Thanks for that tip Noel, I'll give'r another twelve hours. Thought that a slow charge was better for a drained battery.<br /><br />Bob, so true on the heat. I went down and got one. You only apply the load for 5 seconds to get the reading on the batt. My son and I did it in the car (batt in box on back floor), on the way back from HF. You could smell the 'cooking'. <br /><br />I believe the HF unit (claims tests up to 1000 cca batts) uses an extrapolated result to pass judgement on the condition of the batt. It did show that the batt was weak. <br /><br />We will clean it up and put it back in for a couple of days and see what develops. Young son does carry a good set of jumpers.
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<br /><br />BTW, nice old Crown Vic. Where did you get it?You might want to rethink this one. Car batts/starting batts are designed to spit out, and thus suck up, big amps in a short amount if time. The faster you can recharge your batt, the happier you batt is, the longer its useful life.Originally posted by hystat:<br />
Wrong. Car batteries are designed to to put "spit out" and "suck up" large amounts of amps for very short periods of time. Any type of battery, whether it's starting or deep cycle, lead acid, nimh, nicd, or lithium ion, will benefit from the slowest possible charge. Every time you use your battery sulfation develops on the plates. The slower the charge is, the more sulfation is dissolved during recharge. The build up of sulfation is what eventually kills almost every battery.
Problem with that test is it's hard on wrenchesOriginally posted by Mark42:<br /> I have found that laying a lug wrench across the terminals will indicate load rating. If the top of the battery blows off in less than 10 seconds, it was up to snuff.
<br /><br />Oh, and BTW, nice Vic!!
