MarineTex for these screw holes?

fishinAK1

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
18
Found about 12 of these screw holes in my new/used boat. above the h20 line, but in the splash zone.

currently filled with some sort of caulk (sikaflex?)

should I drill out and fill with MarineTex? Do I have to overlap the good glass much?

thanks for any and alll input!!!!
 

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osborn159

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
383
Re: MarineTex for these screw holes?

if they are above the water line, marinetex will work, i would get a small abrasive wheel, or countersink bit and dish each b4 filling, sand flush,buff the scuffs out.
ive used that stuff to fix some pretty bad holes/cracks in my boats over the years.
good luck, D
 

saildan

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
264
Re: MarineTex for these screw holes?

Found about 12 of these screw holes in my new/used boat. above the h20 line, but in the splash zone. ...currently filled with some sort of caulk (sikaflex?)
Couple-o-things -

Unlikely your bullet holes are structural so for a seamless repair my idea is a fiberglass fill with a topping of gelcoat paste and a wet-sand & buff to compound them smooth with the surrounding area.

That caulk may have screwed up things some because it and the surface it's adhered to won't hold anything else. Meaning it has to go and a little sanding may be required to expose unadulterated fiberglass.

Marine-Tex is a pre-mixed epoxy. Epoxy adhesive mixed with a thickener additive to create a paste or putty. Not too different from the A-B epoxy in a tube you find at the hardware, only formulated for boat repairs.

Epoxy is a good patch material, but it isn't UV resistant. So, alone - over time - it will yellow and crack. Marine paint fixes that, but then you have paint dots.

I'd do a proper fiberglass hole repair, filling most of the thickness with resin thickened with a filler like cabosil or even milled fibers. The last bit, about the thickness of a dime at most, I'd fill with gelcoat paste. Once the gelcoat is in, tape over the spot to hold it from sagging and to reduce the amount of finish sanding needed.

Sand down to the surrounding surface then compound and polish to blend for near invisibility.
 
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