Itsalonestar
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 37
Brought home an Aluminum Lone Star Medallion yesterday. It came with a middle 1970's 70 horsepower Johnson and a similarly aged 65 horse engine
in sections which the previous owner had for parts. Any of the resident Johnson/Evinrude dudes here know if these motors interchange parts (65 horse and 70 horse)? I also have a 76 Johnson in storage that is rebuilt which I will probably use if only for sentimentality's sake. Spirit of 76 and all....
I think most if not all the parts from the 70 that came on the boat will interchange with that one...just not sure about the 65 horse parts...all 3 are within a couple years of each other.
I have the deck torn out and down to the bones and pressure washed. I read in other posts that the majority recommend GluvIt for seams and rivets from the interior side. The bottom section of the hull interior is unpainted, but the sides are painted down to where it rivets together. I suppose that will have to go down to bare aluminum along the seam for the GluvIt to adhere properly.....I will hit it with 4000 psi pressure washer with the cutter nozzle and see what happens...think that might remove some of whatever sealing material they used in the seam where it was riveted together. Do you generally just hit the seams/rivets with the Gluvit, or is it recommended to do the entire hull section since it is unprimed and unpainted?
The exterior paint is either badly oxidized and turning to powder or someone used some latex house paint on the thing. Appearance-wise the hull is darn near perfect, so I'm wanting to do this so it will last a couple decades.
(After that, one of you youngsters can have it.) HAHA
The windshield is glass. And it has a middle section that slides down flat and an access hatch like a sailboat. This is a cool old boat!
Pressure washing has taken the exterior paint down to bare aluminum or nearly so in some places....starting to see gray. Is this something to spot prime, or would you blast off all the paint possible and prime it all with something?
Previous owner had stuffed some 3/4 inch sheets of builder type sheet foam
between the floor braces, but I am not crazy about that. I was wondering if anyone had ever used pvc pipe cut to length and capped for flotation under the deck?
He had also gone to a lot of trouble to fit plywood on the deck/floor, but it was starting to deteriorate after a couple years and I don't want to put it back. I have a sawmill and some cedar logs, and was thinking maybe some cedar slats that would lift out for cleaning might be a good way to go instead of plywood. Never had much luck with anything plywood that's exposed to the elements. If anyone has used cedar with spar varnish on a boat I'd be interested to hear how it went. I was also considering some of the composition planks they are using for decks now...some kind of plastic stuff.
Transom wood looks iffy, so I guess that will be on the to-do list. Previous owner had built up an epoxied plank of plywood for it, but I don't really see how a whole piece can be forced in there. I'm thinking I will do two pieces that overlap and glue the laps after they are in place. He had also put in a 25 gallon aluminum fuel tank complete with screw on fuel filter canister. Won't use that either due to the room it takes up. An item for Craigslist.
in sections which the previous owner had for parts. Any of the resident Johnson/Evinrude dudes here know if these motors interchange parts (65 horse and 70 horse)? I also have a 76 Johnson in storage that is rebuilt which I will probably use if only for sentimentality's sake. Spirit of 76 and all....
I think most if not all the parts from the 70 that came on the boat will interchange with that one...just not sure about the 65 horse parts...all 3 are within a couple years of each other. I have the deck torn out and down to the bones and pressure washed. I read in other posts that the majority recommend GluvIt for seams and rivets from the interior side. The bottom section of the hull interior is unpainted, but the sides are painted down to where it rivets together. I suppose that will have to go down to bare aluminum along the seam for the GluvIt to adhere properly.....I will hit it with 4000 psi pressure washer with the cutter nozzle and see what happens...think that might remove some of whatever sealing material they used in the seam where it was riveted together. Do you generally just hit the seams/rivets with the Gluvit, or is it recommended to do the entire hull section since it is unprimed and unpainted?
The exterior paint is either badly oxidized and turning to powder or someone used some latex house paint on the thing. Appearance-wise the hull is darn near perfect, so I'm wanting to do this so it will last a couple decades.
(After that, one of you youngsters can have it.) HAHA
The windshield is glass. And it has a middle section that slides down flat and an access hatch like a sailboat. This is a cool old boat!
Pressure washing has taken the exterior paint down to bare aluminum or nearly so in some places....starting to see gray. Is this something to spot prime, or would you blast off all the paint possible and prime it all with something?
Previous owner had stuffed some 3/4 inch sheets of builder type sheet foam
between the floor braces, but I am not crazy about that. I was wondering if anyone had ever used pvc pipe cut to length and capped for flotation under the deck?
He had also gone to a lot of trouble to fit plywood on the deck/floor, but it was starting to deteriorate after a couple years and I don't want to put it back. I have a sawmill and some cedar logs, and was thinking maybe some cedar slats that would lift out for cleaning might be a good way to go instead of plywood. Never had much luck with anything plywood that's exposed to the elements. If anyone has used cedar with spar varnish on a boat I'd be interested to hear how it went. I was also considering some of the composition planks they are using for decks now...some kind of plastic stuff.
Transom wood looks iffy, so I guess that will be on the to-do list. Previous owner had built up an epoxied plank of plywood for it, but I don't really see how a whole piece can be forced in there. I'm thinking I will do two pieces that overlap and glue the laps after they are in place. He had also put in a 25 gallon aluminum fuel tank complete with screw on fuel filter canister. Won't use that either due to the room it takes up. An item for Craigslist.
