looks like head gasket time,89 force 125

[pnwboat]

The only bearing that is pressed onto the crank is the upper main bearing. Item 21 in the diagram below. I usually put a dab of red Locktite to make sure it stays put. Also the crank seals item 11 are easy to break when installing the crank into the block. They look like piston rings and seal each section of the crankcase from each other. This is a 2-stroke motor and each section of the crankcase is momentarily pressurized to force the fuel mixture into the cylinder. I always have a few spare ones on hand just in case. Don't ask me how I know that! LOL! The other crank bearings are split in half and have a split wire ring that hold them around the crank journal.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/1310_100.cfm

Inspect the bearings and bearing journals on the crank and rods. Look closely for signs of discoloration caused by overheating and lack of lubrication, usually blue color, and or pitting.

 

[sportrider]

I'll order up all the new seals and at least the upper bearing seeing how I'm going to be that deep into it already. now I just gotta get the powerhead off and opened up to assess everything and see if anything else needs to be replaced while I'm in there. and looks like I'm going to add some oil to the tank, I was running at 50:1. the only break in I did was running it for 1 1/2 hours in the driveway, heating it up then letting it completely cool off varying the RPM's between idle and 2000 RPM. I guess that could've killed it too. I figured everything was already broken in aside from the new piston and rings on # 4 and I thought an hour and a half would've been enough to seat the rings... guess I was wrong about that.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Did you orient the rod cap correctly? They are split rod technology and the cap only fits on one way on its specific rod. Did you torque the rod cap bolts to 190 inch pounds? Insufficient torque and they will come loose while running. Did you seat the rod caps to the rod big end so the ground flats match perfectly? A pencil point or sharp tool should slip over the break on the ground flats without catching. If the rod cap is not perfectly aligned, the rollers will bang against the crack and destroy the rollers and rod.

 

[sportrider]

I must not of had the cap seated correctly, I know I had it matched up to the rod in the right way, and I know it was torqued to spec. I didn't check it with a pencil... costly mistake! I have the powerhead ready to remove, I would've had it on the ground last night but I forgot my flywheel puller. I wanted to remove the flywheel and the electrical under it before lifting the block off the leg. everything is loose though and the powerhead is free, now it's just a matter of removing a few more things and splitting the case.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Well, now that you are taking the block apart, alignment will be easier. Set the rollers and cages in place and set the rod cap on its rod. Run the bolts in all the way but not tight--not even snug. NOW check the cap alignment using a sharp tool or pencil point and be certain the tool slides over the crack on each ground flat smoothly. If it does not, gently tap the rod cap until it is perfect then tighten the bolts to spec.

 

[sportrider]

ok... I got everything stripped. it was a total PITA to get the flywheel off. when I removed the crank one of the little sealing rings broke, but I was planning on replacing all three anyways. seems the only things damaged was # 4, I was able to pull the top bearing so I should be able to keep the cost around the $400.00 mark for the rebuild.

 

[sportrider]

UPDATE: I got all my parts and gaskets for the rebuild, gonna get after it tomorrow. with any luck I should have it ready for the water again by tomorrow night.

 

[sportrider]

ok... IT'S ALIVE!!!!! had it out at the lake yesterday doing the break in on it, everything went together correctly and was triple checked. my hat is off to you guys that can get those bearings lined up correctly with the engine still in the boat. the engine sounds different now (I guess it should now running on 4 cylinders) and feels really smooth. I have a few more hours to baby it before I can really get open it up to see how it will perform now.

 

[Jiggz]

Congrats. You sure are one heck of a fast mechanic! Make sure you follow the break in religiously as it can make the difference of either enjoying your hard work or doing some more.

 

[Nordin]

Great and congrats BUT as jiggz says DO the break in gently and take the time. You will have the payback then.

 

[sportrider]

I plan on it!!! it has 2 hours on it now and has yet to see 3000 rpm.

 

[sportrider]

we ran the boat all day yesterday, the only issue I had was it fouled the plugs. I pulled them and cleaned them up, and it ran pretty dang good for most of the day, they started to foul out again at the end of the day. I'm pretty sure it's being caused by the rich mixture. I did open it up for a while after the break in period. I gained 4 mph on top with the boat loaded down and 3/4 fuel tank. but that wasn't trimmed out so it may have a little left. the lake is at 5200ft elevation the 125 is on a 1989 Maxum 2000XR how does 31mph loaded sound? should it have more? I'm running a aluminum 15p prop and pulled 5100-5200 rpm.

 

[sportrider]

BTW the speed was on GPS

 

[Jiggz]

It sounds about right loaded and improperly trimmed. However, if you can borrow and try a 17P aluminum prop or a 15P SS you might get a little improvement.

 

[sportrider]

I have a 17" aluminum prop, it is worse with it, holeshot suffers and the added pitch I lose to many RPM to cover the steeper pitch so it loses top end too.

 

[Jiggz]

In that case, the motor is probably max'ed out already based on the size, load of the boat it is in and high elevation environment it is operating at. High elevation operation does reduce engine power output. As a general rule, you lose approx 3% power for every thousand of feet above sea level. In your case, this is approx 15% of power loss.

 

[sportrider]

ok sounds good, I guess I'll live with it. it can pull me water skiing behind it but I know how to ski. I've been trying to teach my wife and kids to ski but it's hard when I can't just snap them out of the water and them not yet understanding how to fight yourself up behind a underpowered boat. anyone ever supercharge a force

 

[Frank Acampora]

Find out the correct size high speed jets for your altitude. If it has the original sea level jets, the engine is running too rich and losing a little power. Remember: at 5200 feet altitude, the air is less dense and there is less oxygen to burn. The effect is like having a smaller engine.

If you live at that altitude, your body compensates for the reduced oxygen and you do not notice it. If you do not live there, the first couple of days you may feel slightly short on breath until your body does react. In fact, when the Olympics are held at a high altitude venue, there is always talk about how new records are not expected to be set. SO: If an Olympic athlete can not fully cope how can you expect your poor engine to do so? It can not compensate.
If you have COPD, you damn well better move to a lower altitude.

I would say that at 31 you are doing OK but you may be able to squeak out a couple of MPH more.

 

[sportrider]

lol I had to look up COPD. I thought is meant "crazy over power desire" I was gonna say ya I have that... but seeing the real meaning nope I'm good.