Loss of power to instrument panel

ClearLaker

Recruit
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
3
I removed my instrument panel/steering console to install a new floor. I thought I labelled everything but after hooking it all back up I don't have power to most of the instrument panel.
It looks like battery cables goes straight to the 60hp Merc, a cluster of of wires come out of motor to the console. I cannot find a separate power cable from the battery to the rocker switches or power terminal. Does that make sense?

Motor starts, trims/tilts, and Tach works but nothing else. No radio, no lights, no horn etc. Where do I start testing voltage?

Previous owner does have an old set of cables coming from battery terminals to console but it was not hooked up to anything underneath the instruments, i know that much for sure. It looks like it got hot at one time.
 

mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
CL, there is probably a fuse under the dash in the harness or a bad connection. But in order to help more, need details as to your setup. What year and type Merc is it and do you have a remote console?
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
The instruments receive power and ground from the "I" terminal on the ignition switch. That switch gets its power via the large battery cables to the engine, then up the engine harness to the control box and then to the ignition switch. Switches and accessories are typically powered via the fuse panel which has a separate pair of about 10 gauge wires running back to the battery. A fuse or circuit breaker (20 amps) is typically installed within a foot of the battery. So the boat had originally been powered correctly but the prior owner(s) apparently decided the factory didn't know what they were doing.
 

ClearLaker

Recruit
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
3
I have a 2004 merc 60 hp 4 stroke. When I look under the sterring/instrument console I do not see an obvious circuit breaker or fuse panel separate from the ignition switch. The rocker panel has re-settable buttons.

I will have to stick my head in there in study the wires and see if I can figure out what is going to what. Most of them should still have the correct colored wires.

Thanks for your help.
 

Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,294
Just fixed one today, with similar issue. Found a loose connection at one of the gauges, The ground daisy chained from there and everything stopped working.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
If there are breakers along side each switch you don't need a fuse panel -- but that doesn't mean the main feed to those breakers should come from the ignition switch. The ignition switch is not designed to carry the full load those switches and breakers could possibly demand. That's why a separate positive and negative feed are provided directly from the battery. Since you see the wires under the console, run new ones of the proper size, add a 20 amp breaker at the battery and the system will be back to the way the boat was built. And just a reminder that only the gauges are powered from the ignition switch. Even the instrument lights should be fed by the "boat circuit" -- not the "engine harness".
 

ClearLaker

Recruit
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
3
Thanks for all the input. I did figure it out with a good volt meter. I had some loose wires from messing around with the console being disconnected.
I added a fuse to the main power and "think" I have it the way it is suppose to be.
I have since added some LED lighting and all is good.

Thank you.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Added a fuse to the main power -- "exactly where did you add it".
 
Top