Manuel Battery Switch

[garboyl]

when running should I have my battery switch set to battery1- battery2 - or all?

 

[glenn property of pam]

depends on the boat and battery set up. The battery are set up in banks for a reason but with out knowing all the info there no way to tell you how to run it. If you want to use it before you get a answer then run it on battery 1.
list the type of boat, banks of batteries, type of charger and when it will be used, type of motor, how you plan to use the boat.

 

[sam am I]

Typically, you'll "run" in the "all" position 99% of time as to try to stay topped off on both w the other 1%(in my case) of forgetting not being beer related.:facepalm:

So, I got a computer to remember for me now, works much better when the 1% migrates to 99%, due to thirst of course.

 

[glenn property of pam]

sam on a inboard cruiser 99% may be true. On a boat with a outboard and a trolling motor then 99% of the time you never run with the switch in "all"

 

[bruceb58]

The problem with running it in both is you may forget and drain both batteries.

best thing to do is to get an ACR so that you just leave it on 1 or 2 and both batteries charge.

 

[sam am I]

sam on a inboard cruiser 99% may be true. On a boat with a outboard and a trolling motor then 99% of the time you never run with the switch in "all"

Then either I've been running my outboard's batteries wrong for the last 20 some years? or I'm/all OB's are 1%'ers and "never" run in "all"? Hmmm, gotta say I'd disagree given all the OB's w gas trolling I see in my parts, but perhaps OB's w lectrics trolling motors, sure, I'd agree in that respect. What's your point thou? Does OP even have a OB or I/O?, let alone debating this over the type of trolling motor he never stated he has, gas or lectric?...........as I stated, "typically"

 

[glenn property of pam]

that last post was not meant to sound like I was disagreeing with you sam. Most outboards have such a low amp rating that its not worth changing the switch to "all" and will do nothing other than cause the banks to balance when switched. My outboard is 12amps at wot which half is probably used by the motor, gauges, etc. The left over amps per hour just about replaces what the starter motor used. My max run is 20-30 mins at wot. if I troll (electric) for a few hours then switch to "all" then the starter battery will try to balance with the trolling battery thus I will be draining my starter battery before the engine starts. (switching while running is a no-no unless the switch is proven not to disconnect during the transition)
It really depends on the boat but I think that until we know its safer to run on bank A the worst that can happen is back B will go flat.

+1 on using a acr

 

[Silvertip]

Determining what dual battery switch setting you need to use should not be such a mystery. Simply set the switch to the battery that has seen the most use prior to your next run. Keep in mind a starting battery in good condition will start an engine many dozens of times before it will fail. In the good old days before engine generators, outboards typically started all summer long without being recharged - perhaps a time or two worst case. That does assume the engine is properly tuned and you know how to start it without cranking the be-jeepers out of it. Therefore there is no rush to top it off. Generally it will be the house battery that is taking the beating. So the logic is simple -- send the available charge (whatever that is) to the most depleted battery. If your second battery is for a trolling motor and the engine alternator output is limited, you need an onboard charger. You will never top off that battery in even a moderate run back to the dock.