 and retighten them?

 

[Watermann]

If it's your lower motor mount bolts allowing in a gallon an hour you may want to remove them and check for the transom being saturated. I personally only use 5200 on anything transom related and you can remove both bolts at the same time, just don't go trailering with only the top bolts in.

Have you checked the livewell intake and outlets too?

 

[Bayou Dave]

If it's your lower motor mount bolts allowing in a gallon an hour you may want to remove them and check for the transom being saturated. I personally only use 5200 on anything transom related and you can remove both bolts at the same time, just don't go trailering with only the top bolts in.

Have you checked the livewell intake and outlets too?

I did check the livewell intake and outlet. No leaking there. Is it possible that a composite transom would become saturated?

 

[Watermann]

I meant to say have you checked all the through the hull fittings and the well. I had a through the hull fitting break once but it was still attached and looked fine.

On the transom I don't know what your Larson has for it's material, I just thought the sealer would have a better chance to seal if the transom it's trying to adhere to isn't sopping wet. If there's no leaks out when you test then it could very well be the lower motor mount bolts.

Have you looked up under the splashwell yet to see if there's signs of water coming in around those bolts?

 

[Bayou Dave]

I meant to say have you checked all the through the hull fittings and the well. I had a through the hull fitting break once but it was still attached and looked fine.

On the transom I don't know what your Larson has for it's material, I just thought the sealer would have a better chance to seal if the transom it's trying to adhere to isn't sopping wet. If there's no leaks out when you test then it could very well be the lower motor mount bolts.

Have you looked up under the splashwell yet to see if there's signs of water coming in around those bolts?

The only through fittings are the motor mount bolts, drain plug, livewell inlet and outlet and transom tie downs. The tie downs are too high for any leaks, the drain plug is not leaking and the livewell inlet and outlet are fine, as far as I can tell. From what I have read the transom on the VEC system is composite. I did look under the splash well at the 2 lower bolts and they seem fine, but they weren't submerged at the time. I will just have to go to the ramp in a few days and see what I can find. If it is the lower mounting bolts I will loosen them and reseal them. You suggest using 5200 instead of 4200. With 5200 being pretty much permanant wouldn't the 4200 be a better choice?

 

[Watermann]

You can use either but 5200 isn't permanent like some think, especially in a 1/2" bolt hole with the torque applied by a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the bolt. I use 5200 for everything through the hull, the only time I've used 4200 was to seal the cabin down on my Chief. I've had to remove lots of bolts and rivets that were sealed with 5200 and it's not a big deal. The cost is almost double for 4200 for some reason and it's fast cure too so the whole tube will be solid before you know it after one use. Regular cure 5200 sealed up with a screw in the end and tape then stored in a fridge will last years.

I would pull both bolts out if found to be leaking and dry out the holes before sealing. I think the lower bolts go in from the inside too don't they?

 

[Bayou Dave]

You can use either but 5200 isn't permanent like some think, especially in a 1/2" bolt hole with the torque applied by a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the bolt. I use 5200 for everything through the hull, the only time I've used 4200 was to seal the cabin down on my Chief. I've had to remove lots of bolts and rivets that were sealed with 5200 and it's not a big deal. The cost is almost double for 4200 for some reason and it's fast cure too so the whole tube will be solid before you know it after one use. Regular cure 5200 sealed up with a screw in the end and tape then stored in a fridge will last years.

I would pull both bolts out if found to be leaking and dry out the holes before sealing. I think the lower bolts go in from the inside too don't they?

Yes, the bolts go from the inside. Good trick about putting 5200 in the fridge. Might need to see what the admiral thinks of having 5200 with the food.:facepalm:

 

[Patfromny]

How about tilting the boat up as high as it will go and filling it with water up to the lower bolts? I think it is alot easier to find a leak on dry ground. Maybe find a road with a hill and park on it or maybe your local ramp is steep enough to do the test?

 

[kcassells]

Don't forget to chock the wheels x 10.....whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa doggy.
This may be another dry dock way to find the water problem;

 

[Bayou Dave]

How about tilting the boat up as high as it will go and filling it with water up to the lower bolts? I think it is alot easier to find a leak on dry ground. Maybe find a road with a hill and park on it or maybe your local ramp is steep enough to do the test?

I tried filling the bilge with the bow way up but ended with water approaching my battery switch. Submerging the battery switch just didn't really seem like a good idea!

 

[Bayou Dave]

Don't forget to chock the wheels x 10.....whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa doggy.
This may be another dry dock way to find the water problem;

Hmmmmm...... I thnk I will pass on that method! :facepalm:

 

[kcassells]

1 test at a time. You'll find the critter messing up your day DR!

 

[Patfromny]

I guess you'll have to put her in the water then. Maybe put some chalk line dust around the bolts before submerging. It will run off wherever the leak is and will be easier to see than just water seeping in. just an idea.

 

[Bayou Dave]

I guess you'll have to put her in the water then. Maybe put some chalk line dust around the bolts before submerging. It will run off wherever the leak is and will be easier to see than just water seeping in. just an idea.

That is a pretty good idea.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Looks like I may have found where it is leaking. Before going to the ramp I made sure the bilge was dry and put some chalk dust where I could. (Thanks Patfromny)
It looks like the leak is around the drain plug. You can see in the photos where the chalk dust is wet and where it is still dry. I only put the boat in the water and tied up to the dock.

 

[kcassells]

Awesome...Patfromny nailed it! On with a check in regards to the transom. It's got to be a relief to find the ghost leak.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Awesome...Patfromny nailed it! On with a check in regards to the transom. It's got to be a relief to find the ghost leak.

I should not have to check the transom. According to Larson the transom is made of composite material made by Polycast Specialties. I will take off the screws to the garboard drain and see what I find.

 

[kcassells]

Well that being said you are a lucky guy! Glad to see that was solved.

 

[Patfromny]

Glad I could help. Happy you found the leak. I hope it's an easy fix