Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

[ezez]

I'm at the point where I believe a need to replace the lower shift cable on my Pre-Alpha Mercruiser 260. I have the common "dies when put it in gear" symptom and it appears the lower shift cable is almost always the culprit. While I am up in there screwin around I may as well replace all the bellows. I am not scared of turning a wrench but I have no experience with this specific work so, any wise words before I tear into it? Also, bellows and shift cable should set me back about $250-$300 does that sound right? How many hours am I going to be dinking around with this repair? (my guess is a weekend) I had expected to get this thing in the water for the summer and do the bellows this fall but it appears I'll get them done now.

I have read this instruction on SternDrives and it would seem that it would apply for my Pre-Alpha/R Replacing Your Shift Cable

Previous post on the ongoing sage of the "project boat". BTW I did rebuild the engine sea water pump and the engine is now cooling properly. So, at this point the project boat has had the carb rebuilt, power tilt rebuilt, both sea water pumps rebuilt and now...lower shift cable and bellows.

Thanks for any and all help

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

bttt

 

[SDSeville]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

I just finished changing all the bellows and the water intake tube on my boat, which involved removing and replacing shift cable. It took about 4 to 5 hours and I am a true novice. I watched a few youtube videos and read the manual. One thing I learned from a youtube video that really saved me some grief was to just cut the old bellows and water tube while while disassembling. Those clamps are really hard to get to. Make sure you have a good flexible socket extension.

$250 to $300 sounds about right for merc stuff. Less if you use Sierra.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

I pulled the outdrive today. I didn't realize I need a hinge pin tool or 1/2" hex socket to remove the bellhousing. I ordered the actual tool as I don't own either. It was only $10 on Ebay and I should have that in the next couple days. The link I posted above (sterndrives) doesn't indicate that the hinge pins need to be removed but I think they do because I'm changing the u-joint bellows.

In addition, to the shift cable and bellows I thought maybe this would be the time to buy and replace the new trim limiting switch. The cord was bad so, I jumped the leads awhile back but since, I am in there I guess I should just replace it.

Also, do I really need the special tool for the shift cable removal? If not, what do I use?

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Along, with the previous posts questions I have the following question/comments:

1. The gimball bearing feels good so, I am not going to replace it. Should I buy an engine alignment tool to check alignment or just throw the outdrive back in when it comes time?
2. The u-joints look and feel good. The manual calls for specific ujoint lube is that really necessary?

What else am I missing to get the job done?

 

[jones01m]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

ezez, do you have the nail style hinge pin or the threaded type?
If it is the nail style I have pictures to show you exactly how to remove these with a cheap home-made tool

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Threaded hinge pins AFAIK.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

bump

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Alright, I thought I had everything researched, ordered, delivered and on-site to complete this repair this weekend. Well, I ran into a hiccup this morning as I am switching from and old-style cable to a new style cable. These mount on opposite sides of the bellhousing. I have NOW read that I need to to tap out hole from the front side to the aft side with a 1/4" 18 NPSF tap. ( I would have loved to known that last week when I was ordering stuff!!! :facepalm: ) With that it looks like it was recommended by Merc and accomplished in the past by just using a standard tapered 1/4" 18 pipe tap by leaving it a bit short(4 threads).

So, I have a standard tapered 1/4" 18 tap sitting in the shop and at my disposal to use on this repair. I would love to have the boat done this weekend. The non tapered NPSF would have to be ordered and would delay thing at least a few days.

Any advice? Is using the tapered 1/4" 18 tap a recipe for disaster?

BTW here is a quote from mercstuff web-site about using a tapered tap:
"1/4-18 Pipe Tap (NPT)

Boats made from 1965 - 1983 can use the above shift cable kit by running this tap from inside of the bell housing to just 4 threads short of the end of the tap. Your threads already come thru the hole in the bell housing, you just have to but the taper from the opposite side.

Use some WD-40 and a socket to drive this tap in from the opposite side. The 9/16 brass fitting on the end of the shift cable must almost touch the bottom of the bell housing when it is tightened down."


Again, I'm not replacing the gimball bearing as all appears good. I also, see no reason for swapping out the exhaust tube. I replaced the trim switches. The old bellows have been removed and everything is cleaned up, ready for installation of new bellows and shift cable. I also, purchased an alignment tool so, I will check alignment before putting the drive back on.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

I found this thread and it appears to answer the tap question I asked above:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=289019&page=1

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Yep - looks like you found your answer. I had to order the correct tap online from a tool supply company. No one local sold it.

When it comes to actually screwing the cable in, you can unscrew the white plastic end and then use a regular deep well socket to tighten the cable. Then you can screw the white plastic end back on. OR - if you have a welder, you can weld a couple of deep well sockets together.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Alright, an update:

1. The bellhousing was "updated" by tapping for the new lower shift cable. Than it was reinstalled.
2. The bellows have been replaced.
3. The trim switches have been replaced.
4. The shift cable sheath has been fed back through the transom.

The only things left are to finish the shift cable installation: screw the brass fitting into the bellhousing, feed the core through and set-up the ends of the cable. Is there an easy way to get the brass fitting screwed into the bellhousing? I have the socket to do it I'm just concerned with the cable binding when it is rotated.

Lastly, install the drive.

Hopefully, I can get everything done this evening.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Well, she is all back together we'll see what it does tomorrow on the lake. Wish me luck.

 

[ezez]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

Bingo, bango!!! After years and years of sitting dormant the SunRunner is flying through the chop.

 

[E350]

Re: Lower Shift Cable replacement on Pre-Alpha

ezez, do you have the nail style hinge pin or the threaded type?
If it is the nail style I have pictures to show you exactly how to remove these with a cheap home-made tool

Jones01m: I have the nail style hinge pin, and everything is removed, but I am stumped on how to replace the shift cable. If you have pictures can you post them up or direct me to a link?

1967 Mercruiser K20 (i.e., Mercruiser 120) stern drive.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Its best to start you own post and just refer to this one. If you have the fwd facing old style, just wiz wheel it off and remove the brass end with a stander 9/16 deep 6 point socket