LS-13 sailboat rot repair

ronney

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Jul 9, 2002
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Hi guys I purchased a old LS-13' sailboat that I need some advice on. As you can see in the pics the support board or furring strip is completely rotted out inside the cracked fiberglass. This boat originally had a wood slat floor. The short side strips were design to support the floor. After I cut out the old strips and sand and prep the the floor will it be necessary to replace the short side blocks? I will not be replacing the slotted floor. The original furring strip that runs from the bow to stern looks like it was a piece of 1x4 material covered in glass. I plan on using epoxy and glass cloth when I replace it. What are my options of materials to replace the board with, such as wood (what kind?), composite etc. Whats the best method to attach it to the boat before glassing over it? One last question, Anyone know what the ropes running the length of the board are for? I know this isn't rocket science, but I want it to last another 50 years. Thanks!
 

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GA_Boater

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Sorry for the double post. Can this one be removed? Thanks

Too late, the other one got the ax due to this topic the photos were accessible and in the first one, they were not.;)
 
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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Welcome to iBoats!!

I'm not a "Windy" boat guy but glass work is fairly generic. You'll need to grind/sand the old glass down to clean fresh glass (should be kinda pinkish in color) You'll want it to be at least 3" away from the edges of the wood all the way around. I'd use 3/4" ext. Grade plywood and coat it with 2-3 coats of epoxy. Use thickened epoxy to glue it to the deck. Use cabosil to thicken the epoxy to the consistency of mayonnaise. and then fillet the edges so the glass will lay down over the edges more easily. Use a plastic spoon to form the coved fillets. I'd then use a couple of layers of 4oz e-glass to encase the wood in and run the first layer out 1 1/2 inches onto the hull. The second layer would extend out the full 3 ". You'll finish by sanding and fairing and then painting or gelcoating. If you use West Systems epoxy you can gelcoat over their epoxy with good results. If not and you want to gelcoat then you might want to consider using Polyester resin for your repairs. If Paint will be your final finish then epoxy IS the way to go for sure. If it were me I'd replace all the wood while I was at it. I have NO idea what the ropes are for.



Good luck with your project!
 
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gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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14,605
Oh yes that usual rotted wood everywhere. Not unusual to see on these forums. But you have to try and visualize the quality boat in the end of this project. It can look and work for decades to come by following the experienced folks' advice on here... WOG above made some good suggestions. Follow his lead and keep us updated with many pictures along the way...
 

ronney

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Jul 9, 2002
Messages
11
No Title

Thanks for the replies, I got all the wood cut out today. I was amazed that there was not any solid wood left! The fiberglass underneath was solid. Do you think I need to replace the small side pieces or just the main strip down the center? They were there originally to support a slatted floor and were not connected to the main center piece. I have no plans to replace the floor. I have been given the suggestion of replacing the main center piece with ext plywood or a piece of Douglas-Fir. What would be the advantages and disadvantages of each? I will be using epoxy and glass clothe for the repair. I will keep yall up to date on the repairs. I?m sure I will have more questions. Thanks!
 

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fuzzeywiggler

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Feb 17, 2008
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Looks like your about to get itchy☺

The side pieces don't look structural you should be fine to leave them out. I'm not sure about what wood will be best for the job. I have only used exterior ply in the past and is commonly used on here. I think what ever holds screws the best will last the longest for you.
 

Woodonglass

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Either choice of wood will work. Since you're not replacing the slatted floor why are you putting ANY of the wood back in? It doesn't appear to serve any purpose other than stringers to attach the slatted floor. If you do decide to go ahead and put the long piece back down then Doug Fir is perfectly fine and my recommendations for installation are in post #5
 

fuzzeywiggler

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Feb 17, 2008
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He's gotta mount some rigging hardware somehow.


I'm not sure, there is a chance the mast ties into this too.
 

Woodonglass

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Well Alrighty then!!! Another example of the Old Dumb Okie Striking OUT!!! Like I said I'm NOT a "Windy" boat kinda Guy!!!:D:eek: Good Catch Fuzzy!!!
 

ronney

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Jul 9, 2002
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Thanks guys, i think I will just use a piece of 1x4 Fir since it;s readily available. The Mast and other hardware is attached to this piece. I dont think I will replace the side pieces.though. Thanks guys, yall are the best!
 
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fuzzeywiggler

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Feb 17, 2008
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357
Ya these SaIL powered units have a weird way of turning the prop!

What are your plans for mounting hardware?
 

ronney

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Jul 9, 2002
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I am planning on drilling over size holes for the screws and filling with cabosil thickened epoxy. What do you think?
 
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