Any special tools needed to replace seals in lower unit 0n 1987 48 hp evinrude ?? will be doing water pump,so might as well do seals while lower unit off
That is my next project, water pump, but only after I figure out my running problem. I read your replaceing seals also!!! How often should they be replaced or only when leak?
First off, I'm no top dog, just a Heinz 57...I'm sure the top dogs will come along.<br /><br />If they weren't leaking, I'd leave them alone. Save your money for other failures ahead. Around here, its a $50 dollar touch for parts. Pending on how handy you are, the input shaft seals and prop shaft seals can be tough if you've never put seals in before. They gotta go in straight.The shifter o-ring can also be fun if you've never done one. The thing is....the LU comes off easy, so why fix it till its broke....<br /><br /><br />A humble Heinz 57
Schematic, just got little concerned about color of oil,no water i put in jar and let it settle , i changed brands of L/U oil last year maybe thats it,looks like split pea soup
Again it could be water. Marine LU oil mixes with water and can look like pea soup or eventually a milkshake. Drain, refill, replace screw gaskets, try again....I like to see it look like a good brand of whiskey!!<br />Some oils are darker, but you still should be able to see through them. Pea soup sounds like water. One last thing. Too heavy a oil will cause foaming. Be sure to use the recommended weight of oil. I don't like 90w as i've seen it foam in cold applications. You guys would probably never see that down south. <br /><br />But thats just me......<br /><br /><br />
I just changed oil on my newly bought Evinrude 40. It was black as motor oil from a Diesel truck and bad smelling. Is anything wrong. There was no sign of shavings of metal fragments and it was shiny, but BLACK.<br /><br />Is it just very old ?
Black CAN be a sign of underfilled and overheated, or just plain old. Change it more often.....Did it seem underfilled? How much did you get out as compared to what you put in....
It was top filled. Just bought the motor. I dont think the previous owner serviced it much, he didnt have a clue about mechanic. Guess it must have been old as you suggested. Thanks.
Schematic first of all keep that cold air up your way, what size are the threads on the L/U fill plugs , maybe i can make somthing to put air test on L/U
3/8 NC.......warmed up today -5c sure miss the lake....only got to go 3 feet through the ice to get to it!!!<br /><br />I used an old plug, but if I was to do it again, I'd get a allen head machine screw, drill a hole through it and silver solder or braze a spur hose fitting on it....
Yo chumbucket<br /><br />No matter what method you choose, be sure you have a good sealing surface for the gasket, or you'll be creating more leaks....<br /><br />
Schematic Thanks i had old 25 L/U in basement , checked treads 3/8 -16 like you said , i am retired so i got time to do this work, once in awhile i get a honey-do list!!!!!!!!! thanks
Hey chumbucket:<br />Forgot to mention a little trick..... when you pressure up the gear box, mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap to a pint of warm water. Pour this mix wherever you suspect a leak.(all gaskets, seals and o-rings) On the outside of course! Don't be cheap with it....pour lots. Then look for bubbles. It pick a leak out pronto!!! (check your fitting too) You must have the gear box empty of oil...If you got lots of time, let it drain a day before testing.<br /><br />good fishin!
10-15psi is enough. If its going to leak, it'll leak with that. Pull her down all you can for the vacuum test.(somewhere around 28"HG) if she leaks in, but not out,squirt oil around gasketed areas and seal areas while watching gauge. When you hit the leaking area, it will slow down the leak. <br /><br />happy leak testing!!
